Installing a media filter the first time needs to be done by a professional. The power needs to be disconnected not just turned off.

Right....,

I installed F200E1037 myself.

Pack of screws, two clamps, tube of mastic, closeq drill + hour of your time.

btw AirWatch - junk IMHO.

 

Doesn't VS blower compensate for changes like this to maintain proper SP?

opps! I just noticed in the OP has a TUY100. Nice machine!

Yes, a VS blower will compensate -- within limits. But it will use more energy.

I did an analysis for a client once on the cost of operating against a higher static, vs. the additional cost of having to maintain two side-by-side filters. I thought it was going to be a wash until a nosy tech pointed out that a larger filter surface won't get dirty as fast. But that was on a conventional 3-tap BM. With a VS, it's really hard to know.

Still, if the exsiting ESP is high, the motor could already be nearly peaked out. In that case, adding additional pressure drop wouldn't be a good idea. So even with a VS BM, I would still recommend checking the ESP before replacing an EAC with a media filter.

David

 

Doesn't VS blower compensate for changes like this to maintain proper SP?

 

Originally posted by wptski
Interesting! What's the Honeywell media filter number? I'd like to look into it. I know that the Pro's are going to tell you that your taking a chance by replacing the elements with a media filter as the increased pressure drop of the filter will raise your ESP. I called a local contractor and they said that I could do what you did with no problem at all! Go figure....

The local contractor is simply wrong. It's amazing how airflow is an afterthought with some contractors. I don't know how many systems I've seen with low airflow (partly) caused by a media filter. Don't get me wrong, I think high-quality media filters are great, but you have to design to a higher external static. In retrofit, if you're lucky (and I mean *real* lucky), the duct system will already have low static and can *afford* the additional pressure drop.

There are two ways to design a system with a media filter: the easiest is to use a larger blower (or set to a higher speed). But the A/H will cost more to operate. Most folks don't realize the blower represents a sizable fraction of their cooling cost, perhaps 20% with the new 13 SEER equipment.

A better way is to transistion out to a larger filter. More surface area means less pressure drop. Depending on the size of the air handler, it may take two smaller filters to get a large enough surface area. This solution is obviously more difficult in retrofit, but if the customer already has restricted duct system, it may be the only way to add a media filter without replacing the air handler and/or duct system.

David

 

keep the electronic... makes a good bug zapper!

 

I got new Honeywell media filter and it fits just fine. Do I need to keep original prefilters installed or use media filter only?

Interesting! What's the Honeywell media filter number? I'd like to look into it. I know that the Pro's are going to tell you that your taking a chance by replacing the elements with a media filter as the increased pressure drop of the filter will raise your ESP. I called a local contractor and they said that I could do what you did with no problem at all! Go figure....

EDIT: Whoops! I see that you posted the numbers.

[Edited by wptski on 07-31-2006 at 09:02 AM]

 

I got new Honeywell media filter and it fits just fine. Do I need to keep original prefilters installed or use media filter only?

 

I'll get power issue resolved, it is nothing to worry about. Is Home Depot filter good enough or better stick with Honeywell?

 

Installing a media filter the first time needs to be done by a professional. The power needs to be disconnected not just turned off.

As far as power goes. If you remove the large front cover to access the elements, there's a sheet metal screw at the top,if you remove that, the whole power supply simply plugs into the back section like any cord, it has male prongs. You may have another switch like I do but that may power your whole system too, can't kill the power there!!

EDIT: There might be one cover on top that needs to be removed too, I forget.

[Edited by wptski on 07-28-2006 at 11:29 AM]

 

I will call a pro to disconnect the power.

 

Installing a media filter the first time needs to be done by a professional. The power needs to be disconnected not just turned off.

 

I recently had new Trane TUY100 Furnace and AC installed. Installer recomended to keep my existing electronic filter Honeywell F50A 1017. It appears to be working, I can hear it clicking. I don't feel that it cleans air well an wanted to explore other options. I'm not looking for high end filter but wanted to get something better then what I currently have. Filter has 2 cells 16 x 12 1/2 x 4 3x8 each. What would you recommend?

I have the same F50A installed in the early eighties. Last year the power supply died and no componets are available so I installed a upgrade power supply.

That F50A is supposed reduce particles down to .5 micrometer. If I just run the fan in manual so the EAC is operating it reduces particle counts even as small as .3 micrometer! I'm using a particle counter and it don't lie.

I've mentioned this in other threads but since like was mentioned above, EAC's normally gets a two thumbs down! I'm not sure if the new power supply has anything to do with it working so good or not.

 

It appears that I need FC100A1029 filter elemennts. My local contractor doesn't have any in stock but can order them. It appears that I can also order same filters online in many places. Also Home Depot carries True Blue Replacement For Honeywell Model FC100A1029 with SKU 318446 for $25 each. Are these any good? They have MERV RATING: 11 and the ad also says "Lasts up to 1 Year"

 

MERV 8 will suffice. You're trying to keep the system clean and free of mold, not "purify" the air.

Electronic air cleaners are junk; most of the crap passes right through the cells and ends up in the blower compartment. (used to have one)

 

Is MERV 8 good enough or I need higher MERV rating?

 

My Carrier EAC has a fried circuit board. Stick a 16x25 Honeywell media filter in there, end of problem.

EAC's make air filtration way more complicated than it needs to be IMO. I don't like them.

 

one option would to be to have someone that knows what they are doing to disable the powerpack and install an air bear cub filter. I don't usually disable them unless the powerpackes are not functioning though. Maybe a charcoal prefilter would be a better option for you.

There is a switch on the filter housing that cuts the power to the filter. Do you suggest air bear cub filter + prefilter? I don't want filter to restrict air flow too much.

 

Where can I buy a disposable honeywell 16 x 25 media filter?

call your contractor, he can give you info.

 

one option would to be to have someone that knows what they are doing to disable the powerpack and install an air bear cub filter. I don't usually disable them unless the powerpackes are not functioning though. Maybe a charcoal prefilter would be a better option for you.

 

Where can I buy a disposable honeywell 16 x 25 media filter?

 

keep the filter housing and install a disposable honeywell 16 x 25 media filter in it's place. replace bi-annually.

no cleaning or maintenence required.

make sure your ductwork can handle the added static pressure drop. consult a qualified hvac proffessional.