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Revolver

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, all day today I’ve been chasing the symptoms trying to find the cause of my problem. Was hoping you folks could visualize my observations and offer your thoughts if you don’t mind.

I have a York condenser, cooling only,
that I believe has a restriction inside of the outdoor unit. At startup, within 15 seconds my liquid line pressure drops down to 100, then 75, then 65 and offends the low pressure switch causing a temporary shutdown. Conversely at the same time my suction line pressure goes higher than I think it should. System behaved as if it was grossly undercharged no matter what I checked or did. Yes my indoor blower fan was functional.

York YCG24B21SB, 17 Seer, 2 ton cooling only.
3/4” and 3/8” copper lineset about 16 feet long.
First Co air handler 30k btu with hydro coil 30HBXB-HW. Installed vertically. Txv that’s OEM with the First Co air handler, Sporlan CP7325.

Factory charge for this ODU is 3 pounds 10 ounces (for a lineset up to 15 feet I believe) of r410a. Design pressures 448 high side, 236 low side.

Compressor was running 5.0 amps
Emerson ZP20K6E-PVF-130

Deducting refrigerant wasn’t going to help me.
I added 2 ounces of refrigerant (3 pounds 12 ounces total charge now) because the indoor coil is a 1/2 ton large and because the lineset was a foot or two long. Saw no difference.

I then added 6 ounces more, then another 6 ounces. Total charge now at that point was 4 pounds 12 ounces. Upon restarting the compressor I still had the same problem of the liquid line pressure dropping fast and too much. All things considered it was expected for the liquid line pressure to be really high now and that’s exactly what I found. Within that 15 seconds of runtime when my liquid line pressure was sinking my suction line pressure was skyrocketing above 400 psi when it was only 79°F outside.

I believe that my liquid line inside of the outdoor unit is restricted or somewhere further down that path but before the compressor inlet. Maybe up to and including the liquid-line service-valve. Somewhere like the 3/8” inlet to the aluminum manifold into the condenser coil, the manifold itself, all or most of the micro channel coil, the outlet manifold of the coil, it’s 1/2” o.d. Copper line leaving the coil going into the compressor or a stuck intake valve in the compressor.

My txv isn’t stuck closed. I suspected the tiny little filter dryer inside of the condenser unit may have been restricted, and I also noticed it was installed backwards to flow direction. It seems clear to me that refrigerant is stacking up at the service port of the liquid line service valve and new liquid refrigerant is not entering the liquid line.

So I recover the entire charge. Take a picture of the backwards-installed filter dryer before I partially disassemble the condenser housing in order to remove the suction service valve and the filter dryer. Using air pressure from my lips I was able to demonstrate that the filter drier flows much more freely in the direction that the flow arrow points. When I blew air backwards into the filter dryer as it was installed, I found a slight restriction which I guessed was 20 to 25% restriction.

Not anywhere near as big of a problem-cause as I thought it was going to be. But I’m going to make it right regardless. So I follow the path of refrigerant flow to eliminate possibilities.

I installed a new and larger filter dryer on the liquid line outside of condenser unit. I made absolutely certain that there was no restriction into, through and out of my liquid line service valve before attaching the outlet of that inside of the outdoor unit. I even puckered up and tried to blow air into the outdoor coil, but it was completely resistant to that.

Makes me wonder if there’s a shipping cap concealed at the inlet of the coil manifold that they forgot to take out before attaching the copper suction line. That transition between the copper suction line downstream of that service valve, and before the aluminum manifold header is concealed with a black piece of heat shrink tubing about 1 inch long. I then attached my new 3/8 copper bypass from the outlet of the suction-line service-valve and the 3/8” copper inlet stub just before the outdoor coil. RLS refrigerant press fittings driven by a Rigid RP200 short throw press tool.

Because the system was completely evacuated and my service valves are wide open I did an initial 250 psi pressure test and ate lunch.

Then I fully discharged that pressure twice out through the 1/4” flare at my suction-line service-valve while checking my Txv valve in two ways even though I expected the problem is not a stuck metering device, based on the symptoms explained way above.

First TXV test with the sensing bulb removed and immersed into a can of ice water. I expected the valve to be closed and found that to be reasonably true because I dumped pretty much all of my nitrogen pressure out through the suction-line service-valve in about 20 seconds while the liquid line pressure trailed down much more slowly. That’s because the TXV was “closed” mostly.

Second Txv test I pulled the sensing bulb out of the ice water can and warmed it up in my hand for about a minute. Left it dangling in the airstream that was probably about 75°F. Recharged both high and low side, including the outdoor unit with 250 psi of nitrogen. I expected with a warm sensing bulb to have a TXV it’s pretty much wide-open and that’s what I found. When I opened my manifold gauge to vent the liquid-line service-valve to atmosphere. I found that the pressure on the suction side drop much more quickly than last time, and it was very much nearly in unison with the high side pressure. Exactly as you’d expect with a wide open metering device. I still haven’t found the cause of the blockage outside of my unproven suspicion up to this point. Expecting the problem to continue but I’ve got to give it a try.

