I'm 41 hoping to live 'till atleast 80 and never move out of our present house. OK that might be a stretch but one can only hope. My wife could have an impact on both of those thoughts.
How efficiant of a boiler should I go with?
xrdirthead
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I'm 41 hoping to live 'till atleast 80 and never move out of our present house. OK that might be a stretch but one can only hope. My wife could have an impact on both of those thoughts.
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Water
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What temperature do you run you present boiler at. Do you currently have outdoor reset? What is the hottest temp you have to run the boiler on the coldest day to efficiently heat the house?
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What kind of radiation do you have, how is the heat delivered to the home?
What kind of fuel would the new boiler be using?
What is the lowest outdoor temperature you experience during the normal winter?
What is your highest fuel bill during the winter now? hint: spell out the amount so it won't get edited
Do you set the thermostat down for hours at a time now?
Is the system you have zone? multiple thermostats, zone valves, pumps
What kind of fuel would the new boiler be using?
What is the lowest outdoor temperature you experience during the normal winter?
What is your highest fuel bill during the winter now? hint: spell out the amount so it won't get edited
Do you set the thermostat down for hours at a time now?
Is the system you have zone? multiple thermostats, zone valves, pumps
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I have baseboard heat but will be adding additions to my home that will use radiant heat. Slab on grade construction. House is a Ranch with finished basement.
Will be using Natural Gas.
I'm in Boston and we do see single digits like we are right now but they are few and far between.
We are on a budget with the gas company so I guess I would have to find out how much gas we use Dec-March.
We Never set the thermostat down. Someone is always home and still have young children to keep warm at night.
I know I have three zones but will be going to five with the additions.
Main floor, finished basement, small addition that will be torn off and replaced with large family room have thermostats.
Will be using Natural Gas.
I'm in Boston and we do see single digits like we are right now but they are few and far between.
We are on a budget with the gas company so I guess I would have to find out how much gas we use Dec-March.
We Never set the thermostat down. Someone is always home and still have young children to keep warm at night.
I know I have three zones but will be going to five with the additions.
Main floor, finished basement, small addition that will be torn off and replaced with large family room have thermostats.
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29 Posts
I have a 1983 Burnham P-206-W. Looks like it is running at just under 190 degrees.
DOE HTG CAP BTU/HR 135.000
Water BTU 118.300
Input BTU/HR 164.000
Gas supply pressure max 14
min 4.5
manifild pressure 3.5
max working pressure 30 psi
min relief valve 164
house is a Ranch 25x45 with finished basement
adding:
14x17 mudroom with radiant heat
27x40 garage with radiant heat
28x38 family room catherdral ceiling radiant heat
additions are all slab on grade.
DOE HTG CAP BTU/HR 135.000
Water BTU 118.300
Input BTU/HR 164.000
Gas supply pressure max 14
min 4.5
manifild pressure 3.5
max working pressure 30 psi
min relief valve 164
house is a Ranch 25x45 with finished basement
adding:
14x17 mudroom with radiant heat
27x40 garage with radiant heat
28x38 family room catherdral ceiling radiant heat
additions are all slab on grade.
You need to know
how many BTU's you'll need in total down the road. Two ways to to go:
Tradional cast iron gas boiler: 80% efficent, you should get 20-30 years out of it. Or pricer condensing/modulating 95% efficent boiler. These haven't been out for more then 10 years or so. No one can tell you if they'll vast 12 years or 20. Since the electronics in these things get obsolete fast and are expensive to replace, might make sense to get a new boiler after 15 years if anything major breaks.. With radiant, the mod/cons can handle low temp return water (under 130 degrees) better and can adjust output to the BTU load.
how many BTU's you'll need in total down the road. Two ways to to go:
Tradional cast iron gas boiler: 80% efficent, you should get 20-30 years out of it. Or pricer condensing/modulating 95% efficent boiler. These haven't been out for more then 10 years or so. No one can tell you if they'll vast 12 years or 20. Since the electronics in these things get obsolete fast and are expensive to replace, might make sense to get a new boiler after 15 years if anything major breaks.. With radiant, the mod/cons can handle low temp return water (under 130 degrees) better and can adjust output to the BTU load.
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I think I would like to "gamble" and hope the newer more efficiant models will hold up over time. I have to try and make my house as efficiant as possible with this renovation.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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I take it you now have no outdoor reset. Do you really need to run your boiler at 190?
With condensing boilers you get your highest efficiency and savings at the lowest temperatures. If you are planning on running the 190 degree water you might as well spend your money else where.
With the infloor you plan on adding you will have to install a mixing circuit,
you cannot run such hot water thru the infloor.
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I really don't know anything about boilers. The plumber must have set it that high.
I just think with a growing family spending more now will save me monthly for years to come. It seems I can go old school cast iron 80% and get 20 or 30 years out of it or roll the dice on new technology.
I just think with a growing family spending more now will save me monthly for years to come. It seems I can go old school cast iron 80% and get 20 or 30 years out of it or roll the dice on new technology.
Take a look at Burnham's new web site. They have some new mod con boilers. At least you know Burnham has a big distribution channel and parts will be available from many dealers. Big saving come from sizing the boiler to the load and only heating the water to the level you need. You should try to run your sysem no higher then 140 degrees, This is more then enough for radiant and making hot water. Your BB sections will probably need more when it's very cold, but for most of the winter, you'd be better off just running constant circulation at a lower water temp.
Viessmann Boilers
If your interested checkout Viessmann Boilers its a great product not only are they efficient but they burn really clean NOx < 27.9 ppm (air-free), CO < 9.2 ppm (air-free) here is the link:
http://www.viessmann-us.com/web/canada/ca_publish.nsf/Content/Gaskessel_ca_english
If your interested checkout Viessmann Boilers its a great product not only are they efficient but they burn really clean NOx < 27.9 ppm (air-free), CO < 9.2 ppm (air-free) here is the link:
http://www.viessmann-us.com/web/canada/ca_publish.nsf/Content/Gaskessel_ca_english
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I've heard good things about Buderus but everyones seems to mention they are pricey in the same breath. I do know you get what you pay for.
if you plan on staying there forever and i doubt energy prices will ever go lower i would go for the highest efficiency i could afford.
we put a weil maclein ultra in my fathers house 2 yrs ago doing bb, radiant and dhw. so far he is very happy with it.
we put a weil maclein ultra in my fathers house 2 yrs ago doing bb, radiant and dhw. so far he is very happy with it.
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