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Static pressure and blower speed and CFM

1.2K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  wisepole  
#1 ·
Always wondered:
Mode: AC, conventional 1 stage SEER 16 2 ton. [NOT Heat Pump]

S/P (TESP) let's say shows: 0.4

The furnace install document shows - for that furnace:

Switches (Assume please - CFM and on/off status since it's just an example)
x,y,z -> ON-ON-ON -> 800
x,y,z -> ON-OFF-ON -> 900
x,y,z -> ON-OFF-OFF -> 1000
x,y,z -> OFF-OFF-OFF -> 1200
[.... and so on and so forth]

I heard thumb-rule is 400 CFM / ton but that's thumb rule. Recently when my icing issue was fixed the blower speed he said is currently configured to run at max. He said he's not carrying the required meters to check SP but said probably the blower speed is good since you +40F VSTAT, 11.2 sub-cool (rated for 10F), and temp difference supply/return is at 22F.
 
#3 ·
Any technician who does NOT carry a manometer (the simplest way to measure static pressure) is not a technician. They're a hack.

And "probably the blower speed is good" is guessing. In this trade we measure instead of guessing.
 
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#9 ·
Any technician who does NOT carry a manometer (the simplest way to measure static pressure) is not a technician. They're a hack.
No manometer means no ability to check gas pressure either!!
 
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#13 ·
In the end, its all about removing enough moisture while doing the sensible cooling to maintain <50%RH. Calculating the air flow is a good start and one of more difficult measurements to make. Then get out the gauges adjust the air flow to get a cooling coil 30^F below the return air temperature to assure no freezing and good dehumidification.

This will get you 50%RH in the home during +50% cooling cycles. For <50%RH during evenings and rainy days, add a whole house dehumidifier like the Santa Fe Ultra with the fresh, filtered air ventilation option.

Its that simple to have good indoor quality with optimum oxygen, minimum indoor pollutants--plus real comfort.

Regards Teddy Bear

 
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#15 ·
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#16 ·
That measures air velocity. Doing a duct traverse is best in a straight duct that is 10 diameters long. Few residential installations have uninterrupted trunks that are that long. More often they are to be found in commercial situations. That model appears to be very old as I could not find anything but a picture during a search.
Once the velocity is accurately measured, the result is then used with a ductulator or a chart to arrive at an air flow volume.

A much, much easier method is a Tru Flow Grid (using a precision manometer) to directly measure air flow.

EDIT
I just checked Dan's link and a came up with a flow hood. A velometer is different. The flow hood a nice instrument that measures air flow at the grille or register. It has been found to have limited accuracy at the low flow of most residential supply registers. It does well measuring a central return.
 
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#17 ·
Will keep you guys posted.

1. He'll measure the return
2. He'll measure the volume entering duct #1 leaving the plenum (OLD DUCT) and new duct #2 (NEW DUCT recently done). Expected old duct should have more (as its bigger) but he tells me based off the size of these 2 ducts there's an anomaly, i.e. the different is too large. He wants to find out why.
3. The new ducts are going into rooms where previously there were no registers. He wants to measure them since my wife's complaining about lack of air.

He wants to do something called "Air Balancing" but said won't be perfect since the duct work is the restrictive factor.

There's a chance the plenum might need to be brought down (maybe) ; maybe dampers need to be added ; but all of which he'll determine after testing.

THEN, he said THEN - we'll use different gauges and meters to determine the correct blower speed, etc.

All of this - since he's family and the main HVAC guy gave him permission. Cost to me: $0. He does ONLY industrial or heavy duty commercial spaces and thus most of the time his instruments are not geared for residential usage. That's the issue he is facing not that he's not carrying instruments. Contrary to what was stated below. He's the one gave me 2 of the Schneider Electric EPP302-LCD continuous Bluetooth enabled differential pressure monitors since he had extra. Said - use them to know when to change filters, LOL.
 
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