I was asked to look at a refrigerator that had been garaged due to the last guys inability to correct a problem. I pulled the paned and low and behold leak lock was not spared. There was a leak at the cap tube that had been brazed, well rather fused to the tube. I am not a refrigeration guy, but a few things stood out to me. High side was very low and low side pulled into 21 inches of vacuum. Well ok then multiple leaks and leak lock possibly pulled into the cap tube. One thing that trouble me was the access valve brazed into the process tube. No shrader core? Is this typical? Air and moisture in the system with restrictions and low on 134, so is salvage an issue? It has sat for 3 years and the damage is done. Shame since it was a high end refrigerator. Pardon my ignorance on small appliances. It looked like soldering was done to some extent, perhaps overcooked. Thanks guys
lg side by side
Todd Whaley
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Joined
·
934 Posts
I was asked to look at a refrigerator that had been garaged due to the last guys inability to correct a problem. I pulled the paned and low and behold leak lock was not spared. There was a leak at the cap tube that had been brazed, well rather fused to the tube. I am not a refrigeration guy, but a few things stood out to me. High side was very low and low side pulled into 21 inches of vacuum. Well ok then multiple leaks and leak lock possibly pulled into the cap tube. One thing that trouble me was the access valve brazed into the process tube. No shrader core? Is this typical? Air and moisture in the system with restrictions and low on 134, so is salvage an issue? It has sat for 3 years and the damage is done. Shame since it was a high end refrigerator. Pardon my ignorance on small appliances. It looked like soldering was done to some extent, perhaps overcooked. Thanks guys
leak lock...horrible idea especially with 134a in a domestic application. Service port on the process tube is typical for low side access...high side could be accessed anywhere available.
If you weighed in the correct charge and low side is in a vacuum then you have a restriction and since its an LG its most likely in the cap tube.
LG does this thing where they put a "notch" in the cap tube to prevent hissing noises from the refrigerant equalizing during the off cycle.
Is it salvageable..?? Yes, but with alot of work. Here's what has to be done
#1: Captube has to be changed, youre going to have to get this info from LG. they're going to tell u to take that notch out but don't even try just get the dimensions (length and diameter) of the cap tube. Now to do this...here's the fun part...youre going to have to drill a hole thru the back of the cabinet & into the evaporator area to run the new cap tube. The existing tube runs thru the frame/insulation and theres really no way to get it out. I'd drill from the inside out to avoid hitting that coil, be careful.
#2 change the drier
#3 if any bullet piercing valves were used get rid of them and put regular access fittings on.
#4 pressure check and pull a really good vacuum
Then just weigh in charge from here. drilling thru the cabinet is going to be a pain tho
If you weighed in the correct charge and low side is in a vacuum then you have a restriction and since its an LG its most likely in the cap tube.
LG does this thing where they put a "notch" in the cap tube to prevent hissing noises from the refrigerant equalizing during the off cycle.
Is it salvageable..?? Yes, but with alot of work. Here's what has to be done
#1: Captube has to be changed, youre going to have to get this info from LG. they're going to tell u to take that notch out but don't even try just get the dimensions (length and diameter) of the cap tube. Now to do this...here's the fun part...youre going to have to drill a hole thru the back of the cabinet & into the evaporator area to run the new cap tube. The existing tube runs thru the frame/insulation and theres really no way to get it out. I'd drill from the inside out to avoid hitting that coil, be careful.
#2 change the drier
#3 if any bullet piercing valves were used get rid of them and put regular access fittings on.
#4 pressure check and pull a really good vacuum
Then just weigh in charge from here. drilling thru the cabinet is going to be a pain tho
x2 and the time...especially with LG I've dealt with this issue before, not fun
judging by what u said about the leak at the cap tube it sounded like the original guy tried to take out that "notch" in the cap tube but maybe/accidentally plugged it up is my guess and at that point he just gave up cuz he knew what had to be done now
Like yourself, I'm not an expert on small appliances. It does sound like there is a restriction inside. As 134a is relatively cheap, have you added any charge to further test the system?
I have seen some schrader valves in the past with no cores. Usually when some DIY guy doesnt have the proper tool to insert it.
As these parts are also relatively inexpensive, and you say the fridge is high end, wouldnt it be beneficial to try to fix/replace parts?
I have seen some schrader valves in the past with no cores. Usually when some DIY guy doesnt have the proper tool to insert it.
As these parts are also relatively inexpensive, and you say the fridge is high end, wouldnt it be beneficial to try to fix/replace parts?
Joined
·
50,203 Posts
Joined
·
934 Posts
Oh yeah that cap was defiantly holding her down lol. As in the previous tech gave up would answer the no shrader question. It was late and I was just muddling around my in-laws house and they asked if I could take a look at the LG that had been in the garage gathering dust for the past few years. I saw that he had installed access fittings and thought, "cool I can trouble shoot". Well I took the cap of the process stub and whoosh. I added a new core if I was going to go any farther. I saw the notch on the cap tube that was covered green and burned to a crisp. Well it has been exposed open to a non-climate controlled environment.... Cap tube, filter dryer, 134, Nitro, Nitro, Nitro, Vacuum etc. etc. Multiple leaks due to what looks like vibration and the leak lock was a clue. Protective sheathing gone due to vibration... It was a pretty expensive fridge, but would it be worth it say.. at cost considering I would take it home... A lot of work, but I'm laid off so I have time. I have yet had to file off a cap tube or braze one back in for that matter. They said the tech came multiple times with a new part in hand as well as dye.... I have pics as soon as my phone cooperates. Pretty Graphic in nature....
Joined
·
934 Posts
That would be that "Plastic Weld" type of quick epoxy that's cured with a torch, isn't it?
Joined
·
934 Posts
It is soft to the touch like putty. The leak is right behind, "see pic with inspection mirror". It is in 3 separate spots. Not familiar with this stuff. My concern is that the compressor is contaminated and whatever i do the work would be futile and only buy time for this appliance, or I would go through a couple filter dryers. The vacuum on the system was after I connected the gauges, so i immediately turned off.
Joined
·
54,330 Posts
Todd
As a learning tool take the chance and repair it. No warranty or guarantees of the outcome.
Recover whatever is in there
Install a Schrader valve on the process tube
Remove the existing copper drier and replace with 032 CAP T drier.
Cut the cap tube back a few ins.
Evacuate and recharge.
As a learning tool take the chance and repair it. No warranty or guarantees of the outcome.
Recover whatever is in there
Install a Schrader valve on the process tube
Remove the existing copper drier and replace with 032 CAP T drier.
Cut the cap tube back a few ins.
Evacuate and recharge.
Joined
·
934 Posts
I did install a shrader core as I have those on hand. On a sad note when I was laid off I had a tool account which was worth about 2000.00 I had no chance to pay off other than the Sman4's. The company retained vac pump, recovery, micron gauge, turbo torch, my appion core tools, "which I loved", scale, tiff, you name it. I have nothing to do serious work unless I had my refrigeration buddy on hand. The Recovery machine was an Appion g5 good god I loved that thing too. It's not going anywhere, but needed advice to proceed. Thanks guys. Btw I would not recommend the Sman4. Knobs are impossible to turn when charging and strip easily, micron gauge broke, and you have to constantly calibrate the k clamps which break a lot.
Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk now Free
Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk now Free
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
