[helsonbm]

Me too! I was thinking about that myself!

 

[helsonbm]

That was the problem!!! The inducer draft motor was wired wrong. I had the brown where the purple should be! Changed these two wires and it fixed it!

 

[helsonbm]

thank you for your info. I will do some more research. I will tell you this, if I stick my fluke CO monitor at the flue exhaust it will peg out at a thousand ppm. It will burn your eyes.

 

[helsonbm]

there CO was going off audibly at 125ppm and and mine would get up there around 60 and 70 then I would stop monitoring at that point. Nothing else is running to produce the gas.

 

[helsonbm]

Yes, that got burned off already.

 

[helsonbm]

Thank you and congrats on your up and coming. My wife and I waited until he came out. What an awesome experience to have!

 

[helsonbm]

I tried getting the size today @ Carrier so I could match it up with what was on there but the counter guy couldn't find it so I just left it alone for the time.

 

[helsonbm]

Yes sir! Well, for a clog yes, for the right size orfice-no.

 

[helsonbm]

sorry about the slow responses, I just had my first child two weeks ago and I have been trying to spend some time with him!! It is natural gas. That is a good idea on the draft motor. I will check that!

 

[helsonbm]

i noticed that both part #'s have a 500 in it but the part #'s i have for two of the parts have 400 in them. Such as the inducer fan assembly is a 48gs400649 and the flue box collar is a 48gs400108. I do not know if this means anything?

 

[helsonbm]

2

 

[helsonbm]

Everything is basically new. New heat exchanger, inducer assembly, back plate, gas valve, and the 2 inshot burners. I called Carrier and there is no regulator or flame retainer for this piece of equipment. They doubled checked too. The alignment of the burner is right on as well. Sealed with high temp caulk, didn't go crazy with it but there is plenty to make a good seal. Not sure what else to check. The outlet pressure is a least 3.5 to 3.7. That model was a 48GS-030060301 by the way.

 

[helsonbm]

Just got home after going back out this call again. I replaced the gas valve due to an intermittent problem of not openning up when 24v was applied to the valve. After that, I just started it up after cheching the burners and the orfices which were fine but to no avail. So, I removed the heat exchanger again and took everything off of it and made sure everything was sealed and caulked to make sure no leaks then reinsalled and fired it back up but STILL the exact same problem. I am soo confused now because I not sure what to do. I did look over the heat exchanger while I had it out but didn't see anything abnormal.

 

[helsonbm]

great advice!

 

[helsonbm]

10-4

 

[helsonbm]

Thank you for your response. The only other thing in the house that is on gas is the water heater and at this time it is not working itself. They have had it shut down for a while. Now on the regulator ,if I check the inlet and it is around 10 or 11 then I do not need a regulator right? To be honest, around here I have hardly ever seen an external reg on any unit for that matter at least when it comes to residential systems. The flame retainer is something I think this unit doesn't have on it and from the pictorial that came with the new heat exchanger it doesn't show it either. What was wrong with your unit (48td009) that was producing the CO, was it a cracked one? The alignment I might need to check on! It seems that when I install the gas nipple it doesn't align perfectly up with the hole and it causes it to shift a little but not very much though.