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Well that's something I wish had been explained before having this unit installed. I have some hope though, as the return air register is in the hallway, so I can for the most part stop the conditioned air from getting to it.
Did you tell the contractor specifically you wanted it 59* in the house?


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Did you tell the contractor specifically you wanted it 59* in the house?


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You can't tell them that or you won't be able to get anyone to do it.
I've got the perfect house for them. It's a modular home built by Bally and I would recommend getting a Trenton cooling system.
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
I just meant most of the cooled air will stay in the rooms if I don't leave the doors open. Obviously the rooms aren't air tight, but the return air would largely be drawn from the hallway the return air register is in. I wouldn't block return airflow, just try to contain as much conditioned air as I can from getting to it so the return air sensor doesn't trip at 67°.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
No. It never occurred to me that was something I would need to specify. I don't even want it set to 59°, but 62° or 63° would be far more acceptable floor than 67°.
 
No. It never occurred to me that was something I would need to specify. I don't even want it set to 59°, but 62° or 63° would be far more acceptable floor than 67°.
Standard indoor temperatures are around 75°f. Around 70°f or lower you start risking condensing water in the walls and causing mold on humid days. Personally I am cold at 75°f if the humidity is 40% or lower. Most of the time when someone thinks they need it that cold there is a humidity problem.
 
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Standard indoor temperatures are around 75°f. Around 70°f or lower you start risking condensing water in the walls and causing mold on humid days. Personally I am cold at 75°f if the humidity is 40% or lower. Most of the time when someone thinks they need it that cold there is a humidity problem.
Or a weight problem.


Even if you could set it to 62, and it could hit 62 on mild days, it wont be able to accomplish that at 85 degrees outside.

In 18 years, thats is offically the coldest ive seen someone try to make their house.
 
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Discussion starter · #27 ·
Well since I've never lived in a low humidity region, I guess I'll never know if 75° can be comfortable at 40% humidity. The only time the humidity gets that low here is when it gets bellow freezing.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
When I lived in Oklahoma it would get up into the 110°s, even low 120°s, and we could get the inside of the house into the low 60°s with single zone systems, and I knew people who could keep their house a chilly 55° with multi-zoned systems. In 43 years, the highest low temperature setting I've ever seen was 62, which is why I never thought to ask what it would be for this system.
 
When I lived in Oklahoma it would get up into the 110°s, even low 120°s, and we could get the inside of the house into the low 60°s with single zone systems, and I knew people who could keep their house a chilly 55° with multi-zoned systems. In 43 years, the highest low temperature setting I've ever seen was 62, which is why I never thought to ask what it would be for this system.
I always just assume people are going to run their units between 70 and 75. So if they run it colder they need to tell me.

I’m with r600 that I’m betting you have a humidity issue. I have my unit set for 75 and 50% humidity and it is comfortable

How old is the house?

Have you ever tested the humidity?

Where is the house located


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Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
This unit came with a humidity reading, and I have no reason currently to doubt it is reading true, but I've never had any sort of testing done. Comparing what the thermostat is reading and my phone's sensors, it's either 37% or 44.1% humidity as I type this. The house is about 120 years old, but the area of the house with the new HVAC system has been remodeled with new insulation and windows in the last 5 years. The bottom floor has oil heat and window unit ACs for now. I'm in Central New England, right near a bunch of water, but on the east side of a mountain ridge, so the rain drops on the mountains and then we usually only get the humidity that didn't coalesce into rain. This valley's best chance of rain is when the front comes up the coast from the south so that it feeds into the valley, but then those are really humid storm fronts, so they don't usually bring any relief. I guess I'll have to wait until we get into the heat of the summer and see if I have to buy a separate dehumidifier for a room or two.

Edit: Just wanted to be clear those are humidity readings from inside.
 
