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Thermostat options for Mitsubishi Mini Splits

16K views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  Hrdworkingacguy  
#1 ·
Hello,

I have three MSZ-FH12NA indoor units with three corresponding MUZ-FH12NA outdoor units. My house is about 1600sq ft split level, one per floor. They heat/cool the house without problem, the house is pretty tight. I live in New England. I've noticed when it is very cold in the winter the mini-splits do not heat effectively. At first I thought they weren't powerful enough but simply increasing the temp with the remote produced more heat, so it's not that the units can't handle it, it was something else.

After a lot of research I came across an article that I can't link here.. that validates the internal temp sensors aren't always very effective. Basically when adding the external MHK1 thermostat to to the CN105 port the unit changes it's behavior and seems to work more efficiently and maintain selected temp better. The internal temp sensors don't do a good job in extreme cold or extreme heat. I may have paid for these if reviews were even moderately favorable. Overall you don't get much functionality via the MHK1 and the interface/setup seems to be pretty garbage.

My next failed attempt (my own fault) was the FLAIR puck. Since the Mitsu units use crappy IR remotes I figured why not get a FLAIR since it's basically a universal remote with WiFi. Well that's all it is. I thought for some reason it would modulate temperature and act as an external tstat but I was wrong, my fault. Returned those.

Now I've come across two (kind of three) new options I didn't find before, the PAC-US444CN-1 (CN105 connector to add any 3rd party tstat) and the PAC-USWHS002-WF-1 (a WiFi interface for Mitsu Kumo Cloud)

Option 1 - three PAC-US444CN-1, three VPL24-210 for voltage and I'll have to pull the wires to another wall and get three smart thermostats. With this I'll have full control with wifi and external tstats. (I think?) +labor to install these. I'll have probably the most future proof option since I'll have tstat wiring.

Option 2 - three PAC-USWHS002-WF-1 @ and three external temp sensors PAC-USWHS003-TH-1 and I can use their proprietary Kumo Cloud software/app that doesn't have many reviews yet but I don't have to pull any wires and it's a little cheaper. + labor but I'm limited to mitsu's proprietary software which I'm fine with if it works good. Seems a little cheaper than Option 1 and the installer wouldn't have to pull tstat wires to another wall.

Option 3 - There are some people building their own CN105 connectors and wiring them to raspberry pi's with WiFi modules and temp sensors for under $25 but there would really be no user interface and probably flake out on me a lot, I'm not very interested but thought it was cool.

Why Mitsubishi is cool with selling this unit with IR remotes is beyond me but am I on the right page? Is my info correct, did I miss anything? For the love of god if I go with option 1 or 2 are my mitsu units going to truly be controlled by an external temp sensor? That's really my biggest concern. Maybe it's because I have low ceilings and these units are so close to them that they pool heat and misread the internal sensor, I'm not sure but it's definitely clear after three years that the internal temp sensor is dead wrong.
 
#2 ·
The ir controller just sends a setpoint to the air handler and it controls off of the air handlers internal return temp sensor. There is way more going on the just you ask it to be 70 and it runs to that and shuts off. There is a deadband of 1 degree c or 1.7 degrees f that when you get into it the unit backs off and coasts so it doesn't overshoot.

Every stat option for the most part will work like this. The exception is he tstat interface the PAC-US444-CN1. It changes the way the internal logic works of the indoor unit and just ramps up the exv and by extension the compressor based on time and distance from setpoint. I think the deadband is still in effect though.

My house has two S series units with smart ME t stats and it's never at setpoint. It will stop short a degree and a half due to the deadband. I just learned to live with it.

At the last DSG conference I was told Japanese people aren't as concerned with the temp being dead nuts on setpoint all day long and a 1 degree c offset is fine and acceptable.

Long story short the ir controller doesn't sense temperature, most stats work exactly the same because it's just (potentially) reporting a return temp to the unit for it to control To based on indoor unit control board logic, and the PAC-us444 is awful. :eek:
 
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#3 ·
Yea that's basically what I'm gathering. Good info on the deadband, that makes sense. On a cold day I can have the remote at 70 and my actual temp is about 64. But spring/fall I'm usually in line or pretty close. Same with a super hot day, I could have it at 70 and it'll be 74 or 75 if it's probably 95+ outside.

Any chance you could elaborate more on how the internal logic changes with the external tstat? What makes you say the PAC-US444 is awful? Have you heard about the Kumo Cloud interface at all? I'm hoping their kumo blu tooth temp sensor could work as the primary sensor.

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
For the most part with most external thermostats hooked up the logic is the same its just the source of the return/space temp changes to the Thermostat. In the indoor units there is a return sensor and a space set point. With a IR controller you tell the unit the space set point and there is nothing further the controller does until the next time you want to change something. The unit will control itself based on its internal logic. When you hook up a thermostat just the source of the room temperature changes and the tstat tells the indoor unit the same things the IR remote does(Vane position, fan speed, mode, ect).

When you use the PAC-US444 there is a Y1(low cool), Y2(High Cool), G(Fan), G1(Low fan), G2(Medium fan), G3(High fan), W1(Low Heat), and W2(High Heat). Lets say in low cool the EXV opens to 140 steps and refrigerant flows. the interface is going to keep dropping the set point over time to cause the EXV to open farther until the Y1 call goes away. In High cool it will open the EXV to 350ish steps and do the same thing. When Y2 goes away it will close the EXV back to the Y1 level and start dropping the set point. Its not exactly how the indoor units work normally and its sort of a "Hack" to provide a conventional thermostat option.

All of these devices PAC-US444, Kumo cloud, MAC333 with a simple MA or MHK1(On M Series) use CN105 for communication. P series has a TB15 terminal to hook up a wired stat. City Multi is different all together from M series. None of them are going to radically alter the operation except for the PAC-US444.

For what its worth I am a Diamond Service Group Member(DSG) for Mitsubishi and this stuff is super confusing to me and I take calls on it all day long. The best thing to do is look up you model # on www.mylinkdrive.com and/or check the controls section for the device you want to learn about...:eek:
 
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