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Discussion starter · #43 ·
I have a question for anyone who might know or have an opinion.
The original crank seal was pressed about 1/8 in further in but I only had a flat item to press mine in with and I don't have anything to push it further so I'm wondering if it will be a problem that I have it flush?
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socket and hammer

I would go about 1/16 more

Pick a socket that covers pretty much the whole seal ... without hitting the alum

I've also used PVC pipe , Gas Pipe
 
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Discussion starter · #45 ·
I think I'm out of luck on that one. I couldn't find a way to do it and I already put the motor together.

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Discussion starter · #46 ·
Well I got the sump assembled and torqued to 15 uga duga's, the valves lapped, the head and piston cleaned, the head assembled and torqued to 20 uga duga's. Now I just need to buy a new feeler gauge to replace the one that is playing hide and seek, set the valves, replace the dip stick tube o-ring, get a new sparkplug and oil filter and I should be good to go.
Oh and I replaced the camshaft since I had a new one sitting there.
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Looking good! You will have to do a compression test still after being back together as I don’t see the cylinder walls cleaned up..garbage will build up in the rings..valve check after warmup also...

I would reset that seal...(Home Depot) thick fender washers should also work and you can grind it to fit the opening if it looks oversized.....advanced auto has the seal kits (free to use) pay first then return (refund) we like doing things the right way
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
Looking good! You will have to do a compression test still after being back together as I don’t see the cylinder walls cleaned up..garbage will build up in the rings..valve check after warmup also...

I would reset that seal...(Home Depot) thick fender washers should also work and you can grind it to fit the opening if it looks oversized.....advanced auto has the seal kits (free to use) pay first then return (refund) we like doing things the right way
I didn't pull the piston because I am trying to limit the cost a bit on this project.
When I start it I will run some sea foam in the intake. That does amazing for cleaning the rings. You can see the carbon in the oil when you drain it afterwards.
The factory finish in the cylinder wasn't perfect but it was still plenty good.
I will have to pick up a new seal because I am pretty sure the lock tite isn't going to let me move the seal. Is it normal to put loctite on the outside of a seal? I did but I wasn't sure if it was required.
I like the washer idea but I think I will buy a seal driver if I can find one for less than $100.
I have several engines that I will need to replace seals on and it has some use in appliance repair too.

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Discussion starter · #49 ·
I just set the valves and it was such a hassle finding the specification that I decided to engrave it on the inside of the valve cover.
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Discussion starter · #50 ·
I finally got an oil filter and a battery but I think I am out of time to install them today. The motor is back together and mounted.

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Discussion starter · #51 ·
I got it back together and running. It is a bit rattly but I noticed some slop in the rod bearing so I am just going to switch to diesel oil and try to get another motor to build for when this one windows the block. At least now I can mow my lawn before I get a fine.
The noise could be related to the counterweight system but I don't know how to differentiate.

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Discussion starter · #52 ·
I didn't reset the crank seal as I really needed it back together today but my next one will be done right.
I prefer the IC line of twin cylinder opposed engines. They are so much nicer. Then again I just like flathead engines.

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I didn't pull the piston because I am trying to limit the cost a bit on this project.
When I start it I will run some sea foam in the intake. That does amazing for cleaning the rings. You can see the carbon in the oil when you drain it afterwards.
The factory finish in the cylinder wasn't perfect but it was still plenty good.
I will have to pick up a new seal because I am pretty sure the lock tite isn't going to let me move the seal. Is it normal to put loctite on the outside of a seal? I did but I wasn't sure if it was required.
I like the washer idea but I think I will buy a seal driver if I can find one for less than $100.
I have several engines that I will need to replace seals on and it has some use in appliance repair too.

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Never ever used lock tite on a seal...no reason to..it’s pressfit! Lol..
You can see on YouTube many different examples of ways to fit seals...you can edge tap it in also with the washers and sockets...a closed end wrench also works...you are not going very deep to set the seal, a little patience goes a long way...

I pull the piston to inspect it...never used sea foam for cleaning rings...I check the ring gap..do I know the compression will be good..and you are also checking the bearing journals and piston rod for wear...

