1st option is scrap it.

If you insist replace the cap tube.

With all your work that you’ve done did you change the dryer?

 

He said he changed the drier. But that tells us very little.

 

Possibly.When charging/recharging Res Refrig I was taught by GE that it can take up to two days in order for the refrig to distribute itself properly around the system,all by its self, OR, you "stutter start" the unit. Initial start- up runs for 1-2 min,let press equalize, repeat several times,this way the freon gets "put in its place" quickly,and properly.

 

Scrap it

Its got what i call Cooler Cancer

 

Absolutely will not scrap it, I bought it broken for the intended purpose of fixing it. I want to replace the cap but I need to know what size and length it is so I can purchase the appropriate one.

Also yes I mentioned op that I did replace the filter drier. When I first got the unit unit the cap was completely clogged (the low side was going into a full vacuum) but after clearing the restriction with nitrogen the low side only goes into half a vacuum so there is definitely some progress.

I know there are methods of using a thinner to try and clean out the line and purge with nitro afterwards but I can't find any good videos on the whole process. Same goes for the bottle jack method as well I believe.

 

All you have to do is measure the ID of the cap tube, and its length. Easy freakin peasy.

 

I can measure the ID but can't measure the length when it's embedded into the foam insulation

 

Then, if it is restricted, how are you going to replace it?

 

The other answer is to abandon the cap tube and go with an AEV. Set the AEV for something like 34*F. Run a new liquid line. No big deal. Slope your drier down to get a good feed to the AEV.

 

Hum, going to have to look into this. Thank you for the suggestion.

Lets see if you still feel this way 6 months from now :grin2:

Believe me, I get stupidly dedicated to something I start. I mean I litterly learned a good portion of refrigeration by myself just as a hobby to have. This is no where anything near me profession but it's a very nice skill set to have. It is going to take A LOT to deter me from this.

 

I believe you can put the cap tube down through the drain tube and then you wind it around the suction tube to make a "heat exchanger". I was just hoping someone had a service manual that might have mentioned the size and length of the cap so I could try that. But seeing as that most likely not the case I guess my best bet is to try to thinner or jack pump method.

 

If you don't change the oil you're going to keep getting restrictions. You can also determine what cap tube is necessary based on 3 criteria.

 

Very true. Do you have any good resources on the proper way I can change out the oil? I would like to learn this the correct way.

Also what are the 3 criterias?

 

I'm guessing BTUH, temp, and . . . .

 

I have had very poor results with cap tubes once they start plugging. Replaced FD, FD and Cap tube, added Supco 88 and once in a while it works Mostly it is an exercise in futility once the POE oil gets moisture and coked up. Even changing the oil (take comp out, drain refill) does not always fix it.

Had a Chinese Avantco the chef bought. De superheat coil rotted out in the condensate and proceeded to get the system soggy. Took 4 dryers, two cap tubes and a partridge in a pear tree, but it is running... Not holding breath tho.

 

I hear alot of guys swap in a TXV and the problem is solved.

Ive only done 1 swap and it lasted about 6 months on a beer glycol unit , and I was so disgusted I didnt even go back to diag , told him buy a new one

That was my first swap , so I never even billed him for it .... that was my experimental unit

 

I have cap tube wire gauges for measuring inside diameter. I stock 5-6 different sizes from Supco. They have a chart for equivalent lengths if the I.D. Is a bit different. I’ve had mostly good luck with cap tube replacement. There was one that plugged up again and the compressor went out. Replaced the compressor and switched to expansion valve. Three years now, and still running good.

 

The only AEV's I remember seeing were in R12 cold wells at Taco Bells. Was quite the elaborate set up. The reach in, bottom well and top well were on the same system AEV solenoid was controlled with a temp control, reach in was controlled with an EPR and the lower well was controlled with a LPC. The systems did not like R12 replacement refrigerants and if we changed compressors or repaired leaks, we'd have to change the AEV's to TXV's and the EPR's to solenoids and temp controls.

 

Just want to ask a quick question. Are capillary tubes standardized?
For instance if I measure the O.D. of two caps and they both turn out to be ~.070" OD, is it possible for one to have an ID of .026" and the other to have one of .031"? Or will a .070" OD always result in a .026 ID?

