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Snapperhead

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
This thing is killing me

Victory UF-27-SST

R404 # 1 supco cap tube

complaint , they have to to unplug unit once a week to thaw coil

Threw gauges on , had 10 low side , 165 high , Tech support said cap tube . Changed drier and cap tube , throw in 11 oz 404 , and defrost clock (cheap little black plastic supco with 2 dials) Part # EDT 11 ... just to be safe.

Set for every 6 hrs , 35 min , just like it was

Check defrost , pulling 1.2 amps on heater , ok sounds good

Pressures 260 , 15 low , 0 degree box

Week later iced over again

Throw unit in truck and bring home :det:

Fire it up , and I've noticed 2 things ....

1 --- It pulls down nice and fast -2 degrees within 20 minutes , but comes back on 4 degrees later , within 2 minutes.

Is 6 degree diff ok ? Its original thermostat 50616101 .... or is this happening because box empty ?

2 --- Throw in defrost , heater doesnt really get all that hot. I mean I can hold my finger on bottom row a while , then it finally get good and warm , and the top row takes forever to even get warm. Probly like 2 minutes before i feel anything on top row.

Although this is 115 volt , im thinking it should be friggin hot as hell within 30 seconds.... but im used to working on 220 volt walk-ins where you hear the heaters burning off water and its going tshhhhh tshhhh tshhhhhh within no time

Door gaskets fine , coils clean
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
i just googled the def heater , and everyones offering a 300 watt , which would be 2.5 amp , but i did come across one 200 amp which is 1.6 hmmmmmm

I called tech support 10 times today , all lines busy
 
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If you can't get Victory tech support, try a 3rd party parts supplier. Case parts is pretty knowledgeable, makes some of their own aftermarket heaters and coils, and can probably give you specs on that heater.

I have had one of those heaters fail like that before, and it was on a Victory upright cooler/freezer (freezer side) - it had high resistance, low amps, and would get luke warm. New heater (from case) and good as new.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Son of a :censored: Looking at that PDF you posted I just noticed the cap tube victory uses is .036 , and the supco I used was .031

Supco suggests 30 inches for 1/3 hp , and I put in the whole 10 feet to match what was in there

Thats why im still a tiny bit low on suction :gah:

Should I remove 7 feet ?

You gotta be kidding me
 
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What's the condition of the defrost limit? ... excessive resistance through it will cause issues. Ohm her out make sure she's clean

Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk 4
 
Son of a :censored: Looking at that PDF you posted I just noticed the cap tube victory uses is .036 , and the supco I used was .031

Supco suggests 30 inches for 1/3 hp , and I put in the whole 10 feet to match what was in there

Thats why im still a tiny bit low on suction :gah:

Should I remove 7 feet ?

You gotta be kidding me
Check SH...maybe with a load in it
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
What's the condition of the defrost limit? ... excessive resistance through it will cause issues. Ohm her out make sure she's clean
its got a 20 - 50

I tested it and it clicked closed right at 50

Didnt test at 20 ...
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
took out 33 inches ( it was the easy part to get to ) and im testing now

So far have 260 high 17 low 0 degree box

Yesterday 260 and 15

cant check SH , no way to get in there

I tried to get reading right where it exits case , but showed like 60 deg SH , and thats because the cap tube hugs the suction ....
 
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What's the condition of the defrost limit? ... excessive resistance through it will cause issues. Ohm her out make sure she's clean

Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk 4
its got a 20 - 50

I tested it and it clicked closed right at 50

Didnt test at 20 ...
Hey Snapperhead, hvac wiz 79 was suggesting that the defrost limit may have some resistance when closed, which would drop the effective voltage and reduce current flow through the element. How's the voltage AT the element leads?
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I removed heater and hooked to extension cord. Still pullled 1.2 , but it was short living ... within 30 seconds it went to zero amps. Dead now.
 
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Discussion starter · #15 ·


Dead heater test ..... evap unit tight as hell .... before cap tube was shortened it looked neat ..... after cap tube shorten
 
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united refrigeration sells .036 cap tube. # tc36 . i would have went with the bc2 .040 . .031 seems too small
 
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Discussion starter · #17 ·
I got this at united , its all they offered was BC 1 , 2 , 3

Stupid me, used my tip cleaning tool as a gauge to shove into the line to determine which one i wanted , and it felt pretty darn close.

But then seeing the size online later AFTER i replaced it kinda sucked

I almost wonder if someone replaced it years ago with the wrong size ....

Who knows . All I know is this will have one cold friggin coil
 
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They make a size gauge for cap tubes. Not very costly.

I got this at united , its all they offered was BC 1 , 2 , 3

Stupid me, used my tip cleaning tool as a gauge to shove into the line to determine which one i wanted , and it felt pretty darn close.

But then seeing the size online later AFTER i replaced it kinda sucked

I almost wonder if someone replaced it years ago with the wrong size ....

Who knows . All I know is this will have one cold friggin coil
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Another thing im not sure about. When temps satisfied at -4 and shuts off , high drops to like 200 and low 40 , and when it comes on the high will graudually rise to 330 within 20 seconds or so , then settle back down to 260

This normal ?

Im just wondering because when it gets into the hot kitchen its going to rise farther .... id think
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
Knowing the wrong cap tube is installed makes me wonder if I should change it again ( id really hate to ) or if the pressures will be fine like it stands since i shortened the tube

I have this thing at home for a couple days while waiting on def heater to arrive , so if anyone thinks it wont be ok as is .... i reckon i will have to change it

but the jumping to 330 has me stumped .... but at the same time dont think changing cap tube would help that whatsoever

Im thinking it may be due to the fact I added a squirt more in anticipation of removing hoses and it losing a little charge. I always do that , but maybe this little unit cant accept the additional squirt since its only 11 oz to begin with
 
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