[The_Pickle]

I am replacing my HVAC system. I asked my allergy doc about EAC's and he didn't like them (ozone). He suggested HEPA + UV.

Looking around at the threads, it sounds like the EAC's are love them or hate them. I was looking at the F300 or Clean Effects, but am turned off by having to go into the attic to service them. The F52F (which I think is the same as the F300 only celling mounted) would work for me, but it is still spendy.

I have yet to get prices for a HEPA system, but it sounds like HVAC guys look down on them as well. So I was thinking about just going with a good Media filter and maby get a quote to add on a UV to it. WHat do people think about the Honeywell FC40R? Is there something simmilar?

Also, I see it is rated at both MERV 8 at 295FPM and 10 at 492? Only, they have different filter sized listed. I have a 20x20 filter now which says it is a MERV 8. If I go with this setup, would I be better off putting in a larger filter? I am installing a 1.5 ton VS air handler or furnace.

I also have found an "Envirosept" filter that looks like a good replacement for the MEDIA filter types. Anyone herd of them?

Thank!

 

[big johnson]

When deciding on filtration you need to know what kind of pressure drop your system can handle and what you are trying to accomplish. What are your allergies? Do you feel better indoors or outdoors? I would not recommend anything more efficient than a MERV 8 for a home system. A MERV 8 will capture just about everything that causes most home discomfort such as mold, down to about 3 microns. I firmly believe that to improve indoor air quality, it's best to look at how much outside air you have coming into the home before you start micro-filtering what's inside the home. Every time I have had to do air testing because of Air Quality concerns, the first question asked is "what is your minimum outside air dilution and total air changes per hour."

 

[The_Pickle]

Bigest hit is pollen

When I have major attacks, it is when I am outdoors, or have been outdoors. So you would think I would be better going with a good Media type and outting the rest into a good heat recovery ventilator?

If I went that route, then I guess I would have to get a filter at the furnace to filter the incomming air? Or is there another option? Also, can the filters (such as Honeywell F200) really last 1 year?

Thanks

 

[Stamas]

Every home is different, lifestyles, pets, kids, location, etc have a direct effect on how long a filter will last. The nice thing about the HW F-200 is the switch that can give you an indication on when it is loading up. We do use alot of these and the Spaceguard liters.
I just checked out the new Carrier air filters. Looked very interesting. Have not used them, and don't know anyone that has, but they do seem to have a good idea. I have used the Clean Effects filter, but I think the jury is out on them. I don't like the vague #'s they give us and they do require regular maintenance by you.

 

[The_Pickle]

FC40R is Honeywell (found in Honeywell book)

Stamas: When you said "new Carrier airfilters", are they the same Honeywell FC40R's?? I could not find them on their website myself.

What I am thinking of doing:
I am looking at putting in a Lennex HP system (getting the 19XP - with rebates/tax credit it actually puts it close to the AS system that was on the top of my bid choices). I will likly put in a premium air cleaner at some point, but want to wait for now. To put in a F-200 or so would cost a few hundered at this point and would be waisted money if I replaced it in the future, so I was attracted to the FC40R's as it would not cost me a cent (other then the better filter). I would then put a cheapy in the slot on the air handler to protect it when the fresh air opens up. (I would have to make sure that it dosn't overload the fan too much).

Also, being that the air handler is in the attic, I woun't have to go up there every few months to replace the filter. (I am assuming the cheapy filter I would put up there should last a long time as the only unfiltered air going through it would be from the fresh air system.

What do ya think? Am I asking for trouble?

Thanks,

The Pickle

 

[breathe easy]

Just have your contractor install a filter box for a standard 4" filter. You can purchase this filter in various efficiencies ranging from MERV 7 to MERV 11.

The MeRV 11 should be about as efficient on allergens as the more expensive air cleaners.

Make sure your contractor provides enough return air and tests your static pressure. Do not double filter the air - even with an inexpensive throwaway

 

[Stamas]

Don't believe a worh Breathe Says!

Or not.
Not bad advice, all in all, especially about having the pressure drop and static checked. Checking for duct leakage all around would be a good idea.

 

[sam_hikes]

Is double filtering the air - even with an inexpensive throwaway bad? I have 5 inch Trane filter media/box next to the airhandler with 20x30 std supply grate.

How do contractors check pressure levels? What sort of device/methods?

 

[breathe easy]

Double filtering or using a pre-filter is standard practice in commercial systems with expensive high-efficiency final filters.

However, I keep hearing horror stories of inadequate air flow in residential systems. (A contractor I talked to today said that over 50% of the systems he tests have inadequate return air.) The pressure drop of two filters is the sum of the pressure drop of each filter. Even a cheap throwaway can add too much resistance if the system is borderline or not properly designed.

I will let the pros give you their thoughts on the best ways to check static pressure.

 

[The_Pickle]

All I was trying to do

is look for a cheap way to get better filtering for now untill I have a chance to decide what type of "premium" filter I want. The Honeywell FC40R's look like they go right in my old return grill (inside my house) to avoid going into the attic to have to change the filter. But I have a fresh air system that attaches to the air return . So, if I only had a filter at the return grill, then when the fresh air system is on, unfiltered air would go into the air handler. That is why I was thinking of some type of filter to go there.

Maby there is some type of filter that can be attached to the fresh air system (within price reasonability that is)...

 

[Stamas]

Okay, I get it. Yes, thats a good interim choice, in fact I use one myself, just didn't recognize that model #. I will be changing the system and adding a central air cleaner so I have the same decisions on what to use and I honestly can't say what I'll be using.
Measuring static and duct leakage should be done way more often than it is. I would think that that percentage is probably a bit higher than that if all were checked. The #'s mfg's have for their equipment performance and what actually is are way different. We have had many customers who wanted better equipment when the money would be better spent on improving or replacing the ductwork. No use spending $$$$$ on hi eff. systems and having crappy ductwork. It doesn't take much to knock 1 or 2 points off the rating.

 

[The_Pickle]

I think I am going to go with a filter cabnet...

I did find a perfect solution for what I wanted to do:http://www.fantech.net/fb6.pdf but they are not exactly cheap. So I may decide to go with some type of 4" filter at the air handler. Not exactly sure if I will go with a F200 or Aprilaire 2200... but thats for another thread.

 

[breathe easy]

This seems like a reasonable solution to me. However, I can't understand why this Fantech product would be pricey. It is just a filter box with two 6" connectors.

One advantage is that you could use any type of filter in this that you select. The 10X20X1 filter size is a semi-standard. You should be able to find it in everything from a throwaway to a high efficiency pleat. (No need to purchase the Fantech filter.)

 

[The_Pickle]

Not too pricey, but...

I guess I havn't looked at the price of any hvac stuff (other then the units I am looking at) but it seems like more then what I would expect it too be. I guess if the box is really well made then it isn't all that much (wish I could say how much I found it for, but I guess thats against the rules). If this would be a perment solution, then I would pay the price I found it for.

The info sheet said to check every 6 months for replacement (at least until you figure out how long it will really last). How long would I expect such a filter too last? I don't live in the "big city" but I am just a block away from some retired farm land/open fields.

I guess I will have to first determin which route I want to take with my primary filter.