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Torque wrench for mini-split tubing nuts...

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21K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  JayMan7  
#1 ·
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#2 ·
I have cps' version of that one. I love it. Way better than the click style with crows feet. The click style after a year or two started to stick and became a liability. The readout is nice. So you can tell how close you are. I dont really have a draw back. I can use adjustable wrenches but I can't feel when ÂĽ" is tight. I usually with ÂĽ" and â…ś" when I dont have the wrench I set them hand tight and flow nitro until the leak stops. Bubbles are involved in this method as well. Hope this helps...

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J
#4 ·
The CPS interchange head one is horrible. I hate even touching a tool that’s so horrible...you know how you feel disgusted just by the feel of it’s cheapness.

I don’t think I’d pay $180 for a torque wrench though. Torque isn’t an exact thing. For example, lubing a flare nut is going to change how it torques. I think it’s best to just torque it in a common sense way. IMHO manufacturers recommend torque because there are so many dumb people out there they have to cover their ass from warranty claims. I would never discourage anyone from using a torque wrench but I think if you’re competent you’d be fine without one. The most important thing is making a quality flare. A shitty flare is going to leak no matter how it’s torqued.
 
#5 ·
You're referring to the crow's feet right? 7 or so different sizes. That bugger is junk. The adjustable torque wrenches are all pretty much the same. But you are supposed to oil that bugger up. A drop on the back of the flare a smidgen on the face of both male and female ends and a drop or two on the threads. Let her run till she chirps and don't worry about it again. But yes it does start with a proper flare.

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M
#7 ·
I bought the YJ adjustable wrench this year after a bit of testing, I use it on every flared install. At first, I thought it was over tightening the flare nuts. Come to find out the wrench works great on the factory flares that come on the equipment (I used Mitsubishi). I tried using the flare nuts that came preinstalled on the line set, but they would not torque. I felt like I was going to strip them out. Not the case with the Mitsubishi oem flare nuts.
 
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M
#9 ·
I have the YJ kit. I like it. As others have said: the nuts that come with line sets often won't take the equipment manufacturer's torque spec. Stick with the forged nuts that come with the equipment. Also oil or Nylog on sliding surfaces will change the clamping force for any given torque. In this application, it is the clamping force that is what needs to be right. Torque is just a means to that end.

Unless otherwise specified, torque specs are for clean dry threads and surfaces. If you are going to use oil, back off of the torque to some degree. I only use the torque wrench on lines 1/2" and up. I prefer to go by feel on anything smaller. Lots of people who do a lot of mini splits do not use torque wrenches and they don't have leaks. I think for people who don't do a lot of mini splits a torque wrench is beneficial.
 
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