I don't have cap tube gauges but measuring the OD of my cap it looks like it's ~.070" OD which looking at this chart I'm almost certain the ID is .026"
http://www.jbind.com/pdf/TC-803-308 Cap Tube Manual.pdf

 

I don't remember ever measuring the OD of a cap tube.

 

If it was me I would look at the compressor HP, then use a supco chart and cut a new cap tube. Then drill a hole in the back of the unit, and run 1/4 or 3/8 out the hole from the evap coil inlet. Run my cap tube up the back of the unit and then if you have to adjust or change that cap tube again it's all on the back where its easy to get at. Forget the wrapping around the suction line, that does very little to help in reality. And I have done may hundreds of cap tubes. Throw an oversized drier on there to catch the wax crap and let er buck. :.02:

Also, maybe change it to something other than 134A

 

I will most likely be replacing the cap tube. I haven't purchased the guage yet but going off of the OD I can reasonably say (for now) that my ID is .026".
Can you tell me how much tubing I will need if I am using a .026" cap?

The system takes a 5.0oz charge and here is a pic of the compressor label. http://imgur.com/a/HoG3BEY

Also on another forum someone told me I could route the the cap down the drain tube and wrap it around the suction line. I think this is a good idea but I want to get your thought on it.

 

I bought a broken reach-in cooler from Craigslist, was told it had a leak but technician couldn't find it, took it home, brazed service ports and the issue was a restricted cap,recovered the 134a, dusted my old Thermal unclogging kit and pumped half inch of wire throughout the cap, changed the dryer, recharged it and haven't had any issues, the Thermal kit works really nice, not sure if still being made.

 

can you post a picture of your kit? I am invisioning a hydraulic ram of sorts, I have heard of these for clearing cap tubes but have not seen one

 

Gotcha.

One last question, I know this might seem silly but when I first took a look at this system I noticed the unusual route the suction line takes to the compressor.
https://i.imgur.com/sT6HKHT.jpg
I thought the pervious tech did this and since there was oil trapped down there after moving the fridge and I didn't want to end up with a leaking piercing valve, I decided to shorten it and have it go in the more usual location.
https://i.imgur.com/yrPYeMI.jpg
After looking up some pictures of kitchenaid fridges I noticed that that's actually how they are installed at the factory. I can't think of a reason why it would be done like that. Maybe its supposed to be like an accumulator? Should I connect it like it was before?

 

It needs to be routed that way to prevent vibration stress cracks.

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Here the Thermal kit https://3tu2nw308x4p2v9d07240y1i-wp...ine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/1003-Cap-Check-Instructions_B.pdf

 

Thanks for information, I remember there was talk of gauged sized bb that would be pumped through hydraulically through cap tube. Wondering if you or anyone here has information.

@ icemeister? Maybe.

 

Bump. Would this work or can I keep the current filter on?
https://ordering.fwwebb.com/woitem/203786*1

 

It is a good filter but not an HH model which are the "wax" removing variety.
Also we often refer to wax in Poe oil systems but I believe that theory was shot down years ago and it is something like metallic salts in reality. I just call it wax for simplicity.

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Gotcha. Ty for the clarification.

 

And that is what I do not miss, cap tubes on reach ins. [emoji20]

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Sorry for the late reply. Would this type of oil work as a replacement?
https://www.amazon.com/FJC-2432-Est...gerant/dp/B0002NYBDC/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=poe+oil&qid=1601212622&sr=8-3
Would 1 quart be enough? I don't want to buy too much, it's a bit expensive.

Also I usually purchase this filter due to the price and UV dye. Is this sufficient enough?
https://www.amazon.com/Supco-SUD835...0f8-00c4e91c331c&pf_rd_r=AWCC2M3Y1AH4ATVKPKBH&psc=1&refRID=AWCC2M3Y1AH4ATVKPKBH

 

https://www.amazon.com/TSI-Supercoo...er/dp/B010V4DW0O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=poe+oil&qid=1601217769&sr=8-3
This is probably better.
The oil you listed is for automotive ac and automotive can use conductive oils that would destroy your compressor. I wouldn't risk it.
Also i don't know what viscosity your compressor calls for.

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Is there a cheaper can I could get?

 

Also this is s better filter.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sporlan...BRArEiwAGZsrBXQOaZ3_PLRxUId7ABrFyffQCqv9LScf3IOgbaE18kGUcK6XvV3dXhoCmE0QAvD_BwE

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