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Q? 0606 W Manitowoc - "reset button" ?

37K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  Poodle Head Mikey  
#1 ·
I have walked past the machine but never worked on it. Customer called and said:

"No ice in the bar ice machine bin this morning."

Why did you wait until 4:30P to bring that to my attention?

Uhhhh . . . I don't know.

What have you been doing for ice all day?

I don't know - we have ice at the bar.

Where did it come from? Is there ice in the bar ice machine bin now?

Let me look - yes there is.

What was done to get the machine to make ice?

Someone pressed the reset button. Now we have ice I guess. You better look at it.
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So my question for all you ice machine wizards and gurus is:

What does this reset button do? Is it just high pressure lock out? Or does it reset the lockouts on the board?

Can you give me a hint? I'll go tomorrow but I am curious now about just what they have done. And if it would even have 'fixed' the machine. Or was it just random chance that got it working again? <g>

Thanks!
 
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#2 ·
That would have to be a QR0601W, QD603W or a QY0605W machine depending on the cube size.

The Q-Series came in either a manual or auto-reset HP control. The manual reset is a red button on the bulkhead panel near the upper RH corner of the evaporator. That's the only real "reset button" they do.

The other possibility is they learned how to turn the machine off and on again to reset a control board safety limit shutdown. The way to tell if the machine has shut down on a safety limit is to switch it off and on watching the harvest light for the one or two flash code, indicating either excessive freeze time or excessive harvest time.

Being a bar, my educated guess is you'll see a safety limit #2 and a lot of slime buildup which typically causes premature harvests by fouling the thickness probe.

Here's a link to the Manitowoc service manual download page:

http://www.manitowocice.com/Service/ServiceManuals.asp

Have fun Mikey! :)
 
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#4 ·
That would have to be a QR0601W, QD603W or a QY0605W machine depending on the cube size.

The Q-Series came in either a manual or auto-reset HP control. The manual reset is a red button on the bulkhead panel near the upper RH corner of the evaporator. That's the only real "reset button" they do.
If it has a manual reset it is kind of hidden behind the water distribution tube. If the machine stopped by the pressure control alone there will be no code stored in the board but it if a code was stored before a high head or power off to the unit it will still be stored in the board. I would not listen to much to the "someone reset" and start from scratch. Usually when the say they reset it - it means they hit every button, turned every knob, reset the breaker and started hitting it their fist then presto it's working again.
 
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#5 ·
what reset?

there is a high head pressure reset. if this is tripping need to check conderser coill on air cool, conderser fan motor, is unit over charger? is water cool the water conders valve water conder tubs could be mess up? need a little more if before i can help you out any more. mantiwoc has a web sit that you can down load manullaly that have a lot of good info to help repaire the machin go to mantiwoc.com and select you type of machine for instans if a Q machine go to theQ area the first leter of the machine in the type it is. good luck. Ice Man
 
#6 ·
Ice Man -

It's water cooled. And I have been so busy playing catching up that I'm not sure that I haven't overlooked the actual problem.
Earlier last week I spent six hours cleaning this thing. Thick gooey brown slime was in, on, and around everything. Those concealed areas behind the edges of the evap were packed with it. Behind the evap too. The pump intake, every hose, etc. Just when you would think it was clean enough to run cleaner through - another piece would flop out from somewhere.

It's running high-sulfur well water. The "maintenance man" had put a flare by flare union in - in place of the Everpure rack. "The unit wasn't getiing water".

Ya think! <g>

I replaced the cartridges and cleaned the down stream lines. Then the water valved plugged again. Turned out the Everpure rack was defective - always bypassing the cartridges.

New rack. Water valve plugs up again. Check it - clean. WTF?

Turns out the water solenoid would sometimes open all the way - sometime half, sometimes not at all.

Great! So install a new water valve.

Then some water leaks. Old copper lines - cracked at a flare. Plus it's twisted and kinked. So I ran new copper. Changed all the compression fittings to flare. Start it up again with gauges hanging on - Justin Case. R-404. Suction starts at 45 or so and slowly drops during the freeze cycle. Head runs about 200 lbs.

Sequences, freezes quickly, then - it never lights the harvest light - bridge is 1/4" - wtf?

Must be the ice sensor. Ohms out fine. Ground the IC - lights and then pops the unit right into defrost. Huh? How can that be?

Check it again. Sensor is open. What?

Pull the sensor and find the wires wire-nutted in a bundle of tape. One is cut off. Still - it should work on one side.

But I trim the wiring, lose the tape bundle, rewire it all - sensing is fine. Ice too thin. Adjust 1/4" turn - bridge is too thick. Adjust 1/4 turn - ice is too thin.

Find a screw missing for the distribution tube - when I adjust the thickness screw the tube moves all over the place. <g> I am positive I re-installed the tube with both screws. <g>

Then it starts running OK. Makes a batch a little too thin. Adjust the screw, make sure the tube is in place. I go to the bathroom. Come back and then unit is not running - bottom red light on the board is steadily flashing.

Just then the barmaid pops her head in - time to go - closing in five minutes.

So I have no idea what I will find next. I meant to pull my Q manual and see what that ligt even is but I came home and drank some red wine with the little woman instead.

