My churches food pantry built a walk in cooler from several purchases. Ending up with a 24' x 10' x 8' high with two five fan evaps and a two fan Tecumseh condensing unit. It has what looks like a receiver on both high and low sides with backseating service valves. It took nearly a week to pump this down to 150 microns. I have no clue how much Freon (r22) to put into this to start it up and rather sketchy about the procedure. Can anyone give me any guidance on this?
Charging a walk in cooler
icyflame
41 - 59 of 59 Posts
Why not just put in a single phase pump?
The system came as a complete working package, "Professionally disassembled" We were assured 3 phase was available on the property. Property owner was mistaken.
I did use a 1/4" hose and manifold set. I did pressurize the system with nitrogen and soaped each fitting. pumped it down four times and broke the vacuum each time with dry nitrogen. The system is tight and dry.
not sure. I know when I put the Freon in it, the OD temp was 37 and the condenser fans did not come on. I will check that Monday.
That would be nice. East side of Lancaster, Ohio 20 miles south of Columbus. Really if anyone came to help solve the problem I'm sure I could come up with something for you
What's the status?
On page two you said you have 15lbs of refrigerant in it, but it pumps down to 3psi and shuts off.
Are you sure the liquid line solenoid is opening? All service valves open? King valve on receiver backseated?
Maybe the TXV power head lost its charge due to rough handling when evap was being uninstalled and reinstalled?
On page two you said you have 15lbs of refrigerant in it, but it pumps down to 3psi and shuts off.
Are you sure the liquid line solenoid is opening? All service valves open? King valve on receiver backseated?
Maybe the TXV power head lost its charge due to rough handling when evap was being uninstalled and reinstalled?
I just don't have any info. I know that the charge will vary due to length of the line set, I was hoping to figurer out a starting point. Such as how much Freon does the evaps require and the condenser including receiver and accumulator: or have someone say break your vacuum with liguid Freon to nuterual then start it up and go from there.
I have fifteen pounds of Freon in the system. I have no activity in the sight glass at all. I'm hoping I have the king valves in the proper position but not sure.
Generally speaking, turning the stems fully counter-clockwise is open, and fully clockwise is closed.
If it's a ball valve, having the stem inline with the valve is open, and having the stem at 90 degrees to the valve is closed.
On valves that use an Allen wrench, you can simply hook gauges up to the service ports and read system pressure.
On valves that have a square stem, you will have to mid-seat the valve in order to read pressure once you hook your gauges up.
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Alright...
Been reading along and kind of playing along, now I'm gonna weigh in.
I'd come out to help you, but Columbus is about a 3.5 hour drive for me, so that's kind of out of the question.
You've got a clean, dry system.
First thing you gotta do is look behind the receiver. That is the tank that the condenser empties into.
Is there a valve between the condenser and the receiver? It will typically look kinda like a mushroom.
If so, we have to add a step when we're charging, but we'll get to that.
You've done a bit much already, so we have to backtrack.
First, pump the system down. Disconnect the low pressure control and set it using nitrogen. If the labels on the system are correct, set it to cut in at 9 and to cut out at 0.
Now, reconnect and pull your vacuum again.
Backseat those valves all the way, then frontseat them 1/2 turn or so.
Hook up a refrigerant drum and add refrigerant into the valve on the accumulator. You WILL see frost on the suction line leading through the receiver and into the compressor. Don't worry about it too much. I'll typically stop adding liquid when the frost line reaches the compressor and allow the lines to warm up a bit.
Once it gets charged to the point where it stays running, just kind of watch it. Don't charge to clear the glass, YET. We will, relax.
Let the box get down to temp or within a few degrees.
Now, we gotta deal with the sightglass. Charge to clear it. JUST to clear it.
Remember that valve I had you look for? If it is there, then you have to charge the system to account for the condenser flooding.
http://sporlanonline.com/literature/90/90-31.pdf
I use the document I just linked to. Read it twice, then follow the calculations. If you need help, post the info requested by the document and one of us can help you work through it.
No valve? Yeah, you're still gonna have to add a good bit of refrigerant past a clear sightglass. I don't see many systems without a headmaster valve or other means of low ambient control except fan cycling, but those few that I have seen, I typically add about the same that the headmaster charts call for.
Been reading along and kind of playing along, now I'm gonna weigh in.
I'd come out to help you, but Columbus is about a 3.5 hour drive for me, so that's kind of out of the question.
You've got a clean, dry system.
First thing you gotta do is look behind the receiver. That is the tank that the condenser empties into.
Is there a valve between the condenser and the receiver? It will typically look kinda like a mushroom.
If so, we have to add a step when we're charging, but we'll get to that.
You've done a bit much already, so we have to backtrack.
First, pump the system down. Disconnect the low pressure control and set it using nitrogen. If the labels on the system are correct, set it to cut in at 9 and to cut out at 0.
Now, reconnect and pull your vacuum again.
Backseat those valves all the way, then frontseat them 1/2 turn or so.
Hook up a refrigerant drum and add refrigerant into the valve on the accumulator. You WILL see frost on the suction line leading through the receiver and into the compressor. Don't worry about it too much. I'll typically stop adding liquid when the frost line reaches the compressor and allow the lines to warm up a bit.
Once it gets charged to the point where it stays running, just kind of watch it. Don't charge to clear the glass, YET. We will, relax.
Let the box get down to temp or within a few degrees.
Now, we gotta deal with the sightglass. Charge to clear it. JUST to clear it.
Remember that valve I had you look for? If it is there, then you have to charge the system to account for the condenser flooding.
http://sporlanonline.com/literature/90/90-31.pdf
I use the document I just linked to. Read it twice, then follow the calculations. If you need help, post the info requested by the document and one of us can help you work through it.
No valve? Yeah, you're still gonna have to add a good bit of refrigerant past a clear sightglass. I don't see many systems without a headmaster valve or other means of low ambient control except fan cycling, but those few that I have seen, I typically add about the same that the headmaster charts call for.
OK JPSmith1cm Ive changed my schedule for tomorrow and will recover the Freon, and will be ready to proceed.
Bump
At this time i'm not sure how it's wired, but I will find out.
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