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Leak detection methods

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11K views 28 replies 26 participants last post by  ericnyc  
R
#1 ·
Dear fellows:

Of all the different kinds of leak detectors in the market, which one do you consider to be the best for everyday usage: torch type, electronic sniffer type or ultrasonic ? Also, for low ambient temperatures (freezer rooms), is there any kind of bubble type leak detection solution ?

Thank you!!!
 
M
#2 ·
i like the torch type (one with sniffer tube) and bubbles for locating tiny leaks. (im a bit old school:))

does anyone still use those ultraviolet dyes? you used to inject the dye in the system and use an ultraviolet light to find the leak ( i always thought the where usless myself as usually you smeared the dye everywhere and there where leaks everywhere:eek: )
 
G
#4 ·
Nothing wrong with the dyes other than being messy. In some cases that is about your only option for a slow leak and if your line set is long and ran in hard to get locations (above a ceiling, inside a chase, etc.). I had one case where it was ran up a chase to the roof above the 5th floor and above the ceiling in a mechanical room and a laundry room at a hotel. I found it above the ceiling tile in the laundry room. It works where others fail. If you can't find a leak with it then you don't have a leak.
 
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P
#5 ·
After a preliminary visual inspection, I’ll go into a suspect area with a leak detector and Big Blue “Micro Leak” or Hydro-Balance “Leak Seek” spray solution. Big Blue makes a spray that can also be used on low temp coils without freezing called “Super Blue”. I get it from Johnstone Supply.
Lately, I’ve been using a Robinair 16600 electronic leak detector on smaller systems with good results. I don’t know how long it will last, but for price I got it at [$107.00 delivered], I can’t really complain.
I have the Tracerline Universal AC/R UV dye kit with the rechargeable Optimax UV blue light, which I will use on older equipment, only as an absolute last resort. Not my favorite thing to do but sometimes little or no choice. I will look the system over with the UV light before considering adding dye just incase someone else already had and didn’t leave a decal on the equipment indicating it. I keep lots of “Glo-Away” UV dye spray cleaner on hand to clean up after myself or someone else that has been there before me and didn’t bother to put a rag over the fittings before removing their hoses. Tracerline says their Universal type UV dye is safe for use with all refrigerants/blends and with POE, AB, PAG or MO. Even so, I won’t use it on equipment that is still under manufactures warranty.
:)
 
L
#7 ·
A lot of manufacturers consider the warranty on their equipment void if you use dye. I look for oil, use snoop then superblue, then my d-tek. I break out the halide torch when nothing else works. That said, I've never had to look at anything I haven't been able to get right up on and look. The one time I had a problem was while leak checking a line set buried in concrete. We actually had to cut the lines and pressure test it.
 
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B
#11 ·
I use my Amprobe

I use my Amprobe Ultra-sonic meter to find most of my leaks. Works extremely well, I like the fact I don't get false positives. I also don't mind using the ultra-violet dye sticks. Sure it can be a bit messy, but with the clean up spray from johnstone, clean up is a snap! I agree with Glenn, if you can not find it with dye, you don't have a leak. Dye will find any and all leaks.
 
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D
#22 ·
badbillr said:
I use my Amprobe Ultra-sonic meter to find most of my leaks. Works extremely well, I like the fact I don't get false positives. I also don't mind using the ultra-violet dye sticks. Sure it can be a bit messy, but with the clean up spray from johnstone, clean up is a snap! I agree with Glenn, if you can not find it with dye, you don't have a leak. Dye will find any and all leaks.
Click to expand...

Unless he pulls a vacuum on the system BEFORE leak checking, a small leak can actually be hidden from the atmospheric pressure being pulled into the system. But I've never used dye before so I don't know whether or not you can introduce it to the system while in a vacuum, I'm guessing no. And Big Blue has found all my leaks!
 
