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GE H10 B Leak Detector

16K views 14 replies 11 participants last post by  hvac_01453  
#1 ·
I just bought a new GE H10 B leak Detector that has never been used but has been stored since it was purchased....I would like to find out how to refill the calibrate reference since it is now empty. The instructions say to fill 7/8's full of R-11. But I was wondering if you could substitute with R-22 instead....

Also.... The original tube still had the screw in it and I was wondering what I could do to remove it . I tried using a screw driver but it is really stuck in the aluminum cap ....

Are there any upgrades to this unit to enable it to detect newer refrigerants as well ...???
 
#2 ·
LMAO... You are going to be hard pressed to get r-22 into that sample bottle. That screw is preset to let 1/4 oz (I think thats the right amt) of r-11 escape for a reference. See if you can get one at UR.
 
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#3 ·
Unless you only work on older equipment, that H10B is a doorstop....

You can use R-11 or even the more rare R-113 to fill the bottle, but IMHO you need to P/U an new bottle, get the instructions for calibration of that tool and it will explain why this is important...

It cannot be upgraded that I am aware of.

GT
 
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#5 ·
The h-10 g is a good leak detector, capable of detecting all core refrigerants we use. I use mine just in compressor rooms. Pretty much all your local hvac-r supply houses will either have or can order you a calibration bottle and any other parts u might need. But if your looking for a challenge you can try to fill with r-22.
 
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#9 ·
I don't know what model I have as all it says is H-10 and no where do I see any letters after the H-10. It as well uses R-11 as the reference leak. So is this a doorstop or what?

I know it detects R-22 leaks cause i've tested it on them but I take it, it won't detect anything else? And just to clarify, there is no reference refrigerant I can use in it except the non existent R-11?
 
#12 ·
Oh wow i just noticed the G inst automatic. LOL

Get the H10-PM. Thats the Cadillac. Its manual or automatic. And battery powered. Now i do mostly resi and some light commercial but ive never had the battery run out on me. But i usually dont need to use any longer than 10-20 minutes.

LOL i wasnt understanding why people were saying "you gotta get used to using it" LOL i got the PM so mine auto balances. Thats funny. I was reading thinking "get used to it?" huh?
 
#15 ·
Ge H10

several companies have bought this detector. Its a standard for the industry. The only thing some techs dont like is the AC cord. Some newer models have batteries. This will detect many many refrigerants. R12, R22, R502, electrolytes from batteries being charged (I found out by accident....).. any refrigerant with halogenated gases,.... many of the blends have HFCs or HCFC's.... It detects those elements....I use mine all the time. It detects 410a but not that well, and as I discovered, one of my newer detectors a Detech has sensors that go out with moisture and very few hours of operation and the sensors are $80 a pop. My H10 has the original sensor and won't die... As far as detection goes and calibration its not needed. Set it to medium and tune it to clean air with a tick or flash 1 per second, if the thing starts to sing, switch to high and calibrate to 1 tick or flash per second and try again, if it continues to sing desensitize to less than one per second and try again. If its still singing, your dealing with a large, large leak.... use your eyes,hands and ears....remember leaks are found this way also. If you dont get any detections, make sure you have refrigerant in the system, if very little, use a nitrogen 22 mix and pump up the pressure to find the leak. I have the JB Prowler now for R410a, but still prefer the HG for R22 systems that will be around for many years. I have both a GE and Yokohama H10, Mars made one too. I think Baachrach has it now. in 1993 I paid about $425.
 
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