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urb0123

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

A little intro. I joined the site about 3 years ago and have just been lurking off and on. Many years ago (2003), the AC quit working in my wife's car and the price I was quoted prompted me to learn to do it myself. I expanded into fixing appliances as a lot of the equipment was the same. I just needed to learn to braze and deal with copper and aluminum tubing. I'm small time, usually people just hand me a fridge that's broken and it's basically "If you can fix it it's yours." I have a collection of them growing in my back yard now.

One of the joys of fridges and freezers is that none of them come with service ports on them. They're sealed. I started with clamp-on piercing valves but those leaked. I decided they were good for a unit I was just going to evac and dump, but not on anything I would be keeping or giving back to the owner.

I can browse local supply shops even though they won't sell to me since I'm not an official business nor am I certified. I stumbled across C&D braze on valves. Tougher to install, especially in the cramped quarters in an appliance, but I figured they wouldn't leak.

I've been trying to fix a refrigerator for a lady. It was built back in the late 80's and uses R-12. I checked all the electrical on it, everything checked out. Turns out it was low on refrigerant which is odd to me as I thought R-12 doesn't leak as much as 134 and it's supposedly a sealed system. So I figure there's a leak and put dye in. And run it with the manifold attached to watch pressures. It held for a week and was cooling great. No sign of leaks either. So I send it back and within five days it's died again. I go out and lo and behold there's dye all over the valves and sprayed across the back panel. Even the low side had leaked. My first thought was my brazing failed but that was fine. It was coming out from under the cap.

Which made me nuts because I have a freezer I've been fighting off and on for years (don't judge, I have 7 kids and EVERYTHING that breaks is on me to fix) and I bet it has the same issue with the valves leaking.

In a system that only takes 5 oz of refrigerant, even a small leak is catastrophic. I've only purchased 3 packages of these valves and gone through one of them. I can't tell if the schrader valve is the problem or if the leak is coming from between the piercing tube and outer edge. I got some teflon schrader valves that I hope fix the problem, and I also figured out that 010 sized HBNR or Viton orings would fit snug in the cap and be a good backup.

Has anyone else had these valves leak? Are they known for this? Is there something better out there?
 
Remember the cap is what seals the port. The Schrader is to allow access to the refrigerant.
I've brazed in lots of C&D valves on live systems. Haven't had a leak.
Put a 1/2" one on a 7/8 liquid line one time. Saved me from having to pull 90 lbs of 22 out.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thank you very much icy78! I really expected the valve core to be the seal. That makes me rethink a lot of schrader valve applications.


pecmsg

It could very well be an installer issue. Any idea what I could be doing wrong?

Maybe I need to put some nylog on the cap?
Maybe I need to torque the SOB down hard? I don't like doing that, especially with copper as I break shit when I just go gorilla.
Maybe I need to braze them to the line with the cap still on? Or off? Not sure which route I go.

Maybe there's an install procedure out there somewhere.
 
Thank you very much icy78! I really expected the valve core to be the seal. That makes me rethink a lot of schrader valve applications.


pecmsg

It could very well be an installer issue. Any idea what I could be doing wrong?

Maybe I need to put some nylog on the cap?
Maybe I need to torque the SOB down hard? I don't like doing that, especially with copper as I break shit when I just go gorilla.
Maybe I need to braze them to the line with the cap still on? Or off? Not sure which route I go.

Maybe there's an install procedure out there somewhere.
Your talking of brazing with the cap on or off, what about the refrigerant in the line?

Are you certified, licensed, insured?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thank you VTP99. Those would eliminate the plastic/teflon seal from the equation. I am not sure how to attach the tube type you are showing. Would I need to put a T on the line and then braze the tube to the T?



pecmsg
I was trying to offer up whatever I could think of that I might be doing wrong. I thought brazing with cap of the saddle valve off may be buggering up the body and preventing the cap from going on correctly later.

As far as refrigerant in the line, I assume it's there, and in whatever quantity will be there as I have no way of knowing until after I get some kind of access valve installed on the fridge. I could install a non brazing bullet valve first, evacuate the system, and then install one of these valves. I'm not sure how that has anything to do with the C&D valve leaking later.

