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malalite

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Currently I have a house with a basement with 2 floors. The 2nd floor has its own separate 1.5 ton unit that is a Trane heat pump with a variable air speed handler. The other unit is a 2.5 ton heat pump from Trane with a matched variable speed air handler. The 2.5 ton compressor has died with 1 month prior to being 10 years from manufacture and about 9 and 1/2 years from install.

The 2.5 ton unit is why I need your help. I have had problems with it since the beginning 3 years from purchase the fan motor died and was replaced under warranty. Then 2 years later it was replaced again when the fan motor died also under warranty. 3 years later it died again the fan motor at my cost. This time when it died I thought for sure it was the fan motor. The HVAC dealer said nope the compressor was going to ground and has to be replaced.

I have not only had the mechanical problems this unit has continually lost ground in both the winter and summer since I purchased it new 10 years ago. If the set point was 72 in the summer it could easily go to 77 to 80 on a 90 degree day. If it was cold outside around 35 it would go down to 68 if I had it set to 72 and then strip heat would come on to fix the problems. We have always had 1 room too hot or warm pretty much year round. Due to this my unit is running all the time and my heating bill could easily hit 700 dollars plus and my cooling bills the low 300's.

So with this information my first HVAC dealer comes in to give me prices and solutions. He says my 8x10 intake on the air handler is too small and so is my output ducting which is causing a bottle neck. He said since the basement is finished unless I want him to tear apart my basement the fix is to stay with a variable speed furnace. He could then overclock the fan speed with dip switches and make it try to push more air and that would fix the comfort level and reduce bills. To do this he would hard recommend a Trane XV95 (TUH2B060A9V3VA) and a coil (4TXCB004CC3HCA). The only thing to play with is the heat pump he recommended the XL16i or HB14. He said he did not like the XL20i because it has too many parts to break. He said he did not like the XR15 and does not carry it due to no bang for the extra bucks. He did measure my house for Louisville Kentucky area and came up with 1500 sq on the first floor and 1450 on the basement. He said I was barely 24000 BTU which is 2.5 ton. Though I did not catch how much on the heating I believe it was 60,000?

The second guy came out and then put a meter or something on the air handler and counted the flashes. Said while it said my unit was set to 1125CFM I was only getting around 800 max. He also said my ducts were fine since it was all sheet metal and straight short runs. He said my problem is that I have 14 ducts on my system and I want a goal of around 100 CFM per duct. That my 2.5 ton unit only gives about 1000 ideally. He also said my compressor went to ground because it was improperly installed and most likely they did not vacuum all the water out of the line causing sludge to build up that eat the compressor from the inside. This extra stuff going on could have caused more load and the fan fail like it did. He said the solution was to have a properly installed unit that was 2.5 tons. He recommended staying away from dual fuel as it costs a lot more for the system. He recommended staying with heat pump and air handler like I have now with strip heat as backup.

He will give me the costs on Monday but the systems he recommends are the XR15 as it is minimally more and a better unit overall. And he is in love with the XL20i as it has two compressors and would dehumidify the air great which is what I need. (I have not mentioned it but I have an extremely large in wall saltwater fish tank in the basement.) He said the 2 compressor model is the way to go to save money as it will only suck half the power. I did ask about my complaint about not feeling any air from the vents. He said he does not think I need it but he could set the air speeds higher. I asked if he could put a bigger blower in the basement by say 1/2 ton so I can get more air flow? He said he would if I told him too.

I know this is a lot but I appreciate anyone who took the time to read and respond. I did call Trane corporate and they said they like stuff each one said but to call more dealers to get more opinions. While I have called 2 more I figured I would see if I could get a consensus on how to move forward?
 
