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mictouch

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I had a 30 plus year old 4 ton AC/Heater Unit and I had a HVAC Contractor come out and suggest I go to a new 5 ton unit. The 3,000 sq/ft house has been upgraded recently to Stucco on the outside over the existing wood. It has also all brand new double pane windows with new insulation in the very small attic. The house is all wood inside - No Dry Wall. It has a beautiful Gable Roof with High WOOD Ceilings - only a 4 inch insulation barrier between the Asphalt Roofing Shingles and Plywood to the Interior Wood Ceiling. A lot of heat comes from this roof. The house gets a lot of morning sun through it's large View Windows on the southern side and in the afternoon the sun heats up the upstairs mainly through the roof. The bedrooms on the north facing side of the house have very small windows.

The problem is that the upstairs is almost always close to 10 degrees hotter than the downstairs. Being in Southern California heating is Not the issue at all. It is 6 - 8 months out of the year trying to stay comfortable upstairs.

The HVAC tech installed a new Tempest (Model # CE60A34210L004) Unit and the AC is still NOT Cooling the Upstairs. It feels like the fan is on low speed. Last night it was 74 degrees outside at 5pm. The bedrooms upstairs were almost 86 from a pretty warm day. The downstairs was a nice 78 degrees. I closed all the doors and windows and ran the system for an hour and the upstairs was down to 82 and the downstairs (Twice the size as upstairs) was down to 76. After another hour the upstairs had cooled down a bit more to 81 and the downstairs to 74. Even hours later with the temperature outside dropping nicely the upstairs remained at 79 and it was just a lot better to shut off the AC and just open the windows and run fans in the room, just like I have done for the past 10 years!

I read through a lot of other peoples posts and I can honestly tell you that nobody did any TESTING or Heat Loss Calculations in my house. This HVAC technician has been in business for 30 years and he was highly recommended to me by my General Contractor. He did add 3-4 more runs. One to the new kitchen, one to my small office upstairs and one extra run to the bedroom and it’s teed off to the hallway outside the bedroom upstairs.

The problem is the new 5 ton unit doesn’t seem to cool the house down any better than the old 4 ton unit did. It also feels like the fan is on low speed. The Return air ducting is all the same as before and most of the accessible ducking has been changed out and upgraded.

I’m just thinking possibly the return air is not the proper CFM for the 5 Ton Unit. It is an 18 inch Duct and off of the custom outlet plenum he had built I can count (4) 8 inch runs on one side – (1) 12 inch run and (1) 10 inch run from the top and (2) 8 inch off the other side of the plenum feeding the ducts in the house.

Any ideas or suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the lack of knowledge in this area. Ask me anything about automobiles and I can probably have a good answer for you… Ha Ha
 
I've gone into 2 story houses and had people say they wanted to go bigger to cool the upstairs better. My response is to go smaller!!! If the load calc said I could. What often happens is bigger equipment runs less, cools the downstairs quickly and leaves the upstairs hot. Smaller unit runs a lot and cools more evenly.

Looks like insufficient ducting. When you go 25% larger, you need to enlarge EVERYTHING 25%. Supply & return ducts and supply & return grilles. 18" flex is way too small for 2000 CFM, even 18" metal pipe is.

First step is for him to take a total external static pressure reading and see how restricted the ductwork is. Then see if more ductwork can be put upstairs where you need more air.

Not sure what a Tempest is. The model # you give looks like an Aspen brand cooling coil.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your help - This is also another model number on the outside unit - Heil NXA660GKA100 5 Ton Split System Air Conditioner 14.5 SEER 208-230V R410a and the Model Number for the Furnace is a KeepRite # N9MSB and it's manufactured by Celsius HVAC, Ltd.
 
Thanks for your help - This is also another model number on the outside unit - Heil NXA660GKA100 5 Ton Split System Air Conditioner 14.5 SEER 208-230V R410a and the Model Number for the Furnace is a KeepRite # N9MSB and it's manufactured by Celsius HVAC, Ltd.
The chance of your duct work being correctly sized and laid out, going to a larger unit will exacerbate the problem
 
MayfieldVillage, this is the Ask Our Pro's forum, and only Pro members that have been vetted by the AOPC may post advise, commentary or ask questions of the OP here.

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POST # 5 REALLY NEEDS TO BE DELETED.
 
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I would have opted for a mini-split upstairs AND much smaller unit downstairs since air distribution is going to be quite difficult to remedy.

Cathedral Type CEILING will ALWAYS BE AN ISSUE.

" The house is all wood inside - No Dry Wall. It has a beautiful Gable Roof with High WOOD Ceilings - only a 4 inch insulation barrier between the
Asphalt Roofing Shingles and Plywood to the Interior Wood Ceiling. A lot of heat comes from this roof. "
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
Sorry for posting this in the wrong place. I thought I originally posted it under "Normal Discussion" thread and it was gone within an hour and i found it posted here thinking someone must have moved it into the proper Thread. Sorry OLD GUY HERE and NEW at this FORUM STUFF - just looking for some knowledgable advice to move forward with.

Thanks Everyone!
 
Sorry for posting this in the wrong place. I thought I originally posted it under "Normal Discussion" thread and it was gone within an hour and i found it posted here thinking someone must have moved it into the proper Thread. Sorry OLD GUY HERE and NEW at this FORUM STUFF - just looking for some knowledgable advice to move forward with.

Thanks Everyone!
Your thread was move here(AOP Residential Forum). Where it belongs. No problem, we all make mistakes.
 
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