[dazler]

Hi, stopping by to get some input on what is the average if any for a Energy Star rated house humidity level build this year.

As it seem I cant get my house no where near 50%, is always at 60% with spikes to 65%R/H. Even using the bathroom exhaust.
House located Central Florida

Here are some numbers from the provided Energy Star Certificate:
Air Infiltration test: 3.37 ACH50
Window U Value 0.33, SHGC 0.23
Total Duct leakage: 2.9 CFM25 per 100 sq. ft.
Central Unit 14 SEER
HERS Index of 56

I talked to the house warranty center since it came with the 1st year of full cover. They put a work order for a A/C Balance to help with the humidity.

The tech came and looked at the system, walked around the house with a tool I guess it was a humidity sensor not sure, and then he proceeded to lower the Temp from 76F @60% Humidity to 70F.
The system kicked in and then he showed me that my sensor was slowly going down from 60R/H 59 58. Pretty much he told me at this point that the system was working.
Then He mention that it was going to be difficult because of the split system with dual T-Stat he say the one T-Stat in the main house would request air but if the one in the extra room upstairs kick in then they would be fighting for the airflow, to lower the R/H.

He also told me that my system was good, as you have good better and best.
that with the split setup I have the norm was going to be 60% unless I lower the temp of the house to 74,73. But then that would be to chilly and electric bill would be higher. And I guess after it settle at that temp the R/H would rise again.

He recommended a UV light to kill the mold in the handler coils, to keep using a MERV 8 filter and to flush with 1/2 gallon of hot water the drain line.


Is this completely normal?
Should I keep calling the builder to come with a fix to this?
I asked before for the manual J but got no response from the builder, that when they send me the energy star report.
As is my understanding to be Energy Star they have to do one and Manual D right?


Thank you for taking the time to read this.

 

[stvc]

There is too much to type right now but do you realize that a rated score of 56 is bad?
To be energy star it would have to score at least 86.

 

[dan sw fl]

There is too much to type right now but do you realize that a rated score of 56 is bad?
To be energy star it would have to score at least 86.

I understand HERS Index of 56 is FANTASTIC.
The lower the number, the more efficient the residence.
.. 56 compared to 160 ... very poor rating is 3 X BETTER

SEE LINK... http://www.resnet.us/energy-rating
----------------------------

To calculate a home’s HERS Index Score, a certified RESNET Home Energy Rater will do a
home energy rating and compare the data against a 'reference home' –
a design modeled home of the same size and shape as the actual home,
so the HERS Index Score is always relative to the size, shape and type of house you live in.

The lower the number, the more energy efficient the home.
--------------------------
WHAT SIZE HOUSE AND HEAT PUMP?

How much run time ? 5, 10 or 15 hours per day?
FPL Electric bills (review of account on-line) will tell you everything you need to know.
Is your utility FPL or Duke Energy or xx?

 

[dan sw fl]

My house in SW FL and equipment is nothing special.
2001 built - 1800 Sq ft - 3 ton -10 SEER ARMSTRONG

However, with long runs, times the Relative Humidity IS CONSISTENTLY < 42% AT 77'F.

My Summer time average electric bills are $45 more than winter.
Monthly average of $86/ month over both the last year and 10 years.
In other words, electric rate and use have been constant for a decade.

I have electronic records of my last 145 FPL bills / rate & use.

 

[beenthere]

What size home, how many occupants, what size A/C?

 

[energy_rater_La]

energy star as I understand it has the goal of zero energy.
so the best scores are the lower numbers.

ditto questions in post above.

best of luck

 

[teddy bear]

On a hot day with normal cooling @75^F and normal winds, I would expect 75^F, 50%RH.
What do you have for fresh air ventilation and how much do use it? Number of occupants?
Was temperature and %RH discussed? Also what is the temp/%RH during wet cool weather?

Good luck and keep us posted.
Regards Teddy Bear

 

[udarrell]

Perhaps the A/C system is oversized...?