IMHO you have a ductwork issue causing high ESP in your system, this is what is killing your VS modules. In other words FIX YOUR DUCT SYSTEM. Have someone with a manometer check your TESP on the duct system, that will tell if your duct system is adequate or not. Air flow is capacity, fix it and you will likely solve your temp issues. And no putting a bigger blower on a poor duct system is not the answer!:whistle:
 
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1- 8x10 return grille is no where close to enough for 2.5 tons. That's probably what caused the compressor to fail due to flooding back liquid from improper airflow. A static pressure measurement will tell the tale. Even variable speed blower motors can only help so much with restricted duct and it makes them wear down quicker and use more power. Need to get that 8x10 to ~20x25 with 16" round duct.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I checked my notes and that is what he told me. Though I just went and measured because he said it was sized for 2 tons not 2.5.
After measuring the intake going down is 8x22 inches. this is T'd into the middle of a 18" wide and 8" tall duct going both ways.
The output side is a 16" x 18" it is hard to access the length and width of what is is T'ing into but I can get that if I can.

Thanks for the info above what are the following please?
ESP ?
TESP?
Who would be able to do these tests as neither of the first two guys mentioned it, would they be able to do it?
The second guy glanced at it, said no numbers but did say I was fine and that my design was so simple with no real bends and elbows I don't have to worry about reducing or other stuff. He said the room that was hot needs another supply but very hard to do since it is going against the joists in the basement and it is now a finished ceiling. Though if that is what it takes then so be it.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I could not edit my orginal post so sorry I had not measured myself. I had just taken notes during the visits from the dealers. If you need any other measurements let me know.
 
External static pressure and total external static pressure. Basically the blood pressure of your duct system. To high and bad things happen. Things like bad VS modules and compressors, sound familiar. Any good tech should have a manometer and know how to use it.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks I will try and get than answer Monday or Tuesday.
What about the gas furnace vs strip heat argument. Also the XL20i vs XL16i or the lower end options. Is it worth the money to go all out?
 
Has anyone checked your system for duct leakage with a duct blaster? Have you ever considered having an energy audit done on your home? Before making A/C upgrades you might want to consider both of these! Along with a REAL Manual J load done.
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
I think we are on the right track. A third guy came out today and looked at the ducts and said they are well sized and could handle 3.5 tons if they had too.
He said my static pressure was .1 if I remember correctly and said that was great for the main trunk line.
He did this with my filter removed. While I keep my filter clean an AprilAire 5000, he said that was causing my static pressure.
He explained it by saying the humidifier that a previous hvac dealer installed was putting humidity in the filter causing the dust and stuff to get damp like mud. Also like mud made the static pressure shoot up. He said you should aways put the humidifier on the supply side going to the registers.
He said that is probably why I never got humidity even with such a huge humidifier. He reccomends moving everything over and fixing the duct work where the aprilaire is so that the air flow is less restrictive going into the air handler.
He also wants to go 3 ton up from my 2.5 only because he is reccomending a XL20i. He will use a can of flush that will clear my lines of any sludge so he can reuse the copper lines for the refridgerents.
Does this sound like I got the true answers yet?
 
Whoever said they don't like the XL20i is because they don't understand the technology, stay away from them. I personally have had better experience with the XL20i than the XL16i. I also don't like that somebody said the XR15 was not enough bang for your buck. In my area Portland Oregon, the XR15 is the BEST bang for your buck heat pump option, the XL16i and XL20i will add more comfort and be quieter but will provide typically a longer payback. The XL20i will do a better job dehumidifying and is in my opinion the best system Trane makes.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Everyone thanks for the help. They are doing some redesign of the ducts on the U which includes the airfilter and the air handler.
I went with the reccomendation from SkyHeating. I have made the decision to try the XL20i the Hyperion Air Handler and the XL950 thermostat. My dealer promises me that I won't be dissapointed.
It will be installed tomorrow.
 
Everyone thanks for the help. They are doing some redesign of the ducts on the U which includes the airfilter and the air handler.
I went with the reccomendation from SkyHeating. I have made the decision to try the XL20i the Hyperion Air Handler and the XL950 thermostat. My dealer promises me that I won't be dissapointed.
It will be installed tomorrow.
Let us know how it goes, I will also promise you that you won't be disappointed!
 
I went with the reccomendation from SkyHeating. I have made the decision to try the XL20i the Hyperion Air Handler and the XL950 thermostat. My dealer promises me that I won't be dissapointed.
It will be installed tomorrow.
You will love the 20i!
 
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