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NASHVILLEMAN

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Here's a little background on my situation:

Bought a new place in 2009 (built in 08). There is a 3 ton unit for the downstairs, and a 2 ton upstairs. They are NOT heat pumps, even though I live in Nashville and that is the standard for our area if you have electric heat. So, it's straight electric resistance heating.

The reason there is a 3 ton downstairs, is that it is also responsible for the basement. They ran duct work in the basement, but that's it. It's not finished, so there are block walls and concrete floors. Currently, I have those vents sealed and closed as to not heat and cool that space.

It's a long narrow house, so all the bedrooms are upstairs. We only use one bedroom of the 3 up there.

Well, we were gone for 8 days during the last billing cycle, and our bill was $350. I kept it at 60 while we were away, and typically keep it fairly cool on the house, about 65 degrees. The bill seems high, but since it is straight electric heat, I can see that it might make some sense. I should add I have the units serviced annually, so I expect they are operating as designed.

Here's my questions:

1) Should I continue to leave the basement sealed? (Since it is a 3 ton unit, I don't know if I am making it work more inefficient by doing this)

2) Should I close the vents in the bedrooms were aren't using, or will this cause the unit to operate more inefficiently?

3) Would a programmable thermostat make sense, and if so, what should I set the temp to during the day, as I already keep the house somewhat cool at 65 degrees.

Any help is appreciated on educating me on the best way to work with this setup.
 
At that elec bill level, you could get payback on a real HP in just a few years. Check into rebates and incentives in your area - there are cases where it can be surprisingly low cost.
With incentives in central IL, installed a HP for Mom a few years ago and payback was only 3 years (not counting my labor of course, that would stretchit out to about 5 years)

None of 1, 2, or 3 will make any difference as far as efficiency, the only items in any of those is to have the house colder.
 
At that elec bill level, you could get payback on a real HP in just a few years. Check into rebates and incentives in your area - there are cases where it can be surprisingly low cost.
With incentives in central IL, installed a HP for Mom a few years ago and payback was only 3 years (not counting my labor of course, that would stretchit out to about 5 years)

None of 1, 2, or 3 will make any difference as far as efficiency, the only items in any of those is to have the house colder.
You charged your mom labor? That's sad. I don't charge my parents for anything I do for them. I even pay for the parts.
 
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You need to replace that straight a/c condenser with a heat pump condenser. Hopefully, you can still get a system match for the air handler since it is from 2008.

Good luck.
 
my opinion is that if you want to, leave the basement ones closed the only thing that will happen is the upper portion of the house will heat/cool faster and the theromostat will trip and shut it off faster than with the lower portion, im allmost certain this will not put any extra stress of the unit, if the lower and upper portion of the house were open then the unit would run longer, it may be meant to run both upper and lower portions but it would not hurt to leave the basement closed, it would not be less efficent, most likely it will save you money same gos for the bedrooms, does not hurt to keep them closed, it will keep the unit running less= saving you on bill. i would love to have a programable thermostat, those things are cool if sixty five during the day is what you want so be it, nad if seventy is what you want at night you dont have to touch it to do so, it seems to me like you have a decent system even though you like to keep the basement and 2 beds closed, if you ever wanted to rent the basement and use the two rooms you have the right equiptment to do so. hps wouldent hurt tho, there right, much less on bill.
 
You charged your mom labor? That's sad.

Of course I would not charge Mom! I only added in a reference to labor 'cost' as a payback time so the OP did not think his payback time would only be in the 3 year range. Mom's cost was zero, plus she got the approximate $900 rebate from the poco off her electric bills also. I agree it would be sad if someone charged their mother, sorry I worded the initial response poorly.

I dont even charge my immediate neighbors, esp. not the retired agronomist who gives us about $500 worth of fresh produce a year!
 
Like others have said get a heat pump. Something else I would look at is the duct. If the duct is uninsulated and not sealed well you could have a lot of loss into an unconditioned basement which would raise your operating cost. I think I would insulate and finish the basement, then open up the registers to heat it.
 
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Like others have said get a heat pump. Something else I would look at is the duct. If the duct is uninsulated and not sealed well you could have a lot of loss into an unconditioned basement which would raise your operating cost. I think I would insulate and finish the basement, then open up the registers to heat it.
are older installs not insulated or would it be un insulated bc its a basement or just lazy installers?
 
Weil Mc; In my area if the duct is in a conditioned basement {HO said they closed off heat runs in it indicating it was designed to be conditioned} the duct is not insulated since any loss would be going into conditioned space. Should it be insulated? Probably as it would help insure that the conditioned air got where it was designed to go. Reality is most people don't see the need to spend the extra money it would cost to have it insulated if it is not in unconditioned space.

Hope that helps.
 
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are older installs not insulated or would it be un insulated bc its a basement or just lazy installers?
95% of homes with basement ductwork are uninsulated. Thats old homes and new homes. Crawl space and attics are a different story.

As far as the replacing the AC with a heat pump is concerned:
It should not be hard to find an outdoor that is a correct match for the indoor.

Last week we found a matching air handler for a 3 year old rheem heat pump, no problem.
 
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