Get others to help you do a free online load-calc:
http://www.loadcalc.net/

Also, is the system working properly?

Time for you to run an easy, totally safe, A/C Performance test of your own. No Kids; do not lay anything on top of the outdoor condenser, & hang onto the thermometer so it doesn't drop into the condenser fan blades!

All you need is a good air-temp probe thermometer (digital reading in tenths preferable) an HVAC Supply might sell you one; or use your mercury TH & estimate the tenths; if you don't have a humidity gauge, you need to get one ASAP; a low cost 'INDOOR Humidity Monitor' - ACU-RITE Digital only $8.94 at Wall-Mart or over the Internet; it shows you if %RH is OK; plus records high & low Humidity & Temps during a 24 hour period.
Check to see if it registers the temperature correctly; if not, take it back for a full refund.

If we find problems, you will need to contact & qualify a good HVAC Contractor to fix those performance problems.

1) Outdoor condenser’s discharge-air-temperature ___°F
Subtract Outdoor air temperature: __°F

Outdoor Condenser Air-Temp-Split ___°F
Condenser’s SEER Rating or Year Mfg'ered on Name Plate _____________

2) Need the ‘Indoor’ percent of relative humidity - in the middle of the rooms or, at Return-Air inlet grilles ___%RH

3) Indoor Return Air Temperature __°F Indoor Supply-Air Temperature __°F
Subtract Indoor Supply-Air Temp from Return Air Temp __°F
Indoor temperature-split = __°F

We ought to have superheat & sub-cooling temps by Tech _________________.
If you know; TXV or piston metering device? _______

“Reply with Quote” Or, Copy & paste in your Reply; Fill the #numbers in where the blanks are.”
Easy Safe testing of your A/C or heat pump cooling performance for all forum visitors to useTime for you to run an easy, totally safe, A/C Performance test of your own. No Kids; do not lay anything on top of the outdoor condenser, & hang onto the thermometer so it doesn't drop into the condenser fan blades!

All you need is a good air-temp probe thermometer (digital reading in tenths preferable) an HVAC Supply might sell you one; or use your mercury TH & estimate the tenths; if you don't have a humidity gauge, you need to get one ASAP; a low cost 'INDOOR Humidity Monitor' - ACU-RITE Digital only $8.94 at Wall-Mart or over the Internet; it shows you if %RH is OK; plus records high & low Humidity & Temps during a 24 hour period.
Check to see if it registers the temperature correctly; if not, take it back for a full refund.

If we find problems, you will need to contact & qualify a good HVAC Contractor to fix those performance problems.

1) Outdoor condenser’s discharge-air-temperature ___°F
Subtract Outdoor air temperature: __°F

Outdoor Condenser Air-Temp-Split ___°F
Condenser’s SEER Rating or Year Mfg'ered on Name Plate _____________

2) Need the ‘Indoor’ percent of relative humidity - in the middle of the rooms or, at Return-Air inlet grilles ___%RH

3) Indoor Return Air Temperature __°F Indoor Supply-Air Temperature __°F
Subtract Indoor Supply-Air Temp from Return Air Temp __°F
Indoor temperature-split = __°F

We ought to have superheat & sub-cooling temps by Tech _________________.
If you know; TXV or piston metering device? _______

“Reply with Quote” Or, Copy & paste in your Reply; Fill the #numbers in where the blanks are.”
Easy Safe testing of your A/C or heat pump cooling performance for all forum visitors to useTime for you to run an easy, totally safe, A/C Performance test of your own. No Kids; do not lay anything on top of the outdoor condenser, & hang onto the thermometer so it doesn't drop into the condenser fan blades!

All you need is a good air-temp probe thermometer (digital reading in tenths preferable) an HVAC Supply might sell you one; or use your mercury TH & estimate the tenths; if you don't have a humidity gauge, you need to get one ASAP; a low cost 'INDOOR Humidity Monitor' - ACU-RITE Digital only $8.94 at Wall-Mart or over the Internet; it shows you if %RH is OK; plus records high & low Humidity & Temps during a 24 hour period.
Check to see if it registers the temperature correctly; if not, take it back for a full refund.

