HVAC-Talk: Heating, Air & Refrigeration Discussion banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

How do they move new furnace into attic???

Jump to Latest
21 - 40 of 46 Posts
#21 ·
Yes indeed. Yanking the blower on these newer units almost knocks off half the weight. To the OP, I am not commenting on your unit problems. Too much to read right now anyway. If you plan on replacing relax. It's not a big deal especially with two guys to get one up and down. Just find a place they can move that washer and dryer to
vstech said:
I've done attic installs by myself without a lift. Removing the blower, tying a rope to the unit and lifting is fairly simple.
It's easier with a lift, and a helper makes quick work of it
Click to expand...
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Just got this from the Customer Service guy at the furnace company in response to me asking if my washer and dryer need to be moved.

"...We don’t think the appliances will be in the way. Everything will be covered with drop clothes. There will be an extra set of hands there to help them as well. They will have ropes to help with lowering and raising the unit as well. They’ve done this before and they will be very careful..."

So it sounds like two guys (or maybe 3 with his "extra set" and "them" comment) and ropes. Wish me well. Thanks for all the responses... bob
 
#23 ·
Why does a new house have a 100,000 BTU heat loss? Did the insulation contractor not show up?
 
Save
Like Like
#24 ·
locally there is a hvac company that the owner/installer
& tech installers are both ladies.
they use a block & tackle type thing.

works well. little ladies...probably 130 lbs max.

best of luck.
 
Save
Like Like
#25 ·
Wow. Good for you, reading the install manual. The real issue will be when they figure out the old furnace won't fit through the access. To many times they add trim reducing the width . one more trip up the ladder to measure. This way they can have a carpenter show up too. 20" hole won't fit a 21" wide furnace

PS those 10' ceiling are more of a hassle. I would put a throw rug over the washer dryer in case they drop a tool
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Can anyone suggest whether or not I should demand (and perhaps even pay for myself if the furnace company won't) a new city inspection on the furnace install?? This home is in a large retirement communtiy (2200 homes on the way to 3000) in a very small town. One city inspector who I've met and now know. He said "yes" when I asked if I should request a new permit be pulled and issued for this "reinstall". The furnace company claims it's simply a part for part replacement so no inpsection should be required. The city inspector did tell me recently that he only has time to "give a look" at each of many inspections he does on all these new homes so I'm not sure of the value of doing another inspection. Your thoughts???

Also, somewhat surprisingly, the furnace company itself said if you do another inspection then the inspector may well want another "duct test". I'm way outta my league here on knowing what to ask for, what to demand, or what to just let pass regarding inspections.

So they are removing one furnace which supposedly has a bad secondary heat exchanger (restricted consdensate flow) and replacing it with a new version of the same. The original one was installed only six months or so ago.

So should I ask for a new city inspection??? Duct test??? Your thoughts??? thanks.. bob
 
#28 ·
it's all about your insurance.

if something goes wrong in the house resulting in a payout, and the insurance company finds that the installed equipment has not been inspected, they can deny the claim.

how can the company justify that it's simply a part being changed, when the ENTIRE FURNACE is not even being installed in the same location as the original one?

I'd go a step further, and request a full load calculation be shown for the house. 100K is a large furnace. that better be a large house!
 
#29 ·
If they are swapping it out with the same model and a duct test was done before I don't see why they would need another test. I would have them pul a permit, you already are having isues and if anything happened down the road you will have documentation of this install and inspection. your call but I recommend it.
 
#30 ·
I would not get to OCD, couple things. We don't even know which state your in. California requires a duct test on a new install, but if your system passed that before switching out the cabinet should not be a big issue. Even here I would not be required to do a duct test as it was just 6 months ago. I would stick with your furnace has a problem and the company is fixing it. ( if asked)

Do you know how big of an A/c unit you have?
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
A number of questions were posed. This house IS in California. Built between March-June, 2014 by Shea Homes. All permitting for building the house was done by Shea and we were not offered any set of permits for the new home. The permitting done during the build is between Shea and the city I suppose. We do know that Shea works closely with the nearby city, Rio Vista, Ca., and we are told "everything is constucted to code". My world of permits began when we took possession of the house. I've had an outdoor arbor and outdoor outlets installed. Both were done by me requiring the respective contractors to pull a permit which I paid for. Now this furnace makes for permit episode three for me. The city is saying I need one. The furnace company says I don't. If they stick with that and I decide I must have one, I either whine or pay for it myself.

The house is 2100 square feet. Someone said the furnace is to be replaced in "some other location". Sorry if I suggested that as that's not true. This is removing one Trane XB 90 Furnace, specific model #TUC1C100A9481A and replacing it with one exactly like it and in exactly the same location as the previous one, but hopefully with a better secondary heat exchanger in the new unit. This is a standard model, tract home and it's my understanding (though I've not observed it myself) that all homes like our's has this same 100,000 BTU furnace.

Someone asked about the A/C unit. It is a Trane, see picture attached for nameplate info. bob...
 