It's sunny today so I'm thinking about stuffing some tools in my tank bag and riding the Bonneville over there today to see how it's running.

Oh - as for the reset - I think it's only for high pressure. They just push it routinely. But I don't think it is actually 'clicking' - they just depress the red rubber cover. What "resets" the machine is that they turn the ICE-OFF-CLEAN switch off before they push the "reset" button. <g>

BTW: Did I tell you they were adding water with pitchers for a while? <g>
 
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#18 ·
Must be the ice sensor. Ohms out fine. Ground the IC - lights and then pops the unit right into defrost. Huh? How can that be?

Check it again. Sensor is open. What?

Pull the sensor and find the wires wire-nutted in a bundle of tape. One is cut off. Still - it should work on one side.
Single wire probe on Q? I know 2 wire should work in a pinch but you should start get it out of the mix.
 
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#8 ·
Had to - the barmaid kept bringing me beers

She would never stay to let me show here what I was doing back in the store room so I guess she just thought I looked thirsty.
 
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#9 ·
ok

sounds like not getting water to the macxhine and the conderser water feed vale could be stop upo with that crud may need to take the coil off dissable the water feed and clean and reassable if that possiab, or may need a new on some molders you can dissable and clean. some you cant. sound like no water going into the conderser caussing hi.head.sound like you on the right track. good luck.IceMan
 
#10 ·
The head pressure is actually a bit low

At 200 psi

The ice water and the condenser water piping are completely separate. I've got good water flow now for ice making and the head pressure is not high - so I'm thinking that the condenser is not clogged.

The red harvest light blinking (I just read the manual cover-to-cover <g>) means that it's either taking too long to freeze (which doesn't seem to fit - as it makes ice in about ten minutes) or the harvest is taking too long.

The Pressure Chart gives the normal head pressure as: 230 lbs. Maybe the defrost takes too long because of less hot gas? Although it doesn't seem to me that 30 pounds lower head pressure would have much effect in that regard.

And it made ice like crazy - until I cleaned it. <g> So I lean away from a refrigeration issue and more towards a water flow issue.

Hey! Maybe I cleaned all the nickel off the evap? <g>

I'm tired of speculating - I'm going to go over there right now and see what I can find. My little woman's "back hurts" anyway and I'm out of beer. <g>
 
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#13 ·
I'm back again - the young fat girl was at the bar <g>

Found some things -

The 'fault code' light was two-blinks - "excess harvest time".

The head pressure was a bit low - 200 at startup.

They say that when they push the red button - it does Not click.

But they always push the red button AND turn the toggle switch from ICE to OFF to ICE again. So they are probably just resetting the "long freeze" or "long harvest" lock-out. And not the HP control.

But - while I was there I noticed that the water pressure varies routinely from 20 to 40 lbs. AND, if women use the Ladies Room when the water pressure is 20 - it quickly drops to close to zero as they are coming out the door.

AND - the head pressure starts to climb. The highest it ever got while I was watching was 270, but who knows what happens when I am not there?

With the water pressure at 25 lbs. I set the water valve for 240 lbs. head pressure at start-up.

This made the harvest time about three minutes.

Ice formation is perfectly even across the evap.

Bridge thickness is now just about 1/8".

I had a few Blue Moons and it made perfect ice the whole time. We'll see what the morning brings I guess.
 
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#15 ·
Water leaking by what? The condenser water valve?

Hmmmm . . . it's really early - how can I check that? Isn't there water going down the drain from the purge anyway?

Let me think here -

Hey; what should the head pressure drop down to during defrost? Any idea?

I wonder why cleaning the machine made this problem appear?

What am I doing up so early? <g>
 
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#16 ·
Hmmmm . . . it's really early - how can I check that? Isn't there water going down the drain from the purge anyway?
Watch the condenser drain during during harvest. The flow should stop. With the ice sensor you might check where the thickness screw hits the evep plastic. Sometimes I find an indentation. If the probe moves from left to right the bridge will change and it can cause the #2 trip. You are probably not looking at one problem there. I'm sure you'll find them. Good Luck
 
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#22 ·
Ice -

Original Me: Hey; what should the head pressure drop down to during defrost? Any idea?

You: With 80* F around the unit 154-186 psi discharge 86-108 psi suction. I haven't worked on many water cooled on a well could they be having pump problems or running out of water?
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As I recall (from vaguely mentally picturing what my gauges looked like); the pressures in defrost were about 100 Suction and maybe 150 Head - or maybe a little less.

The reason I asked is because someone mentioned that the longish defrost times (and exess harvest faulting) could be the result of the water valve leaking through even when the head pressure is below setpoint. And I thought - if there were, in fact; happening it would tend to drive the head pressure druing defrost lower than would be normal.

Of course - before asking you - I had no idea what "normal for defrost' head pressure might be. <g>

Thanks!

No word from them so far and yesterday was an all-day crush of work and schmoozing the boss Sikhs who provide it so I didn't get back to the ice machine. While "no word" seems good - they are famous for calling with the angry complaint: "Hey! We haven't had ice for three days." <g>
 
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