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If you've tripped the oil safety switch for the recip compressor then there may have been damaged to the compressor. How long did it run with low or no oil because of the leak?

Before buying a new oil pump and/or adding oil and charging the system check the main bearing behind the oil pump. Remove the Main bearing housing from the body. This is done by removing the approximate 10 3/8" bolts around the flange to the body of the compressor. If you cannot get directly to the main bearing housing remove the oil pump first. Only remove the 6 larger oil pump mounting 5/16 bolts - do not remove the two face plate bolts smaller in size.

Once the main bearing housing is removed you will be able to view the surface of the pressed main bearing or bushing. There will be crows feet to expedite lubrication. Any scoring found here condemns the compressor. If the main bearing checks out review the remaining components by "Shaking hands with the crank" as Copeland calls it. With a clean hand try to lift the crank vertically and then horizontally. If it moves in any directions one or all of the following surfaces are scored: Crank shaft, rod journals, thrust bearings. The crank may move forward or aft this is fine.

If all surfaces check out then the oil safety switch did it's job and saved the compressor. If the oil safety switch has been tripped and reset before the damage may be don and the compressor will have to be replaced.

If the compressor is good and you charge it as directed by previous posts in this thread replace the LL filter drier to ensure any non-condensibles are removed from the circuit.

The only additional cost of this simple 5 minute procedure would be the cost of a gasket if they are not carefully removed with a putty knife an patience. When reapplying the gaskets trace the surfaces with some mineral oil. Reassemble the compressor and torque the housing cover 3/8" bolts to 550 Inch Pounds. The oil pump to housing 5/16" bolts torque to 300 Inch Pounds.

You do this every time a unit trips on oil safety???