HVAC-Talk: Heating, Air & Refrigeration Discussion banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Soft Soldering 410a Linesets

1 reading
Jump to Latest
61 - 78 of 78 Posts
#62 ·
We recently had a 900 lb. loss of R-22 at a supermarket, due to a heat-distress cracked elbow on a 5/8 liquid line. This elbow had just been replaced due to a leak a few months before. (It was noted in the log book).

Not a problem when you use Stay-Brite #8
 
Save
Like Like
Discussion starter · #64 ·
Wow I am surprised at at the many different techniques people have and have been taught, definitely do not think brazing is dirty or lazy, never had a problem with a braze joint, only time I dont braze is when working with a steel discharge line or some scroll compressors with steel fittings, most are copper plated but I still use silver solder on steel fittings, or if I need something with a lower melting temp like on a txv, other wise I will always braze copper to copper, just how I was taught and never had a problem, plus its a little hard to "Solder" a leak, sometimes even brazing a big leak that cannot be replaced is tricky without filling the fitting/line with braze.

Interesting to hear all of the different techniques that are used in this trade, glad I had some good teachers!

Thank you for all of the posts!
 
#65 ·
Toddbrewster said:
its a little hard to "Solder" a leak, sometimes even brazing a big leak that cannot be replaced is tricky without filling the fitting/line with braze.
Click to expand...
Not at all....in fact, over a 30 year career, I've had far better luck reparing leaks on today's thin copper coils with SB8 and some stranded wire, than I've had trying to braze it. Thin copper burns out a bigger hole before you can get the sil-fos to flow properly.

I've used stranded wire, and/or copper fittings cut length-wise in half, along with SB8, to fix many a leak....
 
Save
Like Like
#67 ·
John Markl said:
Not at all....in fact, over a 30 year career, I've had far better luck reparing leaks on today's thin copper coils with SB8 and some stranded wire, than I've had trying to braze it. Thin copper burns out a bigger hole before you can get the sil-fos to flow properly.

I've used stranded wire, and/or copper fittings cut length-wise in half, along with SB8, to fix many a leak....
Click to expand...
Dang! Still learning new after 30 some years. I braze holes like the one I accidently made in the condensor using a screw longer than what came out.:gah: I'd love to see some tutorials on these techniques in the odd event I run into one that's a challenge.
 
#68 ·
Glennhvac said:
Dang! Still learning new after 30 some years. I braze holes like the one I accidently made in the condensor using a screw longer than what came out.:gah: I'd love to see some tutorials on these techniques in the odd event I run into one that's a challenge.
Click to expand...
Brass screws soldered into holes works well too...:grin2:
 
Save
Like Like
#69 ·
I have been an HVACR instructor for 19 years and worked in the field before that and ever since. My curriculum says that I teach brazing and soldering. When done correctly, soft solder is just as reliable as brazing. During brazing, the copper is heated to over 1300°F. At this temperature copper softens the tube adjacent to the brazed joint. The low operating temperature of tin/silver solder does not overheat the tube so it retains its strength. Flux is not an issue if done correctly. I have actually switched soldering over the last 8 years or so with no problems yet. The sheer strength of solder is over 10,000 psi. and with a high side pressure over 400 for 410A the solder will hold. The actual tensile strength is over 14,000. The tensile strength of 15% rods is in the 30,000 range, so yes it is twice as strong as soldering but with higher temperatures. Copper becomes brittle at 800 to 900 degrees Fahrenheit. It will melt at 1600 to 1900 Fahrenheit. So either choice works, either choice is suitable. It really boils down to technique and if the proper procedures are followed. To each his own.
are followed.
 
#70 ·
Falvey said:
I have been an HVACR instructor for 19 years and worked in the field before that and ever since. My curriculum says that I teach brazing and soldering. When done correctly, soft solder is just as reliable as brazing. During brazing, the copper is heated to over 1300°F. At this temperature copper softens the tube adjacent to the brazed joint. The low operating temperature of tin/silver solder does not overheat the tube so it retains its strength. Flux is not an issue if done correctly. I have actually switched soldering over the last 8 years or so with no problems yet. The sheer strength of solder is over 10,000 psi. and with a high side pressure over 400 for 410A the solder will hold. The actual tensile strength is over 14,000. The tensile strength of 15% rods is in the 30,000 range, so yes it is twice as strong as soldering but with higher temperatures. Copper becomes brittle at 800 to 900 degrees Fahrenheit. It will melt at 1600 to 1900 Fahrenheit. So either choice works, either choice is suitable. It really boils down to technique and if the proper procedures are followed. To each his own.
are followed.
Click to expand...
You realize this thread is over 10 years old!
 
#76 ·
Well, regardless of it being an old thread, the information is timeless. There are several well written posts in the thread which I may never have seen had it not been 'resurrected'.

Thanks Falvey
 
61 - 78 of 78 Posts
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
About this Discussion
77 Replies
38 Participants
Last post:
pecmsg
HVAC-Talk: Heating, Air & Refrigeration Discussion
posts
5M
members
275K
Since
2000
The #1 HVACR Community
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
AOP Residential HVAC/Refrigeration(Beenthere Zone) General Discussion Tech to Tech Chat - Residential Controls Refrigeration & Ice Making