Pulled a triple evaluation procedure which included an oil change to the vacuum pump between my second and third pull downs during the nitrogen break. Below 200 µm and it held for 5 minutes while not rising above 300 µm. Nice and tight.

At this point it’s clear that the backwards installed filter dryer was not the cause of my problem. At the conclusion of my triple evaluation process I weigh in a refrigerant charge of 3 lbs. 12 oz. and still find the exact same problems happening.

The suction line pressure goes way up to like 350 within 15 seconds.

The liquid line drops to 100 and then 65 psi within 15 seconds. Overcharging it does nothing to increase the running pressure of the liquid line. Liquid line isn’t getting any refrigerant as I see it.

It did the same thing at some point today when I removed the refrigerant and ran just nitrogen and oil at 220 psi for starters for 15 seconds.

There’s something causing pressure to measurably stack up at the suction valve service port.

No doubt there’s nothing leaving out the liquid line. It’s behaving as if the liquid line service valve is closed. The valve was back seated (all the way up) so I tried a restart with the valve mid seated and that made no difference.

Because it’s an aluminum micro channel coil and a copper pipe, there’s some sort of black heat shrink over the adapter between those two metals.

I called my indoor sales guy at the supply shack who is very technically inclined and he understood everything I was telling him, but he was leaning towards the possibility of the TXV inside being the actual cause of the problem. Anything but the ODU he sold me!

If the TXV was stuck closed, for example, refrigerant would stack up before that metering device and I feel that would actually drop pressure measured at the suction service valve, not raise it. A stuck-closed txv would also raise pressure on the liquid line I believe and those two things are opposite of what’s actually happening.

During a warm sensing bulb moment the txv isn’t locking closed “tight as a bulls ass”. It’s bleeding through a little bit. I presume that is normal and certainly not a cause of my problem.

I plan to return to the job site Friday and kick ass problems ass. I am considering bringing with me a makeshift air handler unit as a bypass test device that I’m going pipe up with a 6 foot lineset at the ODU. I’m going to take an old coil and screw down through the drain pan to retain it to a blower fan assembly that still has the galvanized panel that it hangs off of. I need to look through that section of the scrap pile to find one that’s reasonably compatible in size. If it happens to be a fixed piston, orifice style at the chatleff valve, which size piston should I use? This is just a temporary test to show that there’s likely nothing wrong with the existing lineset, indoor coil or metering device.

Is my thought a possibility that a test cap/shipping cap may have been left on the outdoor coil inlet? This could have been just before the line worker at the assembly plant attached copper piping to the aluminum coil manifolds,

What might I be doing wrong?
What else should I check?
 
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I only got about 1/3 the way through your post until couldn't take anymore. The way you are describing things it seems clear that either you're straight up messing with us, or you don't know the difference between your suction and liquid lines or which direction the refrigerant is supposed be flowing.

The suction pressure can't be 400psi with a liquid line pressure of 65psi. Coupled with this information, I find it hard to believe that the filter drier was actually backwards inside of the condensing unit as you say it was.

Just for my own curiosity, if your pipes are 3/4" and 3/8", which one is the liquid line and which is the suction? Also, which way do you believe the arrow on the drier should be pointing (towards the house or away from the house)?
 
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Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
Sorry that I got so long winded. I need to simplify in general. I wonder if there’s a plugged screen hiding somewhere within that condenser unit.

It’s been 25 years since I got out of refrigeration school. My terminology needs some brushing up.
I’ll be perhaps the first to admit that I barely know the difference between my ass and a whole in the ground. But I’m trying to learn.

You ask if I understand basic refrigeration principles:
Cold liquid leaves the compressor and follows the fat liquid line towards the indoor evaporator coil.
Liquid refrigerant can flash to a wet and cold vapor at the piston and then saturate the majority of the evap coil or if it’s a txv system then the liquid refrigerant enters the evap coil and the refrigerant is metered on the outlet by the txv.
Regardless of which metering device is used, the liquid refrigerant boils by the end of the evaporator and then the hot vapor travels via the suction line back out to the condenser unit again to then pass through the filter drier, service valve, condenser coil and lastly the compressor to then restart the whole process all over again.

I wanted to type less verbal descriptions and post a few photos up from the job site but I couldn’t figure out how to post photos.
 
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I had a very similar situation on a freezer install. Compressor would start up, suction pressure would go down to almost nothing and in a matter of 30 seconds we would have 340psi on the high side when it should've been ~200 and it would trip the pressure safety switch.

Can't for the life of me remember what it was called and this was the only time I'd ever seen them but there was some valve that was supposed to do something in cold temperatures for efficiencies and blah blah that didn't end up applying to us because of our weather. it ended up giving us on the 2/4 units that had them. Ended up needing to take them out completely but the symptoms were all the same as what you're having.

I dont think it's likely that your system has one but you never know worth a quick look. the one on my units looked like a square piece of brass with 3 connections going into it.
 
Sorry that I got so long winded. I need to simplify in general. I wonder if there’s a plugged screen hiding somewhere within that condenser unit.

