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Gas pressure in gauge after furnace ins & before connecting natural gas from provider

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alexth

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Gas pressure in gauge after furnace ins & before connecting natural gas from provider

Hi All, I need your advice urgently. I recently changed my furnace to natural gas and they set 5 pounds pressure to connect the natural gas, but by the time natural gas provider comes (in two days), it is reducing to 0. My reputed HVAC installer redid the plumbing and put 10 pounds pressure and it reduced to 8 pounds in first day and 5 pounds in second day. Why it is reducing too quickly ? Is any leakage of gas ? How can I come out of this situation ? Is it safe to connect natural gas now ? Please advise me.
 
#3 ·
10 pounds is too little pressure to test as far as I'm concerned. You have a leak somewhere and the gas company isn't going to connect to a leaky system. Call your contractor they will have to come back and find that leak.
 
#4 ·
yeah I would surely get this checked out as soon as you can. there has got to be gas leakage or there is a air lock in the system. make sure to bleed the gas lines professionally (im sure they already did) but there is a loss somewhere and the only way that would happen is one of those two things.... other than those would be incorrectly piped off another appliance thats using gas but I doubt this.
 
#5 ·
looks like they have to start bubble spraying all the joints and valves. If the piping itself is very old it may be porous, too.
 
#6 ·
Are there any appliances hooked up? Are the appliances and furnace valved off? 10psi is enough to do damage to those little valves/regulators.
 
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#10 ·
eh, i've put high pressure to them before. :rolleyes: as long as the internals are all at the same pressure everything will be fine so long as the pressure inside doesnt exceed component breakability :whistle:

the official OEM word is not over 125% Max operating pressure
 
#13 ·
But what about the appliances?
On another note, I have 1 1/8" line with 5psi to my house and still have a regulator before the meter...
 
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#14 ·
BennyD said:
But what about the appliances?
On another note, I have 1 1/8" line with 5psi to my house and still have a regulator before the meter...
Click to expand...
The appliances can take up to the max input on the gas valves. Ideally for a test, the line should be disconnected and capped. Valving it off isnt enough.

Your personal house would be whatever the max operating of the meter would be times 1.25 if it's an American Meter/AC-250/Honeywell product.
 
#15 ·
Yeah... I just realized what I said was stupid. A meter is that, a METER. Of course I would need a regulator. Putting it before the inlet on the high pressure side makes more sense. Duh.
 
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#16 ·
BennyD said:
Yeah... I just realized what I said was stupid. A meter is that, a METER. Of course I would need a regulator. Putting it before the inlet on the high pressure side makes more sense. Duh.
Click to expand...
Unless you have a high pressure meter, then each regulator would need to be before every appliance. That;'s rare for residential in our area.
 
#18 ·
There is a leak somewhere that needs to be addressed. Also why the pound gauge, seems like a lot of pressure for something that is going to operate at 11" wc. give or take a little. We always use WC gauges, our utilities won't even accept a pound gauge. Each area is different though so I suppose it's okay for your area.
 
#19 ·
Agreed.
We specifically have to use a Coleman gauge.
 
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#20 ·
bhenry1013 said:
There is a leak somewhere that needs to be addressed. Also why the pound gauge, seems like a lot of pressure for something that is going to operate at 11" wc. give or take a little. We always use WC gauges, our utilities won't even accept a pound gauge. Each area is different though so I suppose it's okay for your area.
Click to expand...
If this gauge is testing the lines for leakage, in my area, a 2-5psi gas supply needs to hold 15psi for 10 minutes with no drop.
If they are only putting 10psi on it, my inspector would fail.
My gas lines hold 20 psi for 10plus days... enough for the inspector to bleed out some pressure prior to timing it.
 
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