I tried twice to understand what you did or didn't do.
1-Why or what are you wire nutting off?
2-"I also use OEM and this was not OEM motor." help me understand what you are try to state.
3-You were there, we are not, what are the two capacitors jumped for?
Well, if York tech support guy can't figure it out, I guess you are screwed or "guy" wasn't much support or maybe he's the new breed of tech support and we're all screwed.

 

Sorry I was using speech text. I meant I always use OEM and this time I was not allowed to. I wired nutted the wire that goes to the capacitor in the control box. The reason I did that is because the rescue motor comes with its own wire and capacitor which I used. The reason I wire netted the brown wire is because I was not going to be using that on the capacitor in the control box. The reason the capacitors are jumped L1 going to cap. This is original and on the Schematic. So basically you have one line of power going to the capacitor and then with the jumper on the capacitor that brings voltage to the other capacitor and then that sends it to the motor.

 

On the new motor, you connected the brown wire to the original brown wire that goes to the capacitor in the electrical section. Was it brown with white tracer or solid brown?
Did you feel the motor, is it hot ?

Sent from my ASUS_P00J using Tapatalk

 

This is basically what I was trying to do go from a four wire to a three wire and do not use the white striped.
Diagram courtesy of Emerson
How to wire a condensing fan motor for 3 vs. 4 wires is a common question by new techs. Jesse Grandbois submitted this tech tip to help make it simple. Thanks, Jesse!.

This is a quick one on the difference between wiring universal condenser fan motors and why brown+white is the same wire as white. This one seems to confuse even experienced technicians and really is very simple once you see it. Now keep in mind that wire colors ACTUALLY MEAN NOTHING, but on service replacement motors the colors do tend to be consistent. As always, refer to the wiring diagram on the particular motor you are using.

I'll provide a diagram and explain the wires below.

Here's the 3 wire method:
– White wire from the condenser fan motor to one side of power on the contactor (T1) and jumped to one side of the fan capacitor. This is AC power and not a dual capacitor, so the terminal side does not matter
– Black wire from the condenser fan motor to other side of power on the contactor (T2)
– Brown wire from the condenser fan motor to the other side of the capacitor opposite the jumper wire.
– Cap off brown+white (unused)

 

I did not use the wire back from the original capacitor. As for which color wire I used I couldn’t tell if it had the white stripe or if it was solid brown due to the sun has faded it. This is on the original motor. I will need to ohm for white to brown and stripped brown as well as black wire from the new Motor to find the least resistance if I do install the way the original was installed. The way this motor is wired right now is line 1 line 2 and the brown and straight brown from the motor to its own capacitor. My thinking is the hook the white and black from the original motor for line 1 line 2 and then trying to figure out if I just send the striped wire or brown wire back to the original capacitor. I don’t know if that’ll solve the problem

 

Whether a 4 wire or 3 wire, it is not that complicated.
Is this a straight cooling unit?
Forever and a day motors have been produced with either the brown/white wire or a ribbed wire.
Either indicate the same thing.
Is this a single speed ODF motor or 2 speed?
Sound like someone didn't have the correct capacitor once upon a time and paralleled two to make one.

 

It was factory this way even the York tech-support guy came out to my site and he had a hard time as well. Yes you would think it would be very easy but something is not working right this unit is probably 18 years old

 

I can't make out what you are doing / getting.

But . . . there is a compressor contactor, right?

Connect the L1 and the L2 wires from the motor to the load side of the contactor - this is where the wires To the compressor are connected.

Connect both brown wires from the motor to the correct size capacitor.

Set the motor rotation to match the fan blade.

Mount the motor's new capacitor properly and tidy it all up.

The end.

If the motor has the correct voltage supplied to it, and the run capacitor is verified good, all the wire connections are secure, and the motor does not run well - the motor is defective.

PHM
---------

 

What he said!

If you're using a rescue motor, forget about the original diagram, and simply use the rescue wiring diagram.

Black to L1, White to L2, brown and brown/white to the new cap.

Also, do the next guy a favor, and remove all the old unused wiring and capacitors.

 

Always use a separate Fan Capacitor when you can.

I think its so stupid sharing caps

The 2 browns to the new cap , and nothing more , those 2 is all it needs

Ok ...... now one thing I notice is you arent using your AMP METER

I say this because the motor ran for 5 minutes and turned off on OL

Always check amps with Fan Motors. They are NOT the same as compressors where the listed amps are 18 and it pulls 12 , No , Not at all , when a fan says it pulls 3.5 amps it should be dam close to that

Something else I've learned is .... not all motors like to be used as 3 wire

I've had some where I nutted the White/Brown and only used the solid brown and ... it Over Amped

So I dont even try that anymore , get into the habbit of adding its own Cap

If you have done this and its still not amping correctly , look at the OTHER fans Cap , sometimes it can be bad causing backfeed , or some other tech wired it wrong

 

I Did use the amp meter but I was embarrassed to say it was 3.2 A rated but I’m pulling 6 A on the motor. I’m on the job site now I’m going to use the unstriped brown wire connect the old wire back to the capacitor and see what happens. Factory installed had it this way they use three wires instead of four on all these Yorks

 

How many fans are on this ?

