i have never done it before but i would use 1/2"-1" foam board and either glue it or use drives with screws to hold it in place.

 

I've used sheets of 1" Rubatex material with some success. Just gotta dry the unit really well and slather on some rubatex paint. Its a alot easier to work with than fiberglass IMO

 

I need to do the same but I don't know if i can simply cut a sheet of styrofoam to the appropriate size and glue it on the bottom or if needs to be a different material. I'm considering styrofoam since it won't loose it's thermal properties if it gets wet.

 

I would be hesistant to use styrofoam. The flame and smoke spread needs to comply with UL in this application.

 

It doesn't matter what insulation you use

because the mold didn't grow on the insulation. It grew because there was LIQUID WATER and Organic material (DIRT) So the mold would have grow on anything or more clearly, on any surface

 

I'm with acwizard about using foams.
there is a reason foam isn't approved for hvac.

I don't use foam products in returns or anything
hvac related. ductboard, duct wrap mastics.

I think you need to address why there is so much condensation
inside the unit. let me guess...ahu is located in attic?
until you address why there is so much condensation
you will be changing insulation often.

best of luck

 

he said his pan is cracked

 

Have you asked Carrier if they use the original style of insulation in a retrofit situation, or if they have something else that is approved for the purpose?

 

my mistake about the pan location.
there is a pan fix..asphalt I think.
but pan has to be clean and dry
and not rusted thru.

best of luck.

 

what about just leaving the insulation out of the inside and wrap the air handler with duct wrap, just a thought

 

I like it



How about a zipper for access

 

http://www.armacell.us/WWW/armacell...9E388CFD3159EC12576D20065B99E?OpenDocument&Nav=8F2B7376E5ACFEAFC125775E003369BA

Just about all insulation companies make fiber free duct liner if that's what you want, including Knauf, Rubatex and Owens Corning.

 

The problem I've found in insulating the unit with ductwrap..
and I've done it this way..is unit's support to drain pan..
be it bricks, styro blocks, metal supports or wooden framing..
that the area where the now externally insulated equipment
compresses it the ductwrap, so it condensates more. because R-value
of compressed insulation is R-0.
how much it condensates depends is comparable with area
of compressed insulation.