this may help

First off what refrigerant are you using, is it a 502 equivealant, either or a pump down would work, with a A419 controller in space,but the readout part would be installed outside of box as it doesnt like moisture at all.Also install a cpr valve in suctionline so as compressor doesnt load up on start up or after defrost cycle.Also a suction line accumulator, just in case of flood back .

 

yes, pump down systems r still being used. look at you pt chart to set low pressure set points. installing a WIF isnt like installing a split system in a house. You have to install and wire in a deforst control, select a head pressure control for low ambient temp etc...

 

Hey guys,

New to the refrigeration game, I haven't even looked at one of these things since school. That was 12 years ago. I am installing a walk in freezer and I would like to know what you guys are setting them at and controlling them with. Are we still using low pressure controls and pumping these things down, or has technology got something better? If so what are we setting them at?

I hope it is the same or close to it.

Setting them at the store - usually ground level.

Controlling them with AC current.













I'm just messin' with ya...................kinda.



There are too many questions for me to even think about listing here in order for one of us to begin to point you in the right direction.

What you are asking of one of us here is equivalent to asking a surgeon what the best approach is in removing one's own spleen.

The more specifics you give, the better response you will receive.

 

here's 2 suggestions

a real neat Free Installation manual to download
http://www.heatcraftrpd.com/resources/wiringdiagrams/H-IM-64L.pdf

a real neat Free Refrigeration manual to download
http://www.heatcraftrpd.com/resources/wiringdiagrams/H-ENGM0806.pdf

 

Ok I have specific questions now. Thanks for the quick replies last night.

I looked at the job today, I have pics attached. It is just a cooler, so no door heater. The evap will mount with all thread and washers I believe. The condensing unit is about 15' above the evap, so I think I should use a trap on the suction? The unit has an electronic expansion valve, so no solenoid needed. As far as I know the only wiring will be from the stat to the expansion valve, an of course the line voltage for the condenser and the evap unit.

The next problem I have is that the room I am putting this thing into is only ONE INCH!!! bigger then the box itself. I measured so many times, I think the only way I am going to be able to put the ceiling grid in is to do the front wall last. Look at the over hang on the front, nice, and the sprinkler was an added bonus. What do you guys think?

 

Look at the over hang on the front, nice, and the sprinkler was an added bonus. What do you guys think?

Cha-ching! $$$

Jabs

 

OK, you have yourself a Beacon system. Microprocessor controlled equipment. All your controls are pre-mounted, all you have to do is run a low voltage cable between evap and condensing unit. The unit comes with a very concise installation manual, read it carefully! This is a different animal and you need to have a good understanding of it's operation before installing and starting.

Your question concerning the p trap is also addressed in the manual, but I would definitely put one in.

Edit:, more reading for you.
http://www.thecoldstandard.com/products/overview.asp?pid=29

http://www.heatcraftrpd.com/resources/install/H-IM-79D.pdf

 

1) when a box is designed, I always undersize by 2" for assembly, to many crooked walls, and they provide all kinds of trim to hide the gap at the end

2) snap all your lines with a string for the "track", "channel" or "screed" depending on brand and you can shoot it down if its concrete with a hilti

3) did you read the instructions? yes you will have a trap at the evap, are the accesories pre installed or came loose in their boxes?

4) you may want to get the first half assembled and the set roof panels on top floating loose, do the math so you dont have to take them apart and I hope the roof is "cams" not "lags", cause you have no room do you on top?

5)cali we have sprinkler heads in the boxes, do you have to get them in your location / state?

 

Listening to you talk about how tight it is reminds me of jobs i did years ago when i did straight refer work.

I did one in an old elevator shaft in an old building in downtown Boston about 10 years ago. Upscale joint with a cigar room out back. It was on South street near South station ,Oscars.
the very last piece of the ceiling was a trap door.
I've done quite a few ,that was all home made from old panels. But I have done quite a few new ones . some with Cams and a few that were strips that were screwed.
Don't ask me anything about sizing. I never had to do that. quite a few I had to figure out they were sized right ,and that was not easy. Had to ask questions to too many people.
Good Luck. It aint all that hard. If it is sized and installed right. A cooler is even easier. On more that one occation I had to tell the electrician how to wire the clock and the evap.**** ,when I think about it,I have also had to explain to an electrian how to wire a T 87 cool only at one point.
good luck anyway,you know what your doing.

 

tell them to call in a sprinkler guy and drop that head somewhere else

where it is needed more!

 

tell them to call in a sprinkler guy and drop that head somewhere else

Yeah, right. You'd have better luck catching lightning in a bottle than getting a sprinklerfitter to work with ya

 

Yeah I pulled off the job. It was good for me to see it though. Thank godness it is cams. I don't mind a sprinkler if it is put in after the fact. I was confused wit the two extra evap fans, until I realized they were for a salad bar I am doing? I'm like a salad bar, now I have to ask the boys about this.
I really appriciate all the info. and I will keep you guys posted.

 

It's glorified gas piping isn't it?