If we find problems, you will need to contact & qualify a good HVAC Contractor to fix those performance problems.

1) Outdoor condenser’s discharge-air-temperature ___°F
Subtract Outdoor air temperature: __°F

Outdoor Condenser Air-Temp-Split ___°F
Condenser’s SEER Rating or Year Mfg'ered on Name Plate _____________

2) Need the ‘Indoor’ percent of relative humidity - in the middle of the rooms or, at Return-Air inlet grilles ___%RH

3) Indoor Return Air Temperature __°F Indoor Supply-Air Temperature __°F
Subtract Indoor Supply-Air Temp from Return Air Temp __°F
Indoor temperature-split = __°F

We ought to have superheat & sub-cooling temps by Tech _________________.
If you know; TXV or piston metering device? _______

“Reply with Quote” Or, Copy & paste in your Reply; Fill the #numbers in where the blanks are.”
Easy Safe testing of your A/C or heat pump cooling performance for all forum visitors to use: if any problems, call a contractor..

 

[dazler]

Thank you all for the reply

just stopping by to inform I will try to provide more information tonight once I get back from work.

 

[dazler]

WHAT SIZE HOUSE AND HEAT PUMP?
First floor2061 and Second Floor 545 for a total of 2606

How much run time ? 5, 10 or 15 hours per day?
No clue, would I have to buy one of this http://www.onsetcomp.com/products/data-loggers/ux90-004
FPL Electric bills (review of account on-line) will tell you everything you need to know.
Is your utility FPL or Duke Energy or xx?
Is with OUC. July 1650 KWH, Aug 1538 KWH, Sep 1361 KWH
Those all are my record we moved in the house in June

My house in SW FL and equipment is nothing special.
2001 built - 1800 Sq ft - 3 ton -10 SEER ARMSTRONG

However, with long runs, times the Relative Humidity IS CONSISTENTLY < 42% AT 77'F.
That's way better than my Energy Star rated house. I cant believe mine sits at around 60%

My Summer time average electric bills are $45 more than winter.
Monthly average of $86/ month over both the last year and 10 years.
In other words, electric rate and use have been constant for a decade.
$188 for July, $174 Aug, $143 Sep. The first 1,000KWH is at $0.10 after that is at $0.12. You have it good if you only pay $86

I have electronic records of my last 145 FPL bills / rate & use.

What size home, how many occupants, what size A/C?

As of the last 2 months, 3 adults, 4 kids. Goodman GSZ130421 3.5 Ton, Goodman ASPT42D14 3.5 Ton

On a hot day with normal cooling @75^F and normal winds, I would expect 75^F, 50%RH.
What do you have for fresh air ventilation and how much do use it? Number of occupants?
Was temperature and %RH discussed? Also what is the temp/%RH during wet cool weather?

Good luck and keep us posted.
Regards Teddy Bear

For fresh air the house came with a honeywell whole house ventilation controller but the different tech that have come work on the AC during the hot summer told me to keep it off as it would increase the RH% in the house.
And to control the zones it have the honeywell hz221
I do not have a log of outside temps/R/H
_______________________________

Hopefully I answered all of the question. I know I dint even touched the last one.
Hope this help target better a solution.

Thank you all.

 

[beenthere]

7 occupants, tight house. I think your gonna need a whole house dehumidifier.