When I lived in Oklahoma it would get up into the 110°s, even low 120°s, and we could get the inside of the house into the low 60°s with single zone systems, and I knew people who could keep their house a chilly 55° with multi-zoned systems. In 43 years, the highest low temperature setting I've ever seen was 62, which is why I never thought to ask what it would be for this system.
Southwestern Oklahoma is where I am located and I have seen some Insanity when it comes to indoor temperatures for example I used to work with a guy who would turn his thermostat down to 60° at night and it would get there cuz it was that horribly oversized of course his humidity was 60 to 70% a lot of the time and I can only imagine how bad the inside of the walls would look if anybody ever opens them up but he thought it was the greatest thing.
Personally I won't install an air conditioner if I know the customer wants to keep a below 65°. I just don't want the liability. Mold causes far too many lawsuits for me to risk it.

It might be a good time to go get some blood work done and talk to a doctor and figure out if something is wrong that could be treated.
 
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Discussion starter · #32 ·
Or it might be a good time for you to exit a conversation you obviously don't want to partake in in good faith. Different people have different comfort levels. It doesn't mean they have something wrong with them. You don't have to come visit me in my 65 degree home, so if you don't have something constructive, and pertinent to my original question, to say, see yourself out.
 
Or it might be a good time for you to exit a conversation you obviously don't want to partake in in good faith. Different people have different comfort levels. It doesn't mean they have something wrong with them. You don't have to come visit me in my 65 degree home, so if you don't have something constructive, and pertinent to my original question, to say, see yourself out.
Ill agree anything much below 70°F is unrealistic. If you want 60°F hire a commercial refrigeration contractor.

You might want to play nice with the people trying to help you.

For FREE I'll add!
 
Hey guys, I love it cold. I totally get the OP’s desires. Our bedroom is in the 50’s in the Winter, and my Mitsubishi keeps it around 62 in the Summer. I’m out working in the heat all day. I want it damn cold when I get home.
 
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Discussion starter · #35 ·
Some of the people were not even trying to help me, much like yourself. I didn't come here for medical advice, or musings on what other people think is a comfortable temperature. Such "help" is unwelcome, and unhelpful, no matter the price. Try being professional and sticking to the question, or just don't reply. The first couple of people who replied did a wonderful job of explaining how my system works so that I now understand it better, pretty much everyone else, including you, have just been a peanut gallery.
 
An air conditioner removes the heat from the air. Below 68° there is not enough heat in the air thus damage can be done to the equipment.
Perhaps a P series unit allows a lower temp? I don’t know but others will.


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Discussion starter · #38 ·
An air conditioner removes the heat from the air. Below 68° there is not enough heat in the air thus damage can be done to the equipment.
Perhaps a P series unit allows a lower temp? I don’t know but others will.


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I mean, technically, there's a whole lot of heat between 68 Fahrenheit and 0 Kelvin, but I get what you are saying. There's not much I can do about it now except use my little AC on wheels if it gets unbearable. Maybe if/when I decide to put AC into first floor I might upgrade the unit, but then that'll be a whole different system since it would be used to force the air in from the floor via the basement, and the current system brings the air to the second floor ceiling from the attic. These old houses are beautiful, and the timber they used is great (2x12s actually being 2 inches by 12 inches!), but they don't easily allow for installing modern conveniences.
 
So one of the difficulties with cooling lower than 67° is that the evaporator for needs to be 30° to 35° cooler than the return air. So 67° retire puts you right around 32° and any lower and it's going to try to start making ice.
The reason people can often get away with it is that their systems are so oversized that they don't run very long during peak load so even though they are running the evaporator at freezing temperatures they have time between cycles to thaw.
Here's the dilemma if it's not running long enough it's not going to dehumidify very well and if the humidity is higher you are going to feel hot and you're going to turn it down. So many times people think they have to have the house really cool when in reality if their system was sized and adjusted correctly so it could control humidity and they had a whole house dehumidifier if necessary for good humidity control they would not be able to handle it so cold because the lower humidity would keep them comfortable at a higher temperature.

Also I apologize for mentioning going to a doctor. I didn't mean to offend you. I just know there are medical conditions that can affect your comfort levels and untreated they can cause far worse issues in the long run so I figured it was something to think about.
 
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