Checked ecm module and its good

First: How did you determine this?

Second: Your profile states you are a Tech, so you need to be asking this question in the "Tech to Tech Chat - Residential" forum, and not this "AOP" forum. This forum is for homeowners to ask questions.

Click on the small black triangle near the bottom of your thread (near the like and dis-like tabs) and ask to have your thread moved to the correct forum. You will get more answers to your questions.

 

Trane Variable Speed Diagnosis

Have a trane system with a variable speed blower.

Checked ecm module with the ecm tester and its good

Ohmed the motor itself all three pegs read 11 so the motor is good

When starting the fan it will twitch forward then backward about an inch at a time then stop for a few seconds and try again.

Tried to boost it by hand and will only go through half of one revolution so I'm thinking its starting to lock up?

Fan is calling with 24 volts and has 240 power


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Have a trane system with a variable speed blower.

Checked ecm module with the ecm tester and its good

Ohmed the motor itself all three pegs read 11 so the motor is good

When starting the fan it will twitch forward then backward about an inch at a time then stop for a few seconds and try again.

Tried to boost it by hand and will only go through half of one revolution so I'm thinking its starting to lock up?

Fan is calling with 24 volts and has 240 power

At least we are now in the correct forum, but because you now have two threads going, still click on the small triangle I talked about in your thread in the AOP forum, and ask to have these two treads combined.

It gets really difficult when questions and answers are being posted in two different areas.

Now, back to my question: Please explain in detail how you determined the motor module was OK?

Please also post the model number of the unit in question.

 

Also, I do not have the model number handy

 

You need a module my friend.

 

Okay let's just for say act as if I put another new module in and return the present one under warranty and the issue continues what is the next step

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Also forgot to mention that I remember its a genteq eon


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If the motor does not spin freely, the bearings are gone. ECMs don't feel quite like PSCs when you give them a twirl - but they should spin easily and go around a few times.

 

There is testers available for ECM Motors that work pretty good that you can test the motor directly without the unit controller

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Should be able to pick up at your local Trane supply

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Lol yes

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Haha great just making sure before I spend the money

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Also as I stated above the module was tested with the ecm checker an old zebra universal that the boss has I was unsure about the tech mate.

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Is this a 16 pin or the new 5 pin module?

 

16 pin

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2 things

Is the motor grounded.

Did you ohm out the harness.

 

Motor is not grounded and ohmes out good

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Ohm pin to pin on the harness, one end to the other. Not the motor.

 

Conclusion of this:
Got new module with motor
First tried to replace the module again just to see and the problem continued.
The old motor ohmed out good and was not grounded.
The motor felt a little stiff and did not spin when spun by hand more than half revolution.
After replacing the motor everything fired up correctly.

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If you can take the motor apart. I bet you find the magnets are separating from the rotor and rubbing against the stator.

 

Left it at the shop if its there when I go back in I'll check it out

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Does anyone know the voltages Trane boards are supposed to put out on the 16 pin connector to verify the board is calling? I was hoping it would be in the unit manual but I didn't see it. 4TEE3F37B1000AA. Going back this morning on one with the same thing going on as OP except the motor isn't running. Omned out motor and it was fine. Found 12vdc between some pins between coming from the board but didn't have a troubleshooting guide to verify if it was the proper pins. Replaced module and nothing. A little embarrassing lol. Usually I always replace the motor and module at the same time but the customer wanted to try to pay less.

I'm pretty sure it's the motor but I would love to be able to test the board voltage so I don't replace the motor and have it not work again. Then it just looks like parts changing lol

 

Does anyone know the voltages Trane boards are supposed to put out on the 16 pin connector to verify the board is calling? I was hoping it would be in the unit manual but I didn't see it. 4TEE3F37B1000AA.l

I emailed you the only Trane ECM manual I have and know of.

 

I've asked repeatedly and been given no answer from IR

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Trane has a service manual with the voltages and PIN numbers listed. Not sure of the pub #.

 

That was exactly what I was looking for, thanks. It looks like the new module was receiving the proper control voltage but not turning the motor even though it ohms out fine. I'm thinking it has to be the motor unless Trane sent me a bad module.

 

I bought a tester years ago and never used it; I'm not even sure where it is.

If you have line voltage and any sort of control voltage, 24 volts, 9-12 AC or DC, 4 volts modulating, anything at all...on any of the pins; and the motor module spins freely and passes the winding to winding and winding to ground tests - it's a failed control module - as it will be in ninety something percent of the time.

Koch Air had an ECM class years ago and the guy used cheap 9 volt LEDS with long leads from Radio Shack to demonstrate that control voltage was present. If it lit up at all, blinked, got brighter and then softer...you had either 24 volts, 9-12, 4 volts modulating or what have you.

If the motor does not spin freely you replace both as the control module is sure to have suffered damage trying to make a bad motor module run. In eight years I've only had two that were the motor module...and they were clearly bound, with rust all over the magnets on one of them that is still sitting on my bench.

A VOM is all you need.

 

I had one about a month ago, rock back and forth but never dance. Didn't take the time to pull the mod and check winding. Ordered and new mod, went out and put it in, it did the same thing. Found a bad winding. Ordered a new motor but kept the mod. Put the new motor in. Same thing. Put the new mod on the new motor, purred like a 427 on race gas.

 

Trane tech support told me before to always replace both at the same time. From now on if a customer wants to try only doing half I'm still bringing both and returning a part if unneeded

 

So my initial diagnosis was correct

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Trane started telling us to always replace both. Claimed that one usually damages the other.

I’ve started noticing gentecs where the two aren’t even separable .


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I don't know how many mods that I have changed and the motor is running over 5 years.

 

Sounds like the module if the motor is spinning freeely. Rundawg has a very good point. Static is important because that's what kills an ECM quicker.

 

Module is bad. New motor and control board