 

[teddy bear]

Seven occupants in an air tight home and no fresh air, You need a minimum of 100 cfm of fresh air to purge indoor pollutants and renew oxygen when occupied.
100 cfm of +70^F dew point outdoor fresh air and seven occupants could be 4lbs. + 3lbs.= 7lbs. per hour of moisture per hour to maintain 75^F, 50%RH, 55 dew point indoors
A properly setup 3.5 a/c operating continuously removes 10 lbs. of moisture per hour. You have two 3.5 a/cs????
Two 3.5 operating 30 mins on/30 mins off will remove 5 lbs. total. The reason is that short cycles interrupt the dehumidification/moisture loading of the coil-pan/re-evaporation of moisture back to the house during the off cycle.
Start by confirming a <45^F coil temperature on each a/c. Next operate only one a/c continuously with one in the cooler space off. During high cooling loads, should get you near 50%RH.
During evenings and rainy days, you need a minimum of 6 lbs./pints per supplemental dehumidification.
If you can afford it, I would put an Ultra-Aire XT105H on each a/c. If not than use an Ultra-Aire XT155H on the a/c with the fresh air. Connect the fresh air to the dehumidifier.
Confirm that you really have 2 a/cs or 1?
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Regards Teddy Bear

 

[snupytcb]

wit the house being so tight 3.5 tons of a/c might be a bit big which won't remove humidity like it should. you could be dealing with a couple different issues right now. the fresh air intake should really be operating. it could bring added humidity into the house but you have equipment to remove it. the health of your family is far more important than a little humidity, especially when you already have the equipment in place to remove the humidity.
there is a reason the add these units to a home, it needs air change. has the contractor been there yet?

 

[dazler]

7 occupants, tight house. I think your gonna need a whole house dehumidifier.

Hi, just what I dint want to hear.
I wonder if they installer the right size AC and Ducts.

Anyone know what is the average cost to have a Pro do a manual J and D to a new house?

Seven occupants in an air tight home and no fresh air, You need a minimum of 100 cfm of fresh air to purge indoor pollutants and renew oxygen when occupied.
100 cfm of +70^F dew point outdoor fresh air and seven occupants could be 4lbs. + 3lbs.= 7lbs. per hour of moisture per hour to maintain 75^F, 50%RH, 55 dew point indoors
A properly setup 3.5 a/c operating continuously removes 10 lbs. of moisture per hour. You have two 3.5 a/cs????
Two 3.5 operating 30 mins on/30 mins off will remove 5 lbs. total. The reason is that short cycles interrupt the dehumidification/moisture loading of the coil-pan/re-evaporation of moisture back to the house during the off cycle.
Start by confirming a <45^F coil temperature on each a/c. Next operate only one a/c continuously with one in the cooler space off. During high cooling loads, should get you near 50%RH.
During evenings and rainy days, you need a minimum of 6 lbs./pints per supplemental dehumidification.
If you can afford it, I would put an Ultra-Aire XT105H on each a/c. If not than use an Ultra-Aire XT155H on the a/c with the fresh air. Connect the fresh air to the dehumidifier.
Confirm that you really have 2 a/cs or 1?
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Regards Teddy Bear

I listed two part numbers one is for the outside unit the other for the unit inside the house, im not sure the technical name for each one. But I assume is only 1 AC system that have 2 thermostats on for the 1st floor then another thermostats for the bonus room that is about 545 sq ft. Is not a full size 2 story house. But the bonus room include a bathroom, 1 room and 1 loft all that equal 545 sq ft.
The last tech that stopped by told me is a split system or damper if I recall. That close and open to deliver air to the 2nd floor.

I just moved the ventilation switch to the ON position, I turned it off due to a AC tech recommendation during the summer when they came to see why it was not cooling the house.

We left the house today for about 7 hrs and left the AC at 80F to see if that lower the R/H.
Once I came back here are some readings
AC t-stat 79F 56% this sensor is on top of the 1st floor t-stat that is also right under the return air filter
master bath 81F 54%
2nd floor bath 78F 57%
AC closet 75F 66%
kitchen 79F 56%
outside 87F 51%

Before I left numbers
AC T-sat 76F 59% this sensor is on top of the 1st floor t-stat that is also right under the return air filter
master bath 76F 58F
2nd floor bath 77F 67%
AC closet 73F 65%
kitchen 76F 58%
outside 81F 78%

after I got home today I put it back to 76F. After over 3 hours back in I took the time of one of the On,Off cycles and it stayed On for 18min Off 10min On 11min on that last cycle it actually stayed On longer but it was not supplying air to the 1st floor that's why I stopped the timer. On the last cycle it stayed On for another 5min only sending that air to the 2nd floor.
of course the whole 1st floor was not at 76F yet as it seem it dont cool all the house at the same time.