 

Two fans.

 

Commercial split or package ?
Model number ?

 

It’s a package unit it is a York model number DH120N20P2bma3. If you pull up the wiring diagram look at wire 116 you’ll see that’s where the jumper is. What I did is I pulled the power from one side of the I just put it on the contactor and the motor seems to go in the correct way I do not know why the factory has two caps nobody can understand why I’m getting voltage fat back to make this motor going to reverse I’m about ready to throw it off the roof

 

It providing one lag of the power to each cap.
With that one lag of power being #117 ( Yellow )
Black would be your common lag.

 

What does Note 4 say ?

 

Removed

:grin2:

 

.

 

Ohhh wait that's 14

 

Ohhh wait that's 14 View attachment 824031

What I ended up doing was running the power to first stage compressor contactor so both fans come on at the same time but what I was noticing is it took a minute for this US motor to ramp up to speed and I have no idea why but it is going the correct direction

 

I would not leave it that way.
You want to use the independent outdoor fan relay/contactor.
It is a separate power circuit.

 

I absolutely agree but it’s for a McDonald’s in the kitchen and during rush at lunchtime it gets way too hot so I had to just get it up and running. It still blows me away that I can push the contactor full speed but when the unit calls for cooling the one fan is idyll spied and us motor take a minute

 

Theres no such thing as a US motor ramping to to speed

I stock US motors and they are exactly like any other , they fire up instantly

Whats your amps now ?

 

Amps are 2.6. I ran my own wires back used the incoming power runs great I use the compressor contactor line voltage it ran perfect then I ran it on the spade connectors pushing in the contactors runs perfect but as soon as the unit calls for cooling the one fan on the fan contactor ran perfect but the other fan was going slow then ramped up to full speed. Cap is brand new and is 10.1 µF when tested. For some reason when the other fan comes on my new motor takes a minute to get full speed. Now The one motor is a 3/4 and I’m using a half horsepower same RPMs but that should not have an affect as soon as power is being used by each motor. This is on a McDonald’s in the kitchen so I have to have it running or it gets way too hot in there.

 

Oh goodness

You have 2 issues now

1 - You cant take a 3/4 hp out and toss a 1/2 in its place using the same blades , the motor will over amp

2 - Something is mis-wired ... somewheres

 

The same fan blade is also used on 1/2 to 3/4. Horse. We ran new wire with same results and we tried it on two motors same thing.

 

So ... if you disconnect the other fan motor , or atleast disable the contactor , will the US motor fire up fine ?

 

Yes it does same with the compressor contactor or the indoor fan contactor or any 208 voltage. I can run the fan to the incoming 208 voltage to the unit And the fan will run just fine but when you push that contactor for the other fan then this fan has a problem does the same thing goes very slow or it starts to go in reverse. Then the motor will slowly start going clockwise the way it should very slowly very slowly then it finally catches up and spins like the other motor then it turns off on the internal overload and we tried this with two motors a half horse and a three-quarter.

 

Have you checked for voltage at the condenser fan?
Are you sure the brown/white wire is in phase with the white wire on the motor?
It is possible that the jumper wire on the capacitor that feeds power to the other capacitor is bad?
I apologize is you answered theses questions earlier, but I wasn't able to completely follow what you were posting.


Sent from my ASUS_P00J using Tapatalk

 

Those two fans have to start simultaneously or you'll have the issue you're having.
If one fan starts first before the other it will pull air in reverse through the second one causing it to start backwards.

 

Anti-windmill device.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

 

Good Band-Aid but the problem should be corrected.
They are good for wind conditions.

 

So here's an interesting thought.

And I only bring it up because today, I had to source a new 460V 1PH fan motor, and prop.

I couldn't find a CCWLE motor, or a CCW 33*, 4 blade, 24" prop.....BUT I did find a reversible motor, and a CW prop to spec.

SOOooo...with one running opposite the other, or spinning in the off cycle....is that issue mitigated....OR not?

 

I seriously doubt it matters which way the blade spins as long as it pushes air

But ... having one running during the Off cycle ? That could very well be a problem causing the other to keep spinning backwards when its time to kick on

It would depend if they have Sheet Metal Dividers so they had a separate section

I've seen setups where they have Winter Time controls having 1 fan controlled for Head Pressure .... but Im thinking they had those dividers

 

I would wire it exactly as the diagram shows.

 

We did that with three different motors it does not work

 

But he stated they even used a OEM motor.

 

IF that's the case.....AND it was wired properly, there could be an issue with the interconnecting wiring within the unit.

 

And that's why I hate Dork 🤣