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cram10

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok, I want to apologize first, as this may be sort of long. I moved into my bi-level home 3 summers ago. First summer, a/c cooled perfectly without any problems. This year, I have notived that the a/c runs all day long, however, the temperature inside the home will not drop below 76. Cold air comes out of all the vents in the home. All vents are open. I had a tech. come out to take a look. He checked pressures, etc., and told me that my orifice was clogged because my compressor was starting to fail. He told me that when compressors start to go, oil and metal shards will break up and get into the lines. He stated that I needed a new outside unit, and told me he would flush the lines out with nitrogen, and pull a vacuum to suck anything out.

When he did this work, he showed me metal shards that were in the orifice. However, when he flushed the lines, no oil build-up or anything else came out. He also installed a new filter dryer on the liquid line. He informed me that everything would work well now. I am still having the same problem. A/c runs all day with cold air coming from the vents, but the house temp. will not drop below 76, and as a result, never cycles on/off. The house will cycle on /off at night, once it gets cooler outside. He also took the temps. of the return and supply air. He told me that I had splits of 20 degrees, and stated the pressures were all where they needed to be. He does not know why my house still is cooling during the day time when the sun is out. What could be the problem?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
If your compressor is failing it's not going to be working to capacity. Think of the compressor like your heart (preforms the same basic functions) if your heart started failing, but the dr said "everything should be fine as your BP does look normal atm" would you go out and try running a marathon and expect to do it in a reasonable amount of time?

Have the tech dbl check everything, pressures, SC, SH, TD, Static pressure, amp draws of the compressor. he should be able to come up with something.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I had the tech. come back out two times since he installed the new outside unit. He rechecked all pressures, etc. Took temps. of the return and supply air. He tells me eveyrthing is where it should be. I keep asking him about the evaporator coil, however, he says the coil is fine because it is not frozen and the pressures would indicate a problem. The coil is located inside the plenum. I have a split-system unit with no access door to the coil. The tech to take a look at the coil, but stated he would have to take apart some of the duct work to even gain access. He went into my attic, and stated everything looked good up in there (well insulated, etc). He came back out to my home yesterday and was going to replace the fixed orifice with a tXV. When he took the orifice off, he found apiece of rubber jammed in there. He stated that this was most likely the problem, and put the orifice back on. However, I am still having the same problem. Do i need to replace the evap. coil? I noticed the liquid line does not get warm or hot. It remains cool/room temp. when I touch it. Could this be a problem? ANy ideas?
 
Unfortunately, there is little advice we can give you with either being on the job or having a plethora of readings during system operation. There could be many issues, including but not limited to airflow problems, refrigerant circuit problems, charge problems. I'd recommend a thorough tune-up of the system, including cleaning of the indoor coil. While 20-degrees isn't an excessive drop across the indoor coil, it is on the high side for a modern unit. Most would operate around 17°F. This would lead me to lean toward a reduced airflow and partially plugged indoor coil would be a lead candidate as a cause. If the airflow is reduced, the system could be properly charged for a unit with reduced airflow. That would result in reduced capacity and longer run cycles. Returning the airflow to normal for the size of the equipment could then reveal an under charge of refrigerant. Naturally, a plugged air filter or reduced motor speed could also result in reduced airflow but I'm assuming that before the condenser was changed out the tech checked those things??

A simple check of the static pressures and referencing the appropriate fan curve for your air handler would reveal the airflow in CFM and could help to diagnose indoor coil condition.
 
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Discussion starter · #6 ·
yes, the air filter and motor speed was checked. The air coming out of all of my supply vents is around 52 degrees. How would I go about getting the evap. coil cleaned without any access? Should the liquid line be warm to the touch? It is certainly not warm or hot. Might there still be restrictions in the liquid line? How would I know if there is a restiction? Thanks again.
 
yes, the air filter and motor speed was checked. The air coming out of all of my supply vents is around 52 degrees. How would I go about getting the evap. coil cleaned without any access? Should the liquid line be warm to the touch? It is certainly not warm or hot. Might there still be restrictions in the liquid line? How would I know if there is a restiction? Thanks again.
Liquid line slightly warm to the touch is okay. As for access, a tech has to do what he has to do, up to and including removing the coil entirely from the unit to clean it. But again, a tech who knows how to use static pressure for trouble shooting would already know if there's a plugged coil. It's a matter of knowledge and tools.
 
