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It is not needed to slowly load the car AC. Electric fans have eliminated any concern in this area.
Well, the electric radiator fan would speed up, however when the interior is ultra-hot I still want to start it on a lower moderate blower speed for awhile then kick it up where I want it to be. Maybe I'm being overly cautious...but tend to believe it performs better that way.

After my other excellent performing car A/C went out; evidently lost its charge; I'm just being extra careful with this one.
 
Well, the electric radiator fan would speed up, however when the interior is ultra-hot I still want to start it on a lower moderate blower speed for awhile then kick it up where I want it to be. Maybe I'm being overly cautious...but tend to believe it performs better that way.

After my other excellent performing car A/C went out; evidently lost its charge; I'm just being extra careful with this one.
Use max air setting to cool the car down. max air recircs just the air in the car. Normal setting brings in outside air.
 
I run recirc frequently. No reason to cool a lot of hot air.
 
You just hear the return air while in recirculating mode.
 
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Any semi-modern car disengages the A/C clutch at WOT, so if you are really racing around, it's constantly stating and stopping the compressor. Its designed to operate anywhere in the engines RPM range. That said, most new cars do not even have an A/C clutch anymore, and instead control refrigerant flow with a bypass/unloading valve on the compressor.
 
Out of curiosity I used my anemometer: with the blower set on Hi in both A/C modes; norm A/C was 264-fpm; Max A/C was 378-fpm.
So my Mercury appears to deliver more CFM set on Max A/C mode.

I believe you're correct concerning the major excess increase in the noise factor in Max mode.

I also tried rolling the back window open in Norm A/C mode, it didn't seem to make any difference to the velocity; so they must effectively deal with backpressure in Norm mode using outdoor air.
 
Often, "max A.C." is a configuration of dampers in the mixing box that forces the air out through a limited number of outlets.
 
The max AC mode bypasses the cowl intake. Less ductwork gives more airflow.
 
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The real question is how can an automotive AC go 100,000+ miles without a filter or evap cleaning?
 
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The real question is how can an automotive AC go 100,000+ miles without a filter or evap cleaning?
Wow; an on target comment; most auto drivers never think about those factors.
It should be a routine part of auto maintenance but I've never seen or heard anything in that respect.
 
I changed the cabin air filter on mine a few weeks ago... The old one was nasty! Kept putting it off and finally did it, after having the car for 150k miles, that filter was terrible. More air than ever now comes from the register/vent
 
The max AC mode bypasses the cowl intake. Less ductwork gives more airflow.
It's also a matter of static pressure. Most vehicles have relatively small, restrictive pressure relief vents (some don't have them at all). When on normal A/C, the outside air is blowing into the pressurized cabin. On recirc, the static pressure across the blower is much lower. Most of the time, the fan speed is no different in recirc, but the flow IS much higher due to static.
 
Crazifuzzy is correct, most newer vehicles cut the compressor out at w.o.t and its not only gm that cycles the clutch, it depends if the vehicle has a txv setup (all vehicles with front/rear A/c will have a txv) or if the vehicle is ccot (clutch cycling orifice tube)
 
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