And no, I'm not certified, licensed or insured. I stated so in my first post. I am certified to work with R-12 and 134a, but that certification is a joke. All it certified is that I pretended to buy into the EPA/Dupont koolaid that CFCs damage the ozone.

Why are you asking me if I am certified, licensed, insured?
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Yes I am Metalman! Thank you :)
At one point I wondered if I was waiting for the fitting to cool too long before I put the seals in, maybe the teflon needed heat to seat better?
 
Thank you VTP99. Those would eliminate the plastic/teflon seal from the equation. I am not sure how to attach the tube type you are showing. Would I need to put a T on the line and then braze the tube to the T?



pecmsg
I was trying to offer up whatever I could think of that I might be doing wrong. I thought brazing with cap of the saddle valve off may be buggering up the body and preventing the cap from going on correctly later.

As far as refrigerant in the line, I assume it's there, and in whatever quantity will be there as I have no way of knowing until after I get some kind of access valve installed on the fridge. I could install a non brazing bullet valve first, evacuate the system, and then install one of these valves. I'm not sure how that has anything to do with the C&D valve leaking later.

And no, I'm not certified, licensed or insured. I stated so in my first post. I am certified to work with R-12 and 134a, but that certification is a joke. All it certified is that I pretended to buy into the EPA/Dupont koolaid that CFCs damage the ozone.

Why are you asking me if I am certified, licensed, insured?
I’ll agree the certification is a joke but needless to say your not supposed to be working on this Equipment.
Is there refrigerant in the line? True you don’t know so you ASSUME there is even in a trace amount so what happens when you heat that refrigerant to 2500*F?
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
If I'm not supposed to be working on these fridges, then who is? The only other appliance repair gig in town doesn't know enough to use nitrogen when brazing. There's a lot I don't know but I know more than they do, and they are no more certified than I am.

Since I'm working with R12, heating it to 2500 would be break it down into chlorine and other related compounds.
Do you think the chlorine is breaking down the seals? What are you getting at?
 
Applying heat to a line with refrigerant in is might not be a great idea. Acids could form. I know some might say they've been doing it for years w/o a problem. Trouble with this logic is the tech leaves and might never go back so they really don't know if they created any problems.
Buy a piercing pliers. Johnstones and others carry them. It has a 1/4 fitting on it so once pierced the gas can be removed before brazing. If you look, most anything can be bought on line.
 
Save
Discussion starter · #14 ·
You, after an epa 608 type I or universal certification. :)
Thank you for that. Is the 608 test less of a joke than the 609 was? Memorizing a bunch of false political environmental BS is not my idea of a requirement. If it's an actual test I will look into it, I may learn something important.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Applying heat to a line with refrigerant in is might not be a great idea. Acids could form. I know some might say they've been doing it for years w/o a problem. Trouble with this logic is the tech leaves and might never go back so they really don't know if they created any problems.
Buy a piercing pliers. Johnstones and others carry them. It has a 1/4 fitting on it so once pierced the gas can be removed before brazing. If you look, most anything can be bought on line.
In the future I'll use some kind of piercing valve before I braze on any other fittings. Thank you. I don't know that chlorine is acidic, but it's certainly corrosive and I don't want that in my reclaim equipment.

I'm still not sure how to stop these valves from leaking as is. After researching how tube valves are installed I don't know that I can put a 1/4 inch diameter tube valve on 1/4 inch copper line when the hole I need to make is as big around as the line.
 
Use a 1/4" flare nut with a copper bonnet in it to seal every un-used access port.

PHM
-------


Hi all,

A little intro. I joined the site about 3 years ago and have just been lurking off and on. Many years ago (2003), the AC quit working in my wife's car and the price I was quoted prompted me to learn to do it myself. I expanded into fixing appliances as a lot of the equipment was the same. I just needed to learn to braze and deal with copper and aluminum tubing. I'm small time, usually people just hand me a fridge that's broken and it's basically "If you can fix it it's yours." I have a collection of them growing in my back yard now.

