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nsmcorns

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We are working on an Amana heat pump, model RHE48A20. On the air conditioner side, the pressures are correct for the ambient temps. However, on the heat side, the liquid pressure is extremely high (275-300 psi) and the low pressure is about 25 psi on a 70 degree day. It will run about 30 seconds, then will shut off. If you run it on electric heat for about 5 minutes and then switch it over to “heat” it will usually stay running. Does anyone have any experience with this in older heat pumps, especially Amana brand?

We handle Lennox and Rheem, we are reasonably comfortable with their newer lines of heat pumps, but this older off-brand (for us) heat pump is giving us fits and we are striking out trying to locate information/manuals online. We are in a sparsely populated area of the state and the homeowner has already struck out with another company who told him they couldn't figure it out and wouldn't keep sending out techs. We would hate to tell him he needs another system if it's just a defrost board, but hate to replace a board and find out that it wasn't the problem after all.
 
Sounds like your outdoor TXV or piston is restricted. Line temps would help. true suction before and after accumulator (if present), liquid, discharge and temp diffs across metering devices.
 
We are working on an Amana heat pump, model RHE48A20. On the air conditioner side, the pressures are correct for the ambient temps. However, on the heat side, the liquid pressure is extremely high (275-300 psi) and the low pressure is about 25 psi on a 70 degree day. It will run about 30 seconds, then will shut off .
I think this unit has a separate check valve before the TXV.

It might be bad, and not allowing refrigerant to flow into the TXV.
 
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If you run it on electric heat for about 5 minutes and then switch it over to “heat” it will usually stay running. Does anyone have any experience with this in older heat pumps, especially Amana brand?

that's what gets confusing. To me i would think if there is a restriction in the heat cycle you would see it be it em heat ran for 10 mins or 10 hrs then switched over. Or turned straight to heat
 
I can't imagine the electric heat having any bearing on the refrigerant circuit. I would guess that it is coincidental. Again, line temps are helpful but it sounds like you have a restriction be it in you outdoor metering device or in a check valve that is inline to the metering device. Again temp differences across these components would be helpful. Frost might be visible at the restriction. Without any real numbers to go by except pressures I still think it sounds like a liquid line restriction - could be a drier, check valve or metering device.
 
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