wit the house being so tight 3.5 tons of a/c might be a bit big which won't remove humidity like it should. you could be dealing with a couple different issues right now. the fresh air intake should really be operating. it could bring added humidity into the house but you have equipment to remove it. the health of your family is far more important than a little humidity, especially when you already have the equipment in place to remove the humidity.
there is a reason the add these units to a home, it needs air change. has the contractor been there yet?

Hi I turned the ventilation back On thank you guys for the advice.
I talked to the home builder warranty representative about the humidity being around 60% and He called the HVAC company that did the work as they have a contract with this builder. The HVAC tech pretty much told me I should expect that in this house due to the split system. that they install the AC system accordingly to the budget the builder set or something like that.

I am almost positive they installed the system just by SQ FT and not following the standards.
I will keep taking reading this week when there would be only 2 adult in the house as the little children go to kinder for about 3 hours and see how much lower the R/H get at the end of that 3 hour.
I be taking readings at around 900 am and 1200 and then around 700pm.
Let see how it would work now that I have the ventilation On.

 

[teddy bear]

Hi, just what I dint want to hear.
I wonder if they installer the right size AC and Ducts.

I listed two part numbers one is for the outside unit the other for the unit inside the house, im not sure the technical name for each one. But I assume is only 1 AC system that have 2 thermostats on for the 1st floor then another thermostats for the bonus room that is about 545 sq ft. Is not a full size 2 story house. But the bonus room include a bathroom, 1 room and 1 loft all that equal 545 sq ft.
The last tech that stopped by told me is a split system or damper if I recall. That close and open to deliver air to the 2nd floor.

I just moved the ventilation switch to the ON position, I turned it off due to a AC tech recommendation during the summer when they came to see why it was not cooling the house.

We left the house today for about 7 hrs and left the AC at 80F to see if that lower the R/H.
Once I came back here are some readings
AC t-stat 79F 56% this sensor is on top of the 1st floor t-stat that is also right under the return air filter
master bath 81F 54%
2nd floor bath 78F 57%
AC closet 75F 66%
kitchen 79F 56%
outside 87F 51%

Before I left numbers
AC T-sat 76F 59% this sensor is on top of the 1st floor t-stat that is also right under the return air filter
master bath 76F 58F
2nd floor bath 77F 67%
AC closet 73F 65%
kitchen 76F 58%
outside 81F 78%

after I got home today I put it back to 76F. After over 3 hours back in I took the time of one of the On,Off cycles and it stayed On for 18min Off 10min On 11min on that last cycle it actually stayed On longer but it was not supplying air to the 1st floor that's why I stopped the timer. On the last cycle it stayed On for another 5min only sending that air to the 2nd floor.
of course the whole 1st floor was not at 76F yet as it seem it dont cool all the house at the same time.




Hi I turned the ventilation back On thank you guys for the advice.
I talked to the home builder warranty representative about the humidity being around 60% and He called the HVAC company that did the work as they have a contract with this builder. The HVAC tech pretty much told me I should expect that in this house due to the split system. that they install the AC system accordingly to the budget the builder set or something like that.

I am almost positive they installed the system just by SQ FT and not following the standards.
I will keep taking reading this week when there would be only 2 adult in the house as the little children go to kinder for about 3 hours and see how much lower the R/H get at the end of that 3 hour.
I be taking readings at around 900 am and 1200 and then around 700pm.
Let see how it would work now that I have the ventilation On.

