Is this a refrigerator? Just kidding, they do have fridges that are 240vdc off 120v utility.


I did a leak repair on a nordyne inverter unit recently and if i recall it was wired to a noncommunicating 24v stat. So that rules that out(or you could rule it by using 24v controls) . If i recall the system has 2 boards in it, no? Sooo my guess is the inverter board or the board that tells the inverter board what to do.

Posting a model number could help alot here but ide probably just call local tech support.




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It is a refrigerator.
Model# 795.74029.411
115 volt ~ 60Hz 3.0Amps

The power is 115 volts. The inverter adjusts the input voltage from 25 volts to 220 volts, as needed.

While it ramps up, the suction pressure drops like normal. But once it spikes to 190 volts, the compressor sounds like it's working in overdrive (because it is).
Once the amps reach 1.82 amps, it shuts down (by design).

I am thinking the inverter is the problem.... but I don't want to replace a $board, if it could possibly be a sensor issue or a refrigerant restriction (unlikely).

I was just hoping someone here has experienced the same thing, or perhaps is more experienced with this particular unit, and could shed a little light.... before I throw this thing off of the balcony.

Ps. For some reason, I can't post pictures right now.

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It is a refrigerator.
Model# 795.74029.411
115 volt ~ 60Hz 3.0Amps

The power is 115 volts. The inverter adjusts the input voltage from 25 volts to 220 volts, as needed.

While it ramps up, the suction pressure drops like normal. But once it spikes to 190 volts, the compressor sounds like it's working in overdrive (because it is).
Once the amps reach 1.82 amps, it shuts down (by design).

I am thinking the inverter is the problem.... but I don't want to replace a $ board, if it could possibly be a sensor issue or a refrigerant restriction (unlikely).

I was just hoping someone here has experienced the same thing, or perhaps is more experienced with this particular unit, and could shed a little light.... before I throw this thing off of the balcony.

Ps. For some reason, I can't post pictures right now.

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Oh it really is a fridge��[emoji106]you have to understand nordyne brands ac’s under Frigidaire, Maytag and probably kenmore

I doubt you get much help here, but, i have just a little experience with these or similar systems and i cant tell you how many i have see that sears replaced the compressor and after it still didnt work jumped ship, deemed it unrepairable and gave the warranty customer a whole new fridge.

Did you put pressure ports on both lines? Hows it look? Is it multi evaporator? Could be an issue with the valve. Are you actually measuring the amps? As it locks out, and how?

Just a few thoughts but, my money would be on the inverter board or better yet the balcony.


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I'm just taking a stab in the dark here... What is the inverter controlled by? It sounds like it's being driven to 100% when it didn't actually need to be. If it's controlled by pressure then maybe the transducer has failed. If it controlled by temperature then I would check the thermistors. Is there any chance you can get your gauges on it to see what the pressure is and compare that to the output signal ode transducer or thermistor to see if it's reading correct?

You would also be able to determine if there is a blockage in the line if you could get your gauges on it. I think you will just be guessing until you can read those pressures.


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I installed a port on the suction line. I will install one on the hot gas line. I also replaced the filter dryer.
I have a new 3 way valve as well, but have not installed it.

I have no information as far as the controlling factor... transducer or thermistor.

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It should be clear if the inverter controls the compressor using transducers (they have a distinct look) and could very well be a communication issue with them, if it has transducers. All inverter-driven systems work basically the same. The system needs to know pressures, temperatures of the lines, and what position the EEV is in, and it'll operate the compressor based on those measurements. Not sure how this particular fridge works, sounds over-engineered if you ask me, but it can't be too far from that basic principle.

 

Over engineered is definitely the case, as far as i know they just have a bunch of thermistors.


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UPDATE:

I found that there was a refrigerant restriction.
The unit was grossly overcharged... it was trapped in the condenser section.
Once I added a service port on the high side, vacuum and charged by weight, the compressor purred like a kitten. However... there was still a major restriction somewhere is the system. The compressor was pulling the suction side into a vacuum (-22 psig), but would continue to run like that.
I changed out the 3 way valve and the dryer again... it didn't help...

THE RESOLUTION:

The unit is on the sidewalk, with FREE written on it.... I purchased a good, used General Electric Refrigerator for cheap, and it works GREAT.

MORAL OF THE STORY:

Don't by LG or KENMORE products.
You're welcome.

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Funny you say that, i just posted in another thread about a condenser frosting up on a small cooler.

I think you did the right thing, have to be careful buying a fridge, they have a buider grade” Fridge out just plane jane over under with no fancy features or variable capacity that has an inverter compressor. It would be the equivalent of an x13 for little fridges and not unlike the x13’s the inverter is not cheap and prone to fail.


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It amazes me how cheaply made it is... yet so expensive to buy. I will never buy one again. I am DONE with Sears.

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Did you pull the compressor back out ?

 

I thought about it.... but no.
I doubt I will get anything out of it anyway.

It is still on the sidewalk, so I could.

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I don't want to beat a dead horse, but as long as other people are still poking...

What was the original failure of the compressor? Small systems often have very fine strainers in them and they will plug up very easily if the compressor was a burn out, nitrogen wasn't purged during the one or two torched connections, or easy seal product was added to the system (to name the most common causes that I see although the easy seal, or other brand of similar product, usually plugs up the filter dryer). Unless you have a failed metering device I would start by looking for a plugged strainer. You would be able to feel where it is by running your hand along the pipes until you feel the temperature suddenly change. That restriction has become your new metering device so it will be obvious. If you have access to the pipes then I bet you could find it pretty easy. Find and rip out that strainer (or clean it and reinstall it) and you get yourself a free fridge that is already sitting at your front door


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Sears doesn't build anything. Most of their fridges are Frigidaire. You can get a chart off the net, the first 3 digits in the model number denote mfgr. Years ago, most Kenmore products were whirlpool.

 

Sears doesn't make them, but they do represent the Kenmore brand. They are the customer service representative, that handles warranty services, etc.
The compressor had a 10 year warranty on it, by the way. However, only their technicians can order the compressor and I stall the compressor, at the customers expense. A warranty compressor would have cost me nearly $. Then I would have been responsible for all the other parts they decided to replace (which didn't need replaced), that they quoted me an additional $ for a filter dryer and motherboard. The compressor cost me $, $ for the 3-way valve and $ for the dryer.

They told me that if all of that didn't fix it, they would give me a $500 allowance towards a new (overpriced) refrigerator.... but would have still been responsible for the repair expenses.

Sears runs a BS scam with their warranty repairs and technical services... especially since the technicians are ignorant PARTS CHANGERS only and not skilled techs, that actually finds the problem.

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The compressor was not a burnout. The valves were damaged. I am assuming from the restriction.

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I agree, appliance repair in general is a tough game for any tech willing to tackle the project, they are often times designed at very high functionality and just getting to the component can be time consuming and high risk of breaking things as they are all plastic, atleast, mini splits use phillips. [emoji39]

I dont believe there is such a thing as a truley good appliance tech these days.