One of the joys of fridges and freezers is that none of them come with service ports on them. They're sealed. I started with clamp-on piercing valves but those leaked. I decided they were good for a unit I was just going to evac and dump, but not on anything I would be keeping or giving back to the owner.

I can browse local supply shops even though they won't sell to me since I'm not an official business nor am I certified. I stumbled across C&D braze on valves. Tougher to install, especially in the cramped quarters in an appliance, but I figured they wouldn't leak.

I've been trying to fix a refrigerator for a lady. It was built back in the late 80's and uses R-12. I checked all the electrical on it, everything checked out. Turns out it was low on refrigerant which is odd to me as I thought R-12 doesn't leak as much as 134 and it's supposedly a sealed system. So I figure there's a leak and put dye in. And run it with the manifold attached to watch pressures. It held for a week and was cooling great. No sign of leaks either. So I send it back and within five days it's died again. I go out and lo and behold there's dye all over the valves and sprayed across the back panel. Even the low side had leaked. My first thought was my brazing failed but that was fine. It was coming out from under the cap.

Which made me nuts because I have a freezer I've been fighting off and on for years (don't judge, I have 7 kids and EVERYTHING that breaks is on me to fix) and I bet it has the same issue with the valves leaking.

In a system that only takes 5 oz of refrigerant, even a small leak is catastrophic. I've only purchased 3 packages of these valves and gone through one of them. I can't tell if the schrader valve is the problem or if the leak is coming from between the piercing tube and outer edge. I got some teflon schrader valves that I hope fix the problem, and I also figured out that 010 sized HBNR or Viton orings would fit snug in the cap and be a good backup.

Has anyone else had these valves leak? Are they known for this? Is there something better out there?
 
Save
Applying heat to a line with refrigerant in is might not be a great idea. Acids could form. I know some might say they've been doing it for years w/o a problem. Trouble with this logic is the tech leaves and might never go back so they really don't know if they created any problems.
Buy a piercing pliers. Johnstones and others carry them. It has a 1/4 fitting on it so once pierced the gas can be removed before brazing. If you look, most anything can be bought on line.
Why would one ever use a CD valve if not to braze into " live" piping?
. I mean, what's the point of the effort of brazing the valve in, if one is then saddled (pun intended) with an inferior ,restricted access point?
Better to just use a Bullet piercing valve, recover, and then remove the bullet, and install a full tee and port.

I guess I see no point in the CD valve unless used on a charged system, to access it and leave in place. I'm talking tiny systems, where the tiny access port would not really affect vacuum times much.

Heres a trick I've done in a pinch, upstream of the dryer. Shorten the stem on the kind that VTP posted. Braze the stem to the parent piping. Install a core removal tool, and then drill into the parent pipe thru the core tool opening. Remove the drill and close the ball valve, and thread in a core.
That also works around a leak like a small rub thru. Weld pipe around the leak. Then insert the valve core. Saves a ton of time occasionally.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Thank you for that. Is the 608 test less of a joke than the 609 was? Memorizing a bunch of false political environmental BS is not my idea of a requirement. If it's an actual test I will look into it, I may learn something important.
Not really. There is no online, open book test for universal, so you need to memorize trivia if you don’t do type 1 only.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Why would one ever use a CD valve if not to braze into " live" piping?
. I mean, what's the point of the effort of brazing the valve in, if one is then saddled (pun intended) with an inferior ,restricted access point?
Better to just use a Bullet piercing valve, recover, and then remove the bullet, and install a full tee and port.

I guess I see no point in the CD valve unless used on a charged system, to access it and leave in place. I'm talking tiny systems, where the tiny access port would not really affect vacuum times much.

Heres a trick I've done in a pinch, upstream of the dryer. Shorten the stem on the kind that VTP posted. Braze the stem to the parent piping. Install a core removal tool, and then drill into the parent pipe thru the core tool opening. Remove the drill and close the ball valve, and thread in a core.
That also works around a leak like a small rub thru. Weld pipe around the leak. Then insert the valve core. Saves a ton of time occasionally.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
That's creative. I worry about copper filings clogging the capillary tube that way. I suppose the filter/dryer should collect those.
 
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