As they say "Dye don't lie" but, it requires a return trip and it will forever get on your hands and tools when you gauge up. And obviously it won't help if the leak is in a location out of line of sight.

I would only use it was a last resort. In actual practice I almost never have a leak that I cannot find electronically as long as I take my time. I still keep a dye kit on my truck but, I have not used it in years.

 

Its a mess. I put some in a dehumidifier that I use in my house and it gets on everything.

Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech

 

I hear it works great for the first leak. The evidence remains and if there is another leak in the same area then it won’t help you at all because the area is already covered in florescent dye. A pain to clean up.

 

Good point.

 

And if you do use it, make sure you label the outside of the system somewhere that there is dye in it, for the next technician. Some of us don't like unannouced dye all over our hands and in our nice new gauge sets.....

 

I’m sure you know but I’ll just mention it anyways. You’ll need the flashlight and glasses.

It does work and is what most automotive mechanics use. It can get a little tricky if you have other things fluorescing under the light besides just the dye.

 

No mfg that I’m aware of will recommend it and most say any additives not used by the mfg will void warranty.

Who much is used? How many times? How compatible with internal components, oil & ref?
Must have visual access to any leak. Better off with good electronic detectors.

 

Dye is oil. Spectronics dye is the cat's meow for certain leaks. Easily removed with brake cleaner.

 

You guys have voiced what I’ve always thought, but I wanted to see if I was missing something. I think I’ll just stay away from it.

 

I have a very strong feeling that dye ruined one of my micron gauges. I didn’t realize it untill it was too late. Micron gauge worked on that system and the very next morning it was all over the place doing odd stuff, that very next system was 100% new, copper and all. I cleaned the sensor but it never worked again. I don’t have any way of proving that’s what did it but it sure seems like it did. Have anyone who uses dye had this happen to them or think it’s just coincidence?

 

I wouldn't be a surprise if the dye was accompanied by leak seal and that would make a lot more sense that the leak seal would have killed it.

Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech

 

For those who use fluorescent dye, what cleaner do you use that works best at removing it (so that you can see a new leak)? The cleaner that came with the original dye kit smells a lot like 409 or Fantastik.

 

"...if there is another leak in the same area then it won’t help you at all because the area is already covered in florescent dye."
Yeah, it's a pain to clean up, but if you do a good enough job cleaning it, you can detect a new leak at or near the old leak. On the plus side (once the dye is in the system), it may show you where the leak is as soon as you take the covers off the unit (and put on your glasses and UV light).

 

To reiterate: the UV glasses are essential to help distinguish glowing from the UV dye versus other things which also fluoresce. I didn't realize that, at first, when I tried to use a dye system.

 

"... it requires a return trip"
Maybe not. Depending on the size of the system, and the size/placement of the leak, you may get results by running it for a 1/2 hour.

 

It does work well to find leaks in Evaps or ac coils. I'd recommend normal electronic and big blue first but there been times I couldn't find a leak, and with dye I find it

 

Resi guys are all against dye, Refer heads are all for dye, and Commercial guys are split. I have/do all three, and yes there is a time and place for dye. But do not let it become a go to crutch/excuse for being lazy. I have yet to see anything that was "gummed up" or wrecked by dye. But on most systems dye is not the answer, its the hail mary. If your electronic leak detector does not work, you may need another tool, no one leak detector seems to find every leak. I have a heated, and infrared, and an ultrasonic.

 

I've used this a few times. That's what they make us use at work. I've only found one leak out of about 5 times on different systems. We use the glasses and flashlight, plus an old comforter to cover areas that we inspect. I think techs use it often. I have on occasion seen the residual dye on my gauges. I personally do not like the stuff.

 

No problems on my end….and I use the UV dye quite a bit and follow the mfg recommended instructions

 

 

I really don't want to use brake cleaner on my gauges especially on the inside but to each his own.

 

One thing I think if you're using that you should be marking the unit so that the next guy will know and not add more.

"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I am tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we are gonna do it lets do it right.
All opinions subject to change without notice.

 

I'll pass. Never saw the need in 48 years. Usually used by inexperienced.

Not immediate usually requiring callbacks, only for visually accessible areas, not tested or recommended by majority of manufacturer's, no evaluation on system effects if used excessively, requires stripping insulation, does not take the place of other methods...

 

I'm talking residential here. I never had to put die in a system in 20+ years in the field. Its not needed...