It’s been 25 years since I got out of refrigeration school. My terminology needs some brushing up.
I’ll be perhaps the first to admit that I barely know the difference between my ass and a whole in the ground. But I’m trying to learn.

You ask if I understand basic refrigeration principles:
Cold liquid leaves the compressor and follows the fat liquid line towards the indoor evaporator coil.
Liquid refrigerant can flash to a wet and cold vapor at the piston and then saturate the majority of the evap coil or if it’s a txv system then the liquid refrigerant enters the evap coil and the refrigerant is metered on the outlet by the txv.
Regardless of which metering device is used, the liquid refrigerant boils by the end of the evaporator and then the hot vapor travels via the suction line back out to the condenser unit again to then pass through the filter drier, service valve, condenser coil and lastly the compressor to then restart the whole process all over again.

I wanted to type less verbal descriptions and post a few photos up from the job site but I couldn’t figure out how to post photos.
What? The AC refrigerant cycle is identical to the refrigeration refrigerant cycle. You are describing your freon cycle wrong as all hell. Leaving the comp, the SH high press hi temp vapor enters the cond coil, Leaving the cond coil is a hi press hi temp LIQUID that is in the little line(liquid line) that is headed to the indoor coil. The TXV feeds atomized liquid droplets of low press,low temp freon into the evap coil. Out of the evap coil in the biggie suction line is low temp,low press SH vapor only. And the suction line vapor is headed toward the comp.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I’m sorry that I’ve turned anyone off by incorrectly describing the refrigeration cycle.

Can I briefly bypass the lineset and indoor coil with a different coil and metering device outside at the outdoor unit?

Can I bypass the lineset and indoor coil with a 3/4” x 3/8” coupling? I’d perform a triple evac and charge with nitrogen only to about 300 psi. For a brief test, would that cause any harm?
 
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Sorry that I got so long winded. I need to simplify in general. I wonder if there’s a plugged screen hiding somewhere within that condenser unit.

It’s been 25 years since I got out of refrigeration school. My terminology needs some brushing up.
I’ll be perhaps the first to admit that I barely know the difference between my ass and a whole in the ground. But I’m trying to learn.

You ask if I understand basic refrigeration principles:
Cold liquid leaves the compressor and follows the fat liquid line towards the indoor evaporator coil.
Liquid refrigerant can flash to a wet and cold vapor at the piston and then saturate the majority of the evap coil or if it’s a txv system then the liquid refrigerant enters the evap coil and the refrigerant is metered on the outlet by the txv.
Regardless of which metering device is used, the liquid refrigerant boils by the end of the evaporator and then the hot vapor travels via the suction line back out to the condenser unit again to then pass through the filter drier, service valve, condenser coil and lastly the compressor to then restart the whole process all over again.

I wanted to type less verbal descriptions and post a few photos up from the job site but I couldn’t figure out how to post photos.
Interesting. Sorry I doubted you. I'll bet you've found and corrected a lot of backwards filter driers over the years! I don't know what's going on with your unit, but good luck! :munching:
 
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I’m sorry that I’ve turned anyone off by incorrectly describing the refrigeration cycle.

Can I briefly bypass the lineset and indoor coil with a different coil and metering device outside at the outdoor unit?

Can I bypass the lineset and indoor coil with a 3/4” x 3/8” coupling? I’d perform a triple evac and charge with nitrogen only to about 300 psi. For a brief test, would that cause any harm?
If you are asking if you can install a temporary air handler with a metering device and evaporator coil outside right next to your condensing unit, I say sure, why not?

If you are asking if you can just take the 2 lines coming out of your condensing unit and hook them together, then NO. That's not going to work very well.
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
Just trying to find my roadblock.

Could I temporarily cut out the compressor discharge line and blow nitrogen through that out of the low side service valve to prove there’s no obstruction there?

Could I do the same with the outdoor coil?
 
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Discussion starter · #13 ·
So a 3/4” x 3/8” coupling as a field test metering device won’t build up enough back pressure behind it I suppose?

A cap tube, or other respected metering device and in theory this test should work ok?

I’m looking to make a test that causes my problem symptom to disappear.
 
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Am I missing any mention of discharge pressure? Suction higher than ll?
Need full log readings. Log readings take ~15 -30 minutes. Why waste a couple of days experimenting?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Because it kept bouncing off the pressure switch regardless of varied refrigerant charge and I believe there is no flow leaving via the the low side service valve.
 
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Who is paying for all of this experimenting, labor, parts? Can you re-roll the copper to use someplace else? Care to re-explain everything all over again, w/your new understanding of the refrig cycle?

Don't worry about making mistakes or lack of understanding of how things work. Re-study, re-think, re-learn. Many of us did similar screwups.
 
I had a Goodman heat pump that had a externally equalized TXV at the air handler and the installer didn’t take out the
Schrader valve when he hooked up the equalizer port. The equalizer port flare nut didn’t have the valve depressor and the condenser would “pump down” . Just sayin….
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Discharge temperature during time of decent towards pressure switch offense was like 23 degrees.

I got scared because my high side pressure was near 450 psi at the same time.

I’m paying for this experimenting as a one man band.
 
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