HVAC-Talk: Heating, Air & Refrigeration Discussion banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Church Boiler Install

Jump to Latest
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
M

Metalman0880

· Professional Member*
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Just about finished up with this job. Pulled out an old American Standard 1.5 million BTU boiler. Sized everything and went back with 2 boilers. Front one is 750,000 BTU, rear is 500,000 BTU. The old system was running off pneumatic controls and most of it was bypassed. Installed a Tekmar 261 2 Stage set up for lead and lag w/ rotation running the house pump. 1 common WiFi thermostat for the system now. New expansion tank up in the ceiling also. 72” x 24”. Per the MFG we could reduce the flue pipe size on both for direct vent with Stainless Duravent. Also replaced the kitchen HWT 75 Gallon and Potable HWT 40 Gallon with powervent. Ditched the steel recirc pump and replaced with a bronze and iso flanges.




Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#2 ·
Nice looking job.
I like the P/S although I'm just not a fan of a ball valve for the bypass on the boiler protection-despite what the manual says.
 
#3 ·
Yessir. Very nice. Way to keep em straight looks great man. That’s a serious expansion tank too. I like the speed and look of the joint with propress. But when you get into bigger stuff it seems to have a mind of its own when pressing it. I can make my sweat joints straight like that but do you have trouble keeping pipe spreads/ level/plumb when your pressing it too?
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Pres1227 said:
Yessir. Very nice. Way to keep em straight looks great man. That’s a serious expansion tank too. I like the speed and look of the joint with propress. But when you get into bigger stuff it seems to have a mind of its own when pressing it. I can make my sweat joints straight like that but do you have trouble keeping pipe spreads/ level/plumb when your pressing it too?
Click to expand...
With the bigger pipe, normally you always have a second pair of hands there and it pays off having them. One guy holding the pipe and level and the other one presses. Usually get 4-5 joints ready to go and press them all at once.

I do remember when we got our first pro press and could of never imagined pressing an entire job. Times change. Only 3 joints on that entire job are sweat. Just a 3”x2” red coupl on the building return main. Everything else was thread or press. Besides a couple flanges needing adjusting no leaks.

My Milwaukee pro press died during the job sent that off for repairs and luckily we just replaced an older RP330 with the new RP340. That thing presses 2” quick. Have a steam job coming up and will be mega pressing some 4” black iron. That should be fun.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
All of that piping will be threaded. We’re just making the final connection in megapress that’s the plan anyways. We will see when it gets that far. But I’ve used megapress quite a bit on steam with no issues thus far. We can thread up to 4” in house but the amount of time it takes back and forth kills ya.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Gwing21 said:
Looks like you have a 2in Inline Pump connected directly to the Boiler.....Normally would have a braided flex connection for ani-vibration
Click to expand...
There is a 2” steel nipple coming out of the boiler to a flange, then pump, then flange, then male adapter. I fail to see the need for a 2” flex line. The MFG dose not recommend nor require such fitting.

I do understand thermal dynamics along with that pipe expanding and contracting with hot and cold. But in this particular set of circumstances it was not needed or implied by the mfg to be necessary.

Not trying to come off as sarcastic, if you know something I don’t or have a valid reason I’m all ears to learn something.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#11 ·
Metalman0880 said:
There is a 2” steel nipple coming out of the boiler to a flange, then pump, then flange, then male adapter. I fail to see the need for a 2” flex line. The MFG dose not recommend nor require such fitting.

I do understand thermal dynamics along with that pipe expanding and contracting with hot and cold. But in this particular set of circumstances it was not needed or implied by the mfg to be necessary.

Not trying to come off as sarcastic, if you know something I don’t or have a valid reason I’m all ears to learn something.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Me either, up here anything over 1 1/2” connected close to the Boiler like that, we would add a Flex in there for any vibration. No biggie either way, was just a question.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#13 ·
I honestly don’t have the slightest clue as to what I am looking at. South Florida tech, never seen a boiler before.

But the pipe work looks amazing!!!
How long did it take to install all of it?
 
Save
Like Like
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
About this Discussion
16 Replies
7 Participants
Last post:
lzenglish
HVAC-Talk: Heating, Air & Refrigeration Discussion
posts
5M
members
275K
Since
2000
The #1 HVACR Community
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
AOP Residential HVAC/Refrigeration(Beenthere Zone) General Discussion Tech to Tech Chat - Residential Controls Refrigeration & Ice Making