There's nothing wrong with that boiler at all. The main consideration is proper sizing, don't oversize. Second consideration is the installer. Third would be availability of parts-mostly the control. The plant is located about an hour outside of Philadelphia.
The Riello burner parts are usually easy to get.
If you're going direct vent, the Riello BF5 is fine, but if chimney vent, the F3 would be better, depending on your heat loss.
Triple pass is the way to go over an oil-fired pinner every time. I think it's a re-badged older style Burnham MPO, looks the same on the inside.
Looking at the manual, I wouldn't pipe it the way they suggest--just not best practice.

 

SteveusaPA

Thanks for the quick reply

I'm just beginning this process and welcome any help I can get

The first Pro who came to give me a quote said he uses the Trio. I'm in Massachsetts and lots of Webb's around

Not sure what size since yet to see quote. I have forced hot water baseboard heating, 4 zones, a little over 3500 sq feet, a separate water heater but heated by boiler, gas not available, current one installed by prior owner in 1988 or so, and the following information in various spots on the unit. (I have no idea what most of the terms mean)

1. Burnham
2. TACO F3 cartridge circulator
3. Beckett RW3 oil burner model AFG AE 241870
4. Boiler number V-16A
5. DOE heating capacity MBH 192
6. Net IBR ratings: water MBH 1670 (the other boxes blank)
7. Firing rate ET on GPH 165
9. American Stabilis Inc switches

When I speak with Pros, what are some of the questions I should ask??

Thanks

 

http://www.trioboiler.com/

 

First thing is I would ask for a complete heat loss done for your home. If they say anything but 'yes', tell them thanks but no thanks.
Proper boiler sizing is a must or you will waste money, energy, and shorten the life of your boiler (if oversized), and never be comfortable (if undersized).
Also don't upsize the boiler for your domestic hot water (the indirect tank).
Keep in mind, most wont do a complete heat loss until they get the job (should take a good 3 hours to measure your whole house and input the data). That's fine, as long as they do it. Usually you can get a bid that says something like, "if the heat loss equals this many btu's, then we will use boiler x and this is the price, but if it needs this many btu's (bigger), then we will use boiler y and the price will be..."
Now in your case it looks like the Trio sizes by sections. Some boilers you can just change the firing rate, so the price would be the same for the boiler.
Everything else is fairly standard:
New, properly sized bladder type expansion tank
Low water cut-off
Outdoor reset.
Boiler protection for low return water temperature.
Piping is another matter. With 4 zones, you could end up with some short cycling, so if possible, maybe you can combine zones and control flow, but that really depends on how much you want to spend, and how much piping you want to get into.
Also, see if a contractor can show you a job they are currently working on right now. Pictures of beautiful jobs are nice, but seeing one that's going on might give you a better idea.
And, referrals from current jobs, or people you know that used the contractor.

 

STEVEusaPA

Thanks again

Will continue with more questions as they come up

With the heat loss survey. is there anything I could do in advance to make the job easier/quicker and have them in house less than 3 hours? Must actual house be looked at or can it be done from the house plans?

thnaks

 

If you have accurate plans, including elevations and can mark the r-value of walls, ceilings, windows, doors, that all helps immensely. Otherwise they have to (should) measure every room in the house.