Who uses a bolt on TXV on an outdoor unit? Rheem finally is getting rid of the brazed TXV on indoor coils for 2015!

Coleman? There's only a few companies making TXVs and none seem to hold up.

 

Who uses a bolt on TXV on an outdoor unit?

The last time I looked Nordyne did...
I beleive (?) UPG still does on some models??

 

It's still welded in but the guts and power head are now replaceable with the official RHEEM outdoor txv kit

 

Yep.......Evaporator coils too.... :gah:

 

So guys; just swap out the whole indoor coil under warranty when that TXV fails. The coil will leak eventually anyway, it's much easier to do and the new coil is aluminum.

 

Done that already, before they released the aluminum coils.....LOL. I wonder if I can do it again?

 

Yes you just have to swap the drain pans. Works like a charm.

 

I thought if something was replaced under warranty, there's only a 1 year warranty on the replacement part??

 

5 or 10 year on the coil depending on s#

 

RCFL Coil from June 2010.... I'll have to check with my Ruud distributor on Monday. If it's only 5 year, I'll be doing that quickly!

 

Yep. Don't screw with a indoor txv. The copper coil will likely fail. I hope the aluminum replacement lasts longer.

 

Yeah, me too. Other manufacturers have seen promising results so far

 

Now wait a minute. The OP showed an outdoor TXV and everyone starts talking about indoor. So which is it? If indoor then yes, Rheem is probably alone on the braze on TXVs til the new ones come out.

Nordyne uses pistons on single stage heat pumps outdoors, not sure about 2 stage.

 

The Sporlan valves with the silver power heads are not replaceable, but the grey powerheads like the one in the back are. Who cares if they are bolt on or not, 99% of the time it is only the power head that fails.Carry some spare power heads, and an empty, clean reclaim tank.

 

99% of the time it is only the power head that fails.Carry some spare power heads, and an empty, clean reclaim tank.

Didn't know that. I always thought that the TXV had to be replaced.

So, does the sensing bulb just lose it's charge? What about when the TXV is "stuck"?

 

How do you know when it's "stuck"?

 

Is this a test?? LOL

Stuck closed: SH is high, SC is high, usually. Evaporator starved.
Stuck open: Low or no SH, normal or "lowish" SC, usually. Evaporator flooded.

Feel like I'm back in tech school

 

Look at it this way; the only way to find out how the valve failed is to swap the power head. If that doesn't fix it you've only lost 15 min. You don't even need to mount the sensing bulb initially.

 

15 minutes? All of the valves now have pressure equalizer tubes which bleed back into the diaphragm. I haven't tried to change a head without removing the gas have you?

 

I've also taken the sensing bulb and placed it in warm or cold water. Observed no change in suction pressure.

 

I'll rephrase. As you probably know most failures are of the under feeding type. Of THAT type of failure is where swapping the power head is of value.

 

Gotcha! I thought you were testing my knowledge... LOL

 

The bottom will unbolt too. I just swap the guts and powerhead. Havent had a problem yet


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I plan on trying that..... It sure beats trying to braze everything in.

 

I think I've only seen one over feeding txv in my time.

 

We've seen a bunch. Rheem. The mfr got wax in the valve when they made it, end up with 1 or 2° SH and low TD. Rheem says run the head up to 600# a couple times, that will blow the wax out. Sure did!

 

I do it on a lot of them if i can get the same valve.

If its a different valve, i use staybright 8. Keeps from overheating them.


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Staybright 8...... Never used it.

 

The rust inhibitor hit everyone with a Copeland scroll.

Far as I know the screen is still there. Haven't had much trouble with outdoor TXVs, just indoor. Did have a few heat pumps where the indoor & outdoor TXVs fought each other causing banging on shutdown. Rheem had us put 10% bleed TXVs on them.

 

I hope Rheem/Ruud really "turns-around" this year with the release of their "remodeled" equipment. They used to be one of the best brands on the market back in the 1990's.

 

i've found it real hard to get the power head loose from the valve body, the factory really torques them on.

 

Use the head wrench which is made for them, it's thin and fits in under the head.

 

If there is a LLSV right next to the txv, i have done it on the fly. If there isnt one....you will most likely dump the charge once you goto screw the new one on.

Now....you could recover gas down to 10psi and change it out. Then put the gas back in. No need for vacuum pump unless you run out of gas.


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Just realized this is not pro section.

Can someone move it to pro.


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I loved the multiflex coils. What other coil could give you a .15" static drop at 1200 on a 17" 3 ton coil? The N coil is about .4" in the same size.

The multiflex never leaked expect in horizontal position (never could figure that out) and I can probably count on 1 hand the TXVs we've changed on them. For the N coil would take about 1/2 the members hands

We'll see on the new line. They look like a fat Lennox Merit from a distance. Noisy suckers. Ratings say you can use 3/4" gas line on the 5 tons up to 100' in most cases so will cut down on the lineset cost.

 

I'm seeing a trend in leaky N coils now. The header and the first loop that's right next to the drain pan.