Turn the fresh air "off" when the home is unoccupied. How long did the a/c operated when you returned cooling from 80^F down to 76^F? Those cool downs are good times to get a feel for how good the setup is.
A couple hours of operating cooling house down from 80^F to 76^F should get the indoor %RH near 50% RH. If not, you have possibly to much air flow. Collecting the condensate for an extended run also indicates the proper setup. A proper setup a/c will remove 3 lbs. per hour per ton. If you find 7-9 lbs. of condensate, excess air leakage could be a problem. If less condensate, your tech should check the coil temperature, should be <45^F with 75^F, 50%RH return air.
Get a good tech into this. There is no excuse to not get this a/c setup right. Slowing the air flow will extend the length of "on" cycle.
You will need a whole house dehumidifier with 6 lbs. per hour capacity during low/no cooling loads and high outdoor dew points to maintain 50% from air infiltration and occupant moisture. This evenings and rainy weather.
Keep us posted.
Regards Teddy Bear

 

[udarrell]

after I got home today I put it back to 76F. After over 3 hours back in I took the time of one of the On/Off cycles and it stayed On for 18min Off 10min On 11min on that last cycle it actually stayed On longer but it was not supplying air to the 1st floor that's why I stopped the timer.

On the last cycle it stayed On for another 5min only sending that air to the 2nd floor.
of course the whole 1st floor was not at 76F yet as it seems it don't cool all the house at the same time.

I'm not sure what you're actually telling us there; but 'off-time' seems way too short.
Furniture & other materials not near room temp yet?

18-on 10-off is 28-mins; 18/28 is .643% of say 34500 s 22,178-Btuh to maintain TH setpoint.

 

[Shophound]

Hi, just what I dint want to hear.
I wonder if they installer the right size AC and Ducts.

Anyone know what is the average cost to have a Pro do a manual J and D to a new house?

Finding somebody who is good at doing a Manual J on a high performance house like yours can be a challenge.

I am almost positive they installed the system just by SQ FT and not following the standards.
I will keep taking reading this week when there would be only 2 adult in the house as the little children go to kinder for about 3 hours and see how much lower the R/H get at the end of that 3 hour.
I be taking readings at around 900 am and 1200 and then around 700pm.
Let see how it would work now that I have the ventilation On.

ESINO (Energy Star In Name Only)? :eek2: Hard for me to imagine a good Energy Star program would allow a contractor to size HVAC by square feet per ton. If the "rule of thumb" method for square foot per ton method was used here, you may have five tons downstairs and 1.5 tons upstairs. And if that's true that's WAY too much capacity for an airtight house.

If I recall, your house is in Florida. And if that's true, you can't bring in fresh air from outside without first dehumidifying it. If you're depending on the start/stop nature of your HVAC system to control humidity introduced by a constant intake of humid outdoor air, it won't happen.

Bottom line: you need supplemental dehumidification, such as a ventilating dehumidifier.

 

[dan sw fl]

OUC digital meters provide an enormous benefit in the analysis of your house thermal characteristics
and ACTUAL A/C run % times.

http://www.ouc.com/residential/my-meter/digital-meters

 

[dazler]

Turn the fresh air "off" when the home is unoccupied. How long did the a/c operated when you returned cooling from 80^F down to 76^F? Those cool downs are good times to get a feel for how good the setup is.
A couple hours of operating cooling house down from 80^F to 76^F should get the indoor %RH near 50% RH. If not, you have possibly to much air flow. Collecting the condensate for an extended run also indicates the proper setup. A proper setup a/c will remove 3 lbs. per hour per ton. If you find 7-9 lbs. of condensate, excess air leakage could be a problem. If less condensate, your tech should check the coil temperature, should be <45^F with 75^F, 50%RH return air.
Get a good tech into this. There is no excuse to not get this a/c setup right. Slowing the air flow will extend the length of "on" cycle.
You will need a whole house dehumidifier with 6 lbs. per hour capacity during low/no cooling loads and high outdoor dew points to maintain 50% from air infiltration and occupant moisture. This evenings and rainy weather.
Keep us posted.
Regards Teddy Bear

thank for the tip, will follow it. Vent off when we leave the house.
I am sorry to inform I did not took that reading of the initial run time after we got back in the house from 80F to 76F I do know that the whole house did not cool to 76F at the same time.
Thank for the info on the condensate lbs, but that seem, sound pretty advance for me to check on my own.
Wow it seem that even with energy star homes you still need to purchase a dehumidifier, I was not expecting that.