#32 ·
3.5 tons of A/C

They are using the higher BTU furnace to blow more air as you have 10' ceilings. Or since your house is located in a wind tunnel they are making up for that.

FWIW the inspector can't find everything. Its up to the installer to put it in as the manufacture states.
The inspector will pop his head up into the attic and say yep looks good.

I need one of these
Image
 
#33 ·
100k of heat on a new 2100sqft house in CA is nuts. 50k should be plenty if the insulation contractor did his job. Make sure an accurate Man J is done before replacing.
 
Save
Like Like
Discussion starter · #34 ·
r-290 said:
3.5 tons of A/C

They are using the higher BTU furnace to blow more air as you have 10' ceilings. Or since your house is located in a wind tunnel they are making up for that.

FWIW the inspector can't find everything. Its up to the installer to put it in as the manufacture states.
The inspector will pop his head up into the attic and say yep looks good.

I need one of these
Image
Click to expand...
I hear what you say regarding the inspector only being able to do so much. I moved from a nearby town, 50 miles away, where they typically inspect two if not three times during a project. I did a furnace there many years ago and there were multiple inspections. Here, on the other hand, they have one inspector for the entire town including this development of 2200 homes (and 800 more to come). And so far all I've seen is them doing what I would call "finals", when a project is done. I even asked the inspector what sort of inspection he does on say furnaces and he said he only has time to (just what you said), "give it a look". I'm more insterested in just doing everything "according to code" for whatever that's worth. Again, he says I need one. The furnace company says it's not required. And I am the homeowner just trying to do the right thing. Period.

thanks. bob
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
One other question I have is about furnace filters. There are three filters, a little guy (8x8x1) for an air handler that lets in some outside air to mix with recirulating air. Then there is one back in the Master Bedroom that is 14 x 14 x 1. Then there is the main filter in the main air return in the central hallway. That one is 20 x 30 x 1. I've been religiously keeping clean filters in all of them as there is still tons of construction going on around and at least back in the warmer weather there was tons of dirt in the air. I've been buying $3 filters (for the 20 x 20) from ACE Hardware. One thing I notice is that when the air is running, the filter is being pulled on so hard, even a brand new one, that the filter appears to be trying to bend under the wind force. Seems like that would present a high load to the blower. Yes??? No??? The furnace guy looked at our filter and told us to stop buying those and instead install "fiberglass" which I've seen at Home Depot at 74 cents each. Can't be much good, yes??? Or he suggested buying a reusable filter with an electrostatic material. I don't know what those are but instead I did just buy a $25 filter from Home Depot. Their top of the line, supposedly filters everything. I did it just to see particulary if air moves through it more easily than these other, cheaper filters. Answer is no. I put it in a couple days ago and I it also distorts inward as the air blows. Just seems like a lot of load for the blower motor. Any advice on what are the best filters to use??? thanks... bob
 
#36 ·
Sounds to me like not enough ductwork for that beast of a furnace. Installing a smaller furnace fixes the "filter slap" issue.
 
Save
Like Like
#37 ·
r-290 said:
I need one of these
Image
Click to expand...
They are nice. Note the specs say 10 ' lift... They go another 2' when you pull the pins and reverse the forks, but then you have to lift the item up 2' to set on the higher forks.
I have use to one like this, and I own the larger SLA5 series.
 
#38 ·
If you want to have your system tested, then duct testing would do that more then an inspection. Inspectors use those reports to know how the system is performing. This allows inspectors to look for other things that are not right.
EXTERNAL STATIC PRESSURE is what your talking about with the filters.
The return ducts and supply ducts create this ESP. At .5 ( the recommend ESP) your furnace on low blows around 1,500 cfm. I like to see 200 sq inches of filter for every 400 cfm. So 1,500/2=750
you have a 20x30= 600 , 14x14= 196, 8x8=64 = 860 so your filter sq inch area is fine.

I would ask that they show you the ESP, then you will know. Things I can't see on my screen is how the ducts where installed, but most new homes are built right as the HVAC contractor has to follow whats in the blue prints.
 
#39 ·
vstech said:
They are nice. Note the specs say 10 ' lift... They go another 2' when you pull the pins and reverse the forks, but then you have to lift the item up 2' to set on the higher forks.
I have use to one like this, and I own the larger SLA5 series.
Click to expand...

The issue for me is the tight spaces you have to get into. A lot of homes have the attic access in the closet.:gah:
Sometimes I add a new return in the hallway and that gives me access. Or cut a new access somewhere. 2-3 guys can push one up on most homes, but not so easy on those 10' ceiling jobs, you need a lift or pulley setup.
 
#40 ·
No big deal. I used this when I first started and worked by myself.
 

Attachments

Save
Like Like
21 - 40 of 46 Posts
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
About this Discussion
45 Replies
17 Participants
Last post:
r-290
HVAC-Talk: Heating, Air & Refrigeration Discussion
posts
5M
members
275K
Since
2000
The #1 HVACR Community
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
AOP Residential HVAC/Refrigeration(Beenthere Zone) General Discussion Tech to Tech Chat - Residential Controls Refrigeration & Ice Making