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"system in auto recovery" - how to disable?

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gt2nome

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
First post.

I installed 2 programmable thermostats last winter (Hunter Fan 44860) for my carrier heat pumps (2 ton for 1st level 1100 sqft, 1.5 ton for 2nd level 1000 sqft), hoping to save some money by setting at 60 deg at night and during work hours.

Thermostats work OK except for the "auto recovery" mode used when transitioning from a lower temp (60) to normal temp (68). It basically goes nuts, sometimes it stays on well past 68, sometimes its cuts on and off repeatedly. To make long story short, I have to wake up before this mode comes on (5 am), and manually overriding the temp for an hour or so, to avoid this "auto recovery".

Is there any way to disable this mode? There are no switches inside unit. I've tried calling Hunter Fan, but end up on hold for hours.

thanks
 
#2 ·
Most heat pumps should not be run with a set back temperature. Takes too long to recover, and you don't really save anything.
Also, I'd get rid of those Hunters and get a real t-stat - Honeywell pro-line is very dependable.
 
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#3 ·
I would hazard a guess that most pro's on here do not purchase Hunter or box store thermostats, unless it's out of necessity. My advice is to read the instructions that came with the thermostat. There is probably some sort of installers menu to get into and that should let you do as you need too. I do agree with 2old about getting rid of those thermostats and putting honeywell's on.
 
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#4 ·
Costly electric heat.

I too would recommend a better quality thermostat. When these thermostats are returning to the occupied/comfort heating setpoints, they should do so by excluding the use of electric heat---as long as they sense that progress toward the setpoint is being made by a certain amount over time. Otherwise you would blow any savings by running the expensive electric heat. There is also a threshold associated with the comfort setpoints vs. the setback setpoints by which maximum savings can be met. Having the system playing catch-up over too large of an offset can be as (or more) expensive as not using the feature.
I would think that this "recovery mode" is exactly what I had previously described. Probably normal. As for the over/undershooting, it could be a setup or incompatibility issue.
 
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#8 ·
Not too mention that when stepping up to a higher temperature, the heat pump is running the most at it's most inefficient time, the coldest part of the day, instead of just maintaining in the not so cold temps. Then there is the defrost issue.

How'd I do for a rookie non-pro?
 
#9 ·
steve669 said:
Not too mention that when stepping up to a higher temperature, the heat pump is running the most at it's most inefficient time, the coldest part of the day, instead of just maintaining in the not so cold temps. Then there is the defrost issue.

How'd I do for a rookie non-pro?
Click to expand...
Not bad!
 
#10 ·
Most box store themostats don't have the options that will let you customize it. Still, the instructions for it may let you disable that feature.
Take the advice above and maintain a reasonable temperature for economy. Setting the thermostat one degree lower all day will save a lot more than setting it back serveral degrees at night. I totally agree with steve669 in that you are making it work the hardest at the coldest time.

Yes, get a better themostat as above.

let's see I think I just regurgitated everything already posted, wasn't that a waste of time!!!!!::DD:
:Faint:
 
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#11 ·
beenthere said:
Hunter makes a real nice and reliable ceiling fan.
Click to expand...
And that's where they should have stopped. :oops:

I did buy one of those at a garage sale. Works great for the heat in the garage. I have all the programs set for 45 deg. When I'm working in the garage i do a manual override to 60 or 65, at the next "program change" it automatically drops back to 45.

No more realizing you've been heating the cars for 2 days by mistake.

But that's probably all it's good for...
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Thanks to all who replied. I will be replacing hunter tstats with Honeywell pro very soon. But I still think I can save a little energy by throttling back hps at night and during the day.

If I leave the temperature setting at 68 at night, hp will run most of the night (heat loss is greater than hp output). If I set for 60, it will run continuous for 1.5 hours to get to (or try to get to) 68, until daytime setting of 60. In the afternoon they will run again for about an hour to get to 68. That's still better than running most of the night and day. They have to really work to maintain 68. And when it's colder than 20-25 outside, its pretty much all electric after that. Why heat an empty house or when everybody's asleep? Compressor life is another issue, is it number of starts or actual running time that determines the lifetime?

Thanks again for all replies.
 
#15 ·
It is my understanding that when the compressor is running it uses less electricity than when it starts and stops. Also a compressor running is less subject to wear than one that starts and stops a lot. This is the reason the pros here are so adamant about not over sizing equipment. It uses more energy to keep you less comfortable. Also, it has been said here that once all the "stuff" in your house gets cold it takes a lot more to get it warmed up.

Pros, please correct any of the above that is mistaken.
 
#16 ·
steve669 said:
Not too mention that when stepping up to a higher temperature, the heat pump is running the most at it's most inefficient time, the coldest part of the day, instead of just maintaining in the not so cold temps. Then there is the defrost issue.

How'd I do for a rookie non-pro?
Click to expand...
Actually, I think his recovery is at the highest possible outdoor temp. Lets say he goes to sleep at 11 PM, and sets back the temp to 60 (perhaps an hour earlier than he hits the sheets). In the morning, a quick shower and straight to work. If he gets home at 5 PM, he is probably in recovery starting at 3 PM, when the outdoor temp has peaked for the day.

So the temp delta has been lowered for 19 out of 24 hours, and if in fact his heat pump can recover without the use of heat strips, such a strategy would save a significant amount of energy.

gt2nome said:
If I leave the temperature setting at 68 at night, hp will run most of the night (heat loss is greater than hp output). If I set for 60, it will run continuous for 1.5 hours to get to (or try to get to) 68, until daytime setting of 60. In the afternoon they will run again for about an hour to get to 68. That's still better than running most of the night and day. They have to really work to maintain 68. And when it's colder than 20-25 outside, its pretty much all electric after that. Why heat an empty house or when everybody's asleep? Compressor life is another issue, is it number of starts or actual running time that determines the lifetime?
Click to expand...
Is my above reply close to what the actual situation is? If so, I think your strategy is sound. I believe for compressors, the number of starts is more important than total run time. Kind of like that light bulb that Edison just left on 24 hours a day and it lasted decades. If true for compressors too, you win there too!
 
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