H
#12 ·
GE 110 volt plug in

I like the electronic ge leak detector. It is expensive but it is extremely accurate. I have polled over 50 apprentices and they say the D-tec is as reliable. I do not like dyes in the system. I also think if you have a contract on the equipment cleaning it with varsol and finding oil when you return during a p.m. is a good indicator. Check the high side while the system is running and the low side when the system is equallized (systems without pumpdown)
 
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B
#15 ·
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#16 ·
Ultra-sonic

The Amprobe ultra-sonic and some of the other brands do an excellent job on hard to find leaks. they can detect the high frequency sound given off by the leak from several feet away...then you can home in on them.
they also work great on pneumatic leaks from the floor of a plant just walking along aiming into the ceiling where many of the air lines are run.
I use the soap for many suspected leaks, torch for seals on open drive compressors and suspected tube leaks, corks/plugs for tubes also, the electronic GE or Yokinawa (sp) is a very good refrigerant specific detector, but not so good on the roof in the wind... lol

Also try the ultra-sonic on electrical contactors or breakers. It picks up the high frequency noise given off by a bad connection.
 
B
#17 ·
did I also mention...

did I also mention...I have also used it to find leaks in my truck and car tires. also have used it to find water leaks inside of sheetrocked walls!! very versatile. warning- do not get the ultra-sonic made by d-tek! I had mis-placed my Amprobe and needed a meter for a job. so I decided I would try the d-tek model. couldn't find the leak. I found my Amprobe the next day hiding in a tool bag I rarely get in to. went back to the job site and found the leak right away! took out the d-tek and tried it over the spot I found, and still, it was not able to detect it. I took it back to Johnstone supply and they took it back with no questions. the counter salesman "Tony" knows just how much I like my Amprobe model. he had no trouble believing me when I said the d-tek was useless compared to my Amprobe.
 
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D
#18 ·
Believe it or not, but Grease Lightning works great when you're trying to pinpoint that leak inside a coil. Once you get the general area using conventional methods, slowly spray a solid stream into the coil and give it a few seconds and presto...a beautiful bubble trail leading right to the spot!
As an added bonus, the spilled leftovers help clean up the oil mess too! ;)
 
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T
#19 ·
Pink bubbles from barsco is rated for below feezing, for that purpose. Adding UV dye is a tad lazy, but probably cost-effective versus the labor-rates. Larger the system, more the leaks, UV dye is easier to justify. Unless you replace the compressor, UV dye should stay in the system and be a long-term solution.
 
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#21 ·
I usually reach for the sniffer first, but I'm a big fan of the Big Blu bubble soap too. I find 99 % of leaks with these two.

Some times you just can't find it and that's when the UV dye comes into play.

True, it's messy, although the newer system with the injector syrenge is a vast improvement over the stupid tube that hooks into the manifold hoses. It's also true that it may void some warranties, but a system that chronicly leaks is pretty much useless anyway unless somebody can fix it.
 
#23 ·
First, look for oil spots and check there.

Pull wire off blower motor and run in heat (heat pumps)for a few seconds. This runs up pressure makes leak "bigger" and shows faster.

Pull wire off condensor fan and run in "cool" for a few seconds. Scan for leaks. Soap bubbles to pin point.


Lately, my evap coils have been porous, so can't really pinpoint leaks. Had a leaky schraeder cap yesterday, though.
 
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R
#24 ·
Mainly, I use an H10 and bubble juice (big blue, or whatever). The only problem I've ever had is that an H10 can be fooled by chlorine bleach and other halogens. The other method I use is crude: I look for refrigerant oil. If there's oil, there's a leak.

Regards,
Rotorbar
 
S
#28 ·
leaks or us

big blue and D-teck electronic leak detector works for me. I look for oil first, then pull out the D-teck, followed with Big Blue. Works 90 % of the time. Had other leak detectors over the last 17 years. Nothing beats a D-teck. STay a way from anythink make by Tif. Had two and never reliabe.
 
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