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OK everyone seems to be missing the main question, where do you live and how hot is it during the day.

If it is like much of the country temps are over 100* during the day maintaining 76* indoors is not a problem. If it is only low 90's you have a problem.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
the tech tried swapping out the t stat. Same issue. i also bought a digital thermometer and it is reading the same temp. as my t stat. I live in New Jersey where it can get pretty hot and humid. I would say during the day in the summer, temps typically reach low to mid 90s. T stat is located in hallway out of sunlight and windows. I do have a humidifier, but it is turned off, and the bypass is closed. Any other suggestions as to what the problem may be? And even in high 80s, the temp wont drop below 76 degrees inside, and the unit will continue to run all day long. I have to keep my t stat at 77 just so it will cycle on and off.
 
the tech tried swapping out the t stat. Same issue. i also bought a digital thermometer and it is reading the same temp. as my t stat. I live in New Jersey where it can get pretty hot and humid. I would say during the day in the summer, temps typically reach low to mid 90s. T stat is located in hallway out of sunlight and windows. I do have a humidifier, but it is turned off, and the bypass is closed. Any other suggestions as to what the problem may be? And even in high 80s, the temp wont drop below 76 degrees inside, and the unit will continue to run all day long. I have to keep my t stat at 77 just so it will cycle on and off.
Hi cram10, i live in central jesery, i ahd the same issue you facing, system nonstop running, thermostat temperature wont drop what you wanted, i came up an idea, use a fan blow cool air from coolest area directly to the where the thermostat is, see it work or not on yours. the a/c technician suggested me to add return in each bedroom and relocate my return to higher surface, add another return in living room, so far this is my solution and hope this will give you an idea of your issue.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
As i mentioned, my home is a split level, 2 floors. i have one return on the lower level and one return on the upper level. My t stat is on the upper level, and the return is on the ceiling on the upper level. What I don't understand is that up until about 2 years ago, my ac unit cooled the house perfectly. This has just become a problem within the past two years. Something is not functioning properly in the system since it used to work.
 
13 seer condenser on a old evaporator? :grin2:
Agreed, if you choose to stay with this contractor, I'd insist they change out the evaporator (TXV if you prefer) with one matched to the new condenser before you let them just swap the metering device. Also insist the new evaporator have a access door.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
yes, my original condensed unit was a carrier 13 seer 3 ton. The tech replaced this with a thermal zone 13 seer 3 ton unit. he told me that that evaporator did not need to be changed because the seer rating and tonnage would still match up with the new condenser unit. would getting a new coil definite fix this issue I am having? would he unit cool better and more quickly? Should I insist on him replacing the coil? does the coil have to be a thermal zone coil or can I just get a new 13 seer 3 ton coil in any brand?
 
yes, my original condensed unit was a carrier 13 seer 3 ton. The tech replaced this with a thermal zone 13 seer 3 ton unit. he told me that that evaporator did not need to be changed because the seer rating and tonnage would still match up with the new condenser unit. would getting a new coil definite fix this issue I am having? would he unit cool better and more quickly? Should I insist on him replacing the coil? does the coil have to be a thermal zone coil or can I just get a new 13 seer 3 ton coil in any brand?
Suggesting replacing the coil is inane, there is no way for any of us to trouble shoot your problem without actually seeing the job.

You need to find a quality contractor that can figure out what the problem is.

I repeat not one person on this forum can determine your problem unless they actually come to your house. Anything you see on this forum will be pure speculation.

Finding a good contractor is never easy, call a few and interview them. See what kind of training they have what certifications, NATE, RSES, BPI, NCI. See if there is a contractor on this forum that is in your area.
 
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