The is a video of a guy replacing his truck engine with a used one he bought ...cleaning the heads, fancy paint , new timing chain, new cam...puts all this money into it...guess what happened when he installs it! Rod knock and low oil pressure! Like duh! Lol...he ignored the smallest of details that’s actually the most important...
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Never ever used lock tite on a seal...no reason to..it’s pressfit! Lol..
You can see on YouTube many different examples of ways to fit seals...you can edge tap it in also with the washers and sockets...a closed end wrench also works...you are not going very deep to set the seal, a little patience goes a long way...

I pull the piston to inspect it...never used sea foam for cleaning rings...I check the ring gap..do I know the compression will be good..and you are also checking the bearing journals and piston rod for wear...

The is a video of a guy replacing his truck engine with a used one he bought ...cleaning the heads, fancy paint , new timing chain, new cam...puts all this money into it...guess what happened when he installs it! Rod knock and low oil pressure! Like duh! Lol...he ignored the smallest of details that’s actually the most important...
Yeah I was pretty sure when I was spinning things around with the side cover off that there was some looseness in the lower end bearing. there was also a little bit of scoring in the main PTO side bearing so I figure I just need this engine to last the summer and I will work on finding a replacement. I just found a guy on Facebook that looks like he's got a bunch of the IC line of Flathead cast iron cylinder engines which are some of my favorite so I am going to contact him and see if I can get a complete engine to totally rebuild and swap it out.
I used to know a guy who would definitely have a spare motor. He was a world war II veteran who ran a mower shop out of his backyard. He died 2 years ago. I sure miss talking with him he was a really interesting guy. He only quit working on mowers a year before he died. He ended up getting pneumonia several times he thought from the dust from laying under lawn mowers at 90 something years old so he finally went into the veteran center and man was he living it up riding around on his little electric cart playing cards and chatting with the other old guys he was sure having a good time but he only lasted about a year. It was nice to see him happy for that last year though.
Pretty much anybody who's been in the area for 10 years and had anything to do with a lawn mower knows his name.
I've still got a few motors he sold me and two of my friends have two more motors that he sold me.
My boss has a 22 horse Tecumseh twin cylinder that I bought just after he went into the veteran center for $125 and I put it on my boss's zero turn mower because his 19 horse Briggs was shot.
Another friend has my old cub cadet lawn mower I used when I was in landscaping that I bought from him for $1300.
One time the nurse came in and found him laying on the floor and sorta freaked out but he was fine he was just working on his mobility cart.

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Nice! I love the back country places..it a time warp, lol..I found a guy in his 80s still doing the same...but he was able to hear what the problem was...because he did it so long...still using microfiche also! He wife said that he recommends a part to get it because he is right 99.5% of the time...to save a trip back, lol..

When I work on something and I have it apart , it’s going to be built to last, lol or if it’s in bad shape I can part it out
 
In one of my earlier incarnations I worked as an airplane mechanic. Small airplanes and jets.
When rebuilding we were asked to sand blast the pistons to clean them. I worried about the affect
on the piston lands. Rounding the edge. But there seemed no real negative effect.
In my head, sand and engines don't mix. But I can change, if I have to, I guess.......
 
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Discussion starter · #57 ·
I thought you might find this interesting. The seat switch was giving me fits so I did a quick Google search and found this video it's short and to the point.
It mentions Craftsman and Husqvarna but mine is Airens which is made by Husqvarna so this covers several other brands they don't mention.
It works like a charm I was honestly surprised that this wasn't fake.
https://youtu.be/MT14zEPxMHw

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I thought you might find this interesting. The seat switch was giving me fits so I did a quick Google search and found this video it's short and to the point.
It mentions Craftsman and Husqvarna but mine is Airens which is made by Husqvarna so this covers several other brands they don't mention.
It works like a charm I was honestly surprised that this wasn't fake.
https://youtu.be/MT14zEPxMHw

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So is it permanent meaning once your done working on it can it be reinstalled?
 
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Discussion starter · #59 ·
So is it permanent meaning once your done working on it can it be reinstalled?
What it does is bypasses the seat switch only when the seat switch is unplugged. If you plug in the seat switch it'll work as it always did.

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