[MrMcGoo]

I'm replaceing my old AC and electric resistance with a complete Trane system. The condenser is a 4TWX6036B with a variable speed air handler, 4TEE3F40B. There is plaenty of 4 AWG Al wire to the electric resistance heat that is going out. The Goodman 3T AC is on a 30 amp 220 disconnect.

They say that they will bring electrical up to code, but the "engineer" says that the condenser can keep the 30 amp service while the plate on the condenser will read 40 amps. (I have every manual google can find for my new equipment.) Then there is the issue of Oxy-acet brazing versus soldering, nitrogen purge etc.

I've hired a good contractor that is giving a 5 year labor warranty. If the pros are good, my policy is to have a clean work site ready for them and to keep out of their way except when they need to be pointed at locations etc.

When they show up, what do you recommend, given that I want the work done right the first time and that there are so many ways to foul up the install?

Bill

 

[MrMcGoo]

Thanks for all of the good recommendations.

When I said I was going to clean the work areas prior to the crew's arrival, the wife rolled her eyes. (She doesn't like to move or remove her junk that is in the way. Oh well!)

I do get a chuckel at the dismay that comes out over the heating output of the 16i. The engineering is elegant on the 16i. A scroll compressor should get good heat out of the vents with a variable speed blower, low btus not withstanding. The slope of the decrease in output as temperature drops is less on the 16i than most other heat pumps.

The btus are down about 8% at 47*F on the 3T 16i, but btus are as good as just about any 3T at 17*F where you actually need the most output. Trane's apparent philosophy is to get the most out of the 8% higher efficiency of R410A by use of less electricity. How many folks really need full output at 47*F? (I can heat my house on two small electric spece heaters at 47*F.) The coefficient of performance on the 16i is good: 4.06 @ 47*F and 2.96 @ 17*F.

I do have it in my email that they have agreed to stage the heat strips.

I'm going with the Trane Tstat. An $800 rebate is a big incentive to see it Trane's way. (I suspect that Trane dislikes other brands of Tstats when not set up correctly and Trane has to warranty the compressor.)

I'm going to gently insist on oxy-act brazing per the Trane intallation instrctions. Isn't the Internet and Google wonderful!!! Anyone can be an expert.

Bill

 

[MrMcGoo]

Dirty laundry is nothing...the overflowing cat box next to the furnace is my favorite!

We have a big, hairy dog with a good disposition. I suspect he can find something to contribute. We were going to take him to the groomer for the day, but it looks like he'll go to the park instead because the groomer is not taking dogs that day.

Part of the cleanup is to move some of his toys, two tunnels and a teeter-toter stored next to the condenser.

I had to pull up a half dozen small seedlings left by our pine trees. The Trane design with the covered top of the condenser is very appealing when you have giant pine trees that litter your grounds with needles etc.

Bill

 

[MrMcGoo]

Thanks to all of the contributors- again!

I have emailed the salesman that I expect that they will install the heat pump per the Trane installer manuals. Brazed, not soldered joints on the new line set, nitrogen purge and triple evacuation were mentioned. I'll bet the salesman does not get this type of inquiry very often. I'd like to be a fly on the wall when he reads it.

If it was not for this forum, I would have had zero ideas about the quality of the installation of my new equipment. This forum will raise the level of consumer awareness about the critical nature of the quality of the installers versus the equipment. In turn, a lot of energy will be saved along with the corresponding dollars. This is true public service. Thanks again!

I'll be back to the forum so that you have some idea about the outcome.

Bill

 

[MrMcGoo]

The salesman says that they use "silver solder" with their oxy-actetylene torch??? Then he says that the triple purge with dry nitrogen is not needed with an R410A system, POE oil notwithstanding.

Any thoughts?

Bill

 

[MrMcGoo]

beenthere,

Thanks, I'll sleep better tonight.

I have a friend that has more compressors than I can readily count. A freezer in his store went out for the 4th time in the last few months with loss of inventory this time.

I looked the the rod this fellow used, torch etc. He had a nice rig. He uses the R408A refirgerant used in the freezer to purge. Let's hear it for global warming!!!


There are as many "industry practices" as there are practitioners in HVAC. I see more regulation and red tape in your future.

Bill

 

[MrMcGoo]

R408A, cost more then nitrogen, what a .......

But, it will prevent oxidation, I think.

Do you happen to remember, it he purged with that R408A cylinder up right, or upside down. If he purged with it right side up. He's helping to fractinate the gas, and may be causing his own compressor failures.

beenthere,

I was not there when he purged the system, but the bottle was upright until he added refrigerant during the time that I was there. I understand that binary refrigerants will frationate due to the different boiling rates of the two different gasses. Ouch. I'll ask the store owner how cooling goes after the repair.



I have cleaned the area at my home that the techs will need to use. I have everything out of their way in the garage by the electric panel, the path to the condenser should be easy to back up to etc. I'll take Iraqveteran's advice and offer coffee in the cold morning as I have been a pain to the sales drone.

Bill