ok...here's the fiasco. i'm trying to work on this dinosaur in a rental property. the unit has been...let's say..."less than pampered." everything seems to ohm out ok and like voltage passes through everything ok, but the gas valve refuses to open when the t-stat is turned up. here's my dilemma: some of the specs are missing from the unit (you know the scene...the yellowed, cracking stickers have long since vanished, some of the metal tags have been thrown out because the renters didn't really need them anyway...) and i don't know the operating voltage for this unit. the primary input is 115 v of course (which it has), but the transformer's putting out 6.7 v. so...if this is enough voltage, the valve's bad. if not then the transformer's bad (i opened it and made sure the leads inside were getting 115). if i replace the transformer with the wrong voltage, i could burn out the solenoids in the valve. 18v? 24v? 6.7v? aaaargh!!! does anyone know the proper trans output for the model 80ua??
day & night model 80ua...antique!
john b
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ok...here's the fiasco. i'm trying to work on this dinosaur in a rental property. the unit has been...let's say..."less than pampered." everything seems to ohm out ok and like voltage passes through everything ok, but the gas valve refuses to open when the t-stat is turned up. here's my dilemma: some of the specs are missing from the unit (you know the scene...the yellowed, cracking stickers have long since vanished, some of the metal tags have been thrown out because the renters didn't really need them anyway...) and i don't know the operating voltage for this unit. the primary input is 115 v of course (which it has), but the transformer's putting out 6.7 v. so...if this is enough voltage, the valve's bad. if not then the transformer's bad (i opened it and made sure the leads inside were getting 115). if i replace the transformer with the wrong voltage, i could burn out the solenoids in the valve. 18v? 24v? 6.7v? aaaargh!!! does anyone know the proper trans output for the model 80ua??
thanks ac5096
unfortunately, i see no info on the valve as to what brand it may be. it's right in the open at eye level, but i find no info on the valve w/o removing it and being able to see the back or top. i have found parts for a model 80ua (couple hundred bucks apiece), but no specs as to the original brand or voltage supplied/required.
unfortunately, i see no info on the valve as to what brand it may be. it's right in the open at eye level, but i find no info on the valve w/o removing it and being able to see the back or top. i have found parts for a model 80ua (couple hundred bucks apiece), but no specs as to the original brand or voltage supplied/required.
Thats a heat motor valve and requires 24 volts. It uses a flame switch pilot, the pilot may be dirty and thats why you are showing low voltage, by pass the flame switch to see if it will energize the valve with full voltage. That's either an Essex or McCorkle valve as I recall
OOPS sorry 5096 I thought I you were the original poster, didn't mean to steel your thunder
wow...cool!
man, you don't know how much i appreciate your help! ok...i deal mainly with agricultural heaters, which operate on the same principles and very similar parts to residential. i've even replaced parts in the office heaters with barn heater parts, they're so close. that said, this valve i have resembles a robertshaw brand coil type water boiler valve. it has a box type body, electric solenoids on top for the pilot and to open the valve when the t-stat calls for heat, and a thermocouple push type knob (off-pilot-on). all applications for electric gas valves i deal with are 24 v a/c, but i'm just afraid of burning out the one in a residential just because i don't know how many volts it uses. but i'm with you-i think 6.7 is too low.
man, you don't know how much i appreciate your help! ok...i deal mainly with agricultural heaters, which operate on the same principles and very similar parts to residential. i've even replaced parts in the office heaters with barn heater parts, they're so close. that said, this valve i have resembles a robertshaw brand coil type water boiler valve. it has a box type body, electric solenoids on top for the pilot and to open the valve when the t-stat calls for heat, and a thermocouple push type knob (off-pilot-on). all applications for electric gas valves i deal with are 24 v a/c, but i'm just afraid of burning out the one in a residential just because i don't know how many volts it uses. but i'm with you-i think 6.7 is too low.
I think you're correct on the Essex.
Smack them pilot switches with a screwdriver handle and most of the time they'll fire off.:grin2:
May need a new pilot.Also make sure the tstat anticipator setting is above.80 amps.. Below that I have had problems with them short cycling.
These old furnaces work well with the WR 80 series digital stats.
Be xtra careful tapping on them. You don't want to break the mounting bracket. I know from experience.
These old furnaces work well with the WR 80 series digital stats.
Be xtra careful tapping on them. You don't want to break the mounting bracket. I know from experience.
t-stat...
t-stat definitely needs replaced. the unit worked several days after i lit it for the new tenants, but the case of the t-stat has been lost. i said the case has been lost. the case. lost. how do you even do that???????????? (don't ya just love how people treat your stuff?) so i will definitely take the advice on the t-stat model and go with it! (great side line!) but my transformer is where the line enters the cabinet...the 1st connection. so if the valve is a 24 v model, i think that the trans is the problem. it's sending 6.7 v to the t-stat, with the valve getting 6.7 v when t-stat turned up, and 3.1 v when it's turned down.
t-stat definitely needs replaced. the unit worked several days after i lit it for the new tenants, but the case of the t-stat has been lost. i said the case has been lost. the case. lost. how do you even do that???????????? (don't ya just love how people treat your stuff?) so i will definitely take the advice on the t-stat model and go with it! (great side line!) but my transformer is where the line enters the cabinet...the 1st connection. so if the valve is a 24 v model, i think that the trans is the problem. it's sending 6.7 v to the t-stat, with the valve getting 6.7 v when t-stat turned up, and 3.1 v when it's turned down.
Joined
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1,341 Posts
You should think about calling in a Pro. If the unit is that old, it may need replacing.
never give up. never surrender
being po white trash, it's easier to replace parts than the unit. i have had some helpful comments here, and met some
on another thread. i appreciate your input. thanks. but i really feel i can fix this with just a little technical info. gawd, i wish i had a manual!! hahahaha! probably written on papyrus in heiroglyph...
being po white trash, it's easier to replace parts than the unit. i have had some helpful comments here, and met some
on another thread. i appreciate your input. thanks. but i really feel i can fix this with just a little technical info. gawd, i wish i had a manual!! hahahaha! probably written on papyrus in heiroglyph...1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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