You have very little control with air acetylene, and it's loud. I like to use it for soldering large pipe, but not brazing.

 

I have a Turbo Torch, air-acetylene rig. I don't do a ton of brazing. Mostly just quick stub connections or changing a purge unit or something. I have an A-4, A-5 and an A-14 tip. They have done everything from 1/4" to 2 1/8". If I have to do multiple joints over say 1 5/8" or so, I break out the oxy-acetylene rig with my rosebud.

No complaints with mine after many years of use.

 

https://www.rogerssupply.com/ASSETS/DOCUMENTS/CMS/EN/TurboTorch_252-03P_Catalog.pdf

Page 6 has the chart with all the sizes...

However, stick to oxy... Rosebud tip, Captain Hook tip, concentrated areas of heat, no burn marks on filter driers, accumulators... It's just better than a b-tank. In my opinion.

 

That is a very helpful chart.


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I have a Turbo Torch air/acet. You need to wear ear protection.


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Thats the main reason I never got one.

But, I like to have options, and for small work, a co-worker uses his turbo acetylene with a little MC tank. I like the smallness of it. And most of the time Im brazing in weird space cramped areas.

Maybe I will do some looking on craigslist for an el-cheapo set up just to have.


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Unless I am working in Very confined space I almost exclusively use a Turbo-Torch. Which is what you are describing. Up to about 1 5/8" the big tip will do it - it's smaller than my thumb. <g> For smaller stuff - say; up to 7/8" you want the tip which is about 5/16" or 3/8" diameter - I don't know the tip-size numbers off the top of my head. I use it on an MC tank for service and a single-system installation.

Prestolite used to make a screw-in "Swirl Tip" for their soldering torch handles. These were cheaper but are (were?) slightly less-hot and a less controllable flame - or so I thought.

I use a Mapp gas torch for all soldering and low temp silver; such as Stay-Brite, Brigit, and the others.

I have lugged around, and up, and down, just about all the B and oxygen tanks that I care to handle. <g>

PHM
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Turbo torch flame, with the proper tip, wraps fully around the joint to be brazed. When the copper turns shiny, apply the bent brazing rod to the (cooler) back side of the joint and you will see the brazing material flow and fill the front side of the joint. Done. No missed spots on the back side of the joint. Ever.
Loved it for 30 years or so.

 

I also almost exclusively use an air/acetylene turbo torch. I use the turbo torch kit TDLX2010B with the self igniting tip. I use the self lighting tip for everything up to 1 5/8" with no trouble. They do make larger tips for the torch that are not self lighting. For soldering I use mapp gas with self lighting tip.

 

I use this for up to 10 tons "pipe only" no massive valves or such near the joint. Up to 1.5", if I have to wet something then I get the oxy out. But for a 5 ton compr change it is all I need.
It is a my own kit sans the 2nd regulator with just a tank adapter.

Tx 504 503 - torch only is what I bought. Then Amazon has the fittings & hose

 

That is a propane torch from the looks of it. You use that to braze up to 1.5" ?

Solder sure, but braze?


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:couch:

 

Where can you get that metal torch shield

 

Rothemberger makes one for there propane torch.


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