The Energy star certificate have this words: A high efficiency heating, cooling and ventilation system that is designed and installed for optimal performance.
I guess they dont take humidity level in consideration. But make no sense since they have this on their webpage, Indoor humidity levels between 30% and 50% are ideal.

I'm not sure what you're actually telling us there; but 'off-time' seems way too short.
Furniture & other materials not near room temp yet?

18-on 10-off is 28-mins; 18/28 is .643% of say 34500 s 22,178-Btuh to maintain TH setpoint.

Yes I took the time of the AC running, the house was already semi cool at around 76, I was not able to take the time from 80F to 76F.
But I will do another test and ask the wife to take the AC time if not I do it tomorrow after I get back from work around 400 PM.
As 80 would feel to hot, I will set it up to 79 or 78F and see how long the AC run before it turn off on the first cycle back to 76F.
I have like 5 sensors in different locations and not all of them had the same reading of 76F.

Finding somebody who is good at doing a Manual J on a high performance house like yours can be a challenge.

ESINO (Energy Star In Name Only)? :eek2: Hard for me to imagine a good Energy Star program would allow a contractor to size HVAC by square feet per ton. If the "rule of thumb" method for square foot per ton method was used here, you may have five tons downstairs and 1.5 tons upstairs. And if that's true that's WAY too much capacity for an airtight house.

If I recall, your house is in Florida. And if that's true, you can't bring in fresh air from outside without first dehumidifying it. If you're depending on the start/stop nature of your HVAC system to control humidity introduced by a constant intake of humid outdoor air, it won't happen.

Bottom line: you need supplemental dehumidification, such as a ventilating dehumidifier.

that not good to hear about finding a good contractor for a house like this would be a challenge.
It seem that the tech that come by are in a hurry to get to the next service call.
Yes house is in FL.
I did not wanted to get into a bad mouthing any specific company/contractor.
But to tell you the truth After we moved in the house I noticed that 5 light bulbs were incandescent, yes that right a Energy Star home got certified having 5 incandescent light bulbs.
I contacted the warranty Dept and they told me let us verify, and a few day later they changed the lights out for CFL.
Also the Energy star certificate stated energy start appliances - I looked at all the model numbers and the only one energy star is the dishwasher. I am still waiting for the warranty dept. to get back to me on that one.
So maybe ESINO does exist.

After those finding and having the humidity at around 60% got me to post here to get advice, I dont even know if I should trust the rest of the numbers provided in the certificate.
I think this house was not property inspected or they just copy paste certificates and moved on to the next house.


On another note my wife forgot to take the reading today at 900am and only took the one at 1200 but she forgot to get the R/H.
I hope tomorrow she takes all the numbers.

 

[dan sw fl]

Energy Star rated house humidity level build this year.

As it seem I cant get my house no where near 50%,
is always at 60% with spikes to 65%R/H. Even using the bathroom exhaust.
House located Central Florida

Here are some numbers from the provided Energy Star Certificate:
Air Infiltration test: 3.37 ACH50
Window U Value 0.33, SHGC 0.23
Total Duct leakage: 2.9 CFM25 per 100 sq. ft.
Central Unit 14 SEER
HERS Index of 56

to keep using a MERV 8 filter and to flush with 1/2 gallon of hot water the drain line.

Is this completely normal?
Should I keep calling the builder to come with a fix to this?

I asked before for the manual J but got no response from the builder, that when they send me the energy star report.
As is my understanding to be Energy Star they have to do one and Manual D right?

Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Run time when it's > 89'F Outside should be close to CONTINUOUS ( > 75% / 45 minutes per hour).

Summer afternoons should have > 6 hours straight run times.

... More Later on